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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been running 20 psi from a maxed out D1x Procharger for a while now. I’m on ethanol and meth/water injection. Car is a street driven toy not a daily. I want more power. I’m undecided if I will go with a bigger Procharger or switch to turbo, but leaning heavily towards a bigger head unit since it’s basically a bolt on at this point.
I’m running an Ls3 block and started thinking about the limits of the block itself. I know Pete Harrel runs about 1300 rwhp with a filled ls3 block.
I’m curious if a half filled block would still be streetable on ethanol and meth/water injection. I know people have done it running methanol as that keeps it cool.
Any input on a half filled block on the street?

Don’t really want to spend the money on an aftermarket aluminum block or put the weight of an lsx block on the nose.
 

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I really don't know for sure, but maybe this will help. It seems you are trying to get the best of both worlds. As in, you want to increase boost and still drive it to the track. I think you need to choose a direction. There are a number of crank girdles, valley girdles, etc to consider before block filling.

If you have these, then that is as far as the block may go. Half filling and expecting to drive in traffic won't work. I have no personal knowledge of this, but know others who do. I seems half baked (assed). Choose a direction. If trailering the car is not in the cards, forget about it.
 

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Guess it depends on how much you wonna try and make. A fancy crank and billit caps go along way, and/or a girdle. Bigger studs and going 6 bolt could help. Not sure how street meth is gonna be unless you only mean traveling within one tank.

Doing 1100hp on a build ls6, no reason larger blocks can't do more if built right. Not sure I'd go directing to filling them though, more of a race thing there. Seen ever block version aside from a ls1 do those numbers at some point at my freinds dyno. And I'd never do iron, I assume thats what you mean by lsx though it's offered in both. Car drives like complete shit since putting it in. Still trying to adjust the suspension, couldn't even get it back in storage as it bottomed out getting in. Thinking I need a higher spring rate and raising the coils isn't as effective anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looking for 1300ish rwhp through an auto. I'd like to go 4l80e over a th400 so I can have overdrive and lockup for street driving. I know an ls3 block "can" do it, but if it's not going to last I would rather sell a good ls3 short block with forged internals and put the money towards a more capable motor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I recall not tooo recently seeing a utube flic dealing with that subject .........

Gee
Currently working 14 hour days...care to link to the youtube video talking about half filled aluminum ls blocks being street driven? I'd like to see what they had to say about the subject.
 

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I don't really have anything to add as this is above my knowledge base and any past experience but I do find it fascinating that Pete Harrels name is getting bantered about more and more all over the internet.

Pretty cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't really have anything to add as this is above my knowledge base and any past experience but I do find it fascinating that Pete Harrels name is getting bantered about more and more all over the internet.

Pretty cool.
Because he’s a stud and one of the few of his caliber that share a lot of info.
 
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Currently working 14 hour days...care to link to the youtube video talking about half filled aluminum ls blocks being street driven? I'd like to see what they had to say about the subject.
Block rock wasnt brought up in the presentation if I recall correctly .
14 hour days brings nightmares to memory God bless you need all the help and rest You can get.

Gee
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Block rock wasnt brought up in the presentation if I recall correctly .
14 hour days brings nightmares to memory God bless you need all the help and rest You can get.

Gee
Should be temporary. I took a new position with a massive pay raise which involves lots of classes and office work. I'm still in the factory, but have an office now so I'd call it semi white collar. Growing up working on a farm, then construction when I was 18, and 25 years in the factory here it's a big change for me. I was doing 10 to 12 hour days of blue collar work so I'm loving this plus the extra money, but it's a different kind of fatigue with the long office hours.
 

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I think you are asking an awful lot of any production block to consistently and reliably make 1600fhp (approx. 1300whp) and at what RPM as that is certainly a factor. If staying PC you have added crank snout stresses to drive bigger head units.

Looks like Pete's LS3 block build has Darton sleeves, O-ringed block/heads, and 1/2" head studs. He has MUCH stronger cylinder barrels and structure in there besides the secret epoxy block fill. It really looks like they used the cast main caps which is interesting, but if it is or was working and showed no signs I get it. I'd have went billet just for added strength and the RPM they are turning. But that is really a damn stout setup.

You are wanting to take a good jump in reliable power and by the time you prep a factory block like above, you are into a LSX or Dart iron block w/o any fill which you start seeing benefits in stronger block metallurgy and oiling. I'm staring down the same barrel here for my drag-n-drive twin turbo build (the truck not GTO) as to which direction to go between a seriously prepped iron block or aftermarket.

Good video here though on it for those interested: Video: Building A New 1,200 Horsepower Turbo Engine For Beer Money
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The main point here is finding a way to avoid the weight of iron up front without going to the cost of an aluminum aftermarket block. A resleeved block is certainly an option that keeps the aluminum and is less cost than an aftermarket aluminum block.

I've got plenty of time to figure this out as I will probably continue to run my current combo for a while. I'd like to experiment with some bias ply's vs my current radials on my current combo as well as some other things before adding even more power.
 

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Well the iron blocks are only around 100 pounds more, I think the trade off for a more reliable block is worth the weight penalty. Especially if you’re gonna push that motor even harder. Plus filling an aluminum block just makes it weigh more anyway and takes away the potential for it to be street-able.
oh no, don't suggest that. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Iron blocks are the sucks. My car will not wheelie anymore.

Lord knows I've tried.

;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
100 lbs up front is no big deal until you are trying to squeeze every tenth out of the car on no prep. Cars with way better chassis than us and better weight distribution are still adding tons of weight to the rear and removing all the weight they can from the front. They aren't doing wheelies either because they know how to setup a suspension and tune. Different goals folks mid 5's or better in the 1/8th while still being able to drive it on the street isn't for everyone.
 
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