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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My WS6 Trans got in a hydroplane and the insurance wanted to TL it despite the interior/engine being intact, so I got a new GTO last week.

I figured I had read all the glitches on here but I missed the one on this damned anti-lockout. Went out to dinner with the wife and I hit lock before her door was closed, the stupid horns beeps blasted everyone in the place. I opened the door and the alarm went off? The passenger door level seemed to be stuck half way and wouldn't budge. I went inside, closed the doors, and tried the driver lock lever and it popped off in my hand!

After 5 minutes of fiddling with it and blasting people with horn I got the damn thing locked.

Next day I put the plastic level back on the driver's door and then that lock got jammed halfway. I took apart the door panel a then it started working again? I'm wondering if the metal rod is catching somehwere on the interior panel piece.

Anyways I looking for power lock wiring schematics to see if I can kill this anti-lockout function. I found some power lock switches and ordered them, I'll post pics when done. AllDataDIY doesn't have the 04's up yet, anyone got dealer/technician access to these?
 

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That Guy.
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It's all controlled by the BCM. There are no external relays or anything like that. If you really want, PM me and I will scan the schematic for you.

Kris
 

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2004 Torrid Red GTO
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dude Kris, that graphic you have is pretty messed up...gives me the creeps!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
G6 Builder said:
It's all controlled by the BCM. There are no external relays or anything like that. If you really want, PM me and I will scan the schematic for you.

Kris

Thanks. I figured that it was in the BCM but I'm looking for any tricks I can do with the door sensors.

The first hundle is keeping the locks from jamming if the lock button is pressed while the doors are open. The dealer is going to address this on monday along with the MPH light. Anyone know if the problem is that the doors 1) can't lock when open - or - 2) won't lock when open.

One idea I'm pondering is creating a circuit that watches the lock signal and if it is pressed while a door is open and the ignition is off and if this happens and both doors close to send the lock signal again doing the actual locking. It would need to cancel this if unlock is pressed or the ignition state changes. I could also do a horn beep for this to verify locking without turning or the horn signaling which does an annoyingly loud double horn beep on unlock.

Driving wise the car feels great, I put Predator on the kill the skip and optimize the tune. The GTO cornering feels much that my late Trans-Am which is why I got it. I can live with this glitches and work them myself.
 

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KBAS
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If anyone needs schematics scanned, let me know...
 

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Former GOATilicious SEG lover
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FYI. There is a mechanical block internal of the lock that will not allow the locking mechanism to lock until the lock itself is tripped by shutting the door. You can see this by:

Pushing in the door sensor while the door is open, and clicking lock on the key fob - it "clicks" but the lock will not go down.

Then, manually flip the actual lock (where the door locks) while the door is open, push in on the door sensor for that door, then click the key fob. it will not click *and* lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
miscreant said:
FYI. There is a mechanical block internal of the lock that will not allow the locking mechanism to lock until the lock itself is tripped by shutting the door. You can see this by:

Pushing in the door sensor while the door is open, and clicking lock on the key fob - it "clicks" but the lock will not go down.

Then, manually flip the actual lock (where the door locks) while the door is open, push in on the door sensor for that door, then click the key fob. it will not click *and* lock.
On my car the locks become jammed after this, I close the doors try to unlock, lock again, no luck. The dealer is looking at it today. I'll have to take the door apart later to study this. I'm hoping that GM didn't re-engineer the whole latch mechnism itself so it possible to close the door while locked and have the main latch work. My theory is the anti-lockout is a secondary piece in the latch that blocks the locking rod when not pushed in and thus removable.
 

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Snapper Head
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There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the problem you are experiencing in case you're interested... I just read it today. Let me know if you want the # so you can mention it to the dealer....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
mzdadoc said:
There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the problem you are experiencing in case you're interested... I just read it today. Let me know if you want the # so you can mention it to the dealer....
The dealer fixed the locks today, now the locks will not power for locking when the doors are open.
 

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Snapper Head
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Vandal said:
The dealer fixed the locks today, now the locks will not power for locking when the doors are open.

Sorry if it's me but what do you mean I don't understand.....
 

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Happened to me yesterday. I tried everythig to get that damn pass. side knob to go down. Finally, I started it up...put it in gear..back in park..and back in gear. The second time I put it in drive everything worked fine! Good luck all.
 

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Mod Hungry... Empty Wallet
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RedThunder said:
dude Kris, that graphic you have is pretty messed up...gives me the creeps!
Me too.... WTF is that? A slug with legs and teeth? Eeeeewwwwwww... and green to boot :barf:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
mzdadoc said:
Sorry if it's me but what do you mean I don't understand.....
Before taking my car into the dealer when either door was open and the lever on that door was pushed down, or pushing the lock button on the remote, would cause the power locks to attempt to lock the door, I could hear the actuators clicking when lock was pressed on the remote. If this happens, the lock on the door that was open would become stuck. The lever on the door would not budge at all, pressing unlock on the remove, closing the door, doing lock/unlock with the other door lever or the remote would not free it. Doing lock with the remote with both doors closed kept giving the multiple horn beeps and opening the door after this would set off the alarm as the stuck lock would be in an unlocked state. Eventually the lock would start working again after driving the car for awhile. Someone mentioned the actuators shutting down on an overload which may have been the case.

After getting the car back, the levers on the open doors will not move at all and pressing lock on the remote will not power either lock actuator while a door is open.
 

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Vandal said:
Before taking my car into the dealer when either door was open and the lever on that door was pushed down, or pushing the lock button on the remote, would cause the power locks to attempt to lock the door, I could hear the actuators clicking when lock was pressed on the remote. If this happens, the lock on the door that was open would become stuck. The lever on the door would not budge at all, pressing unlock on the remove, closing the door, doing lock/unlock with the other door lever or the remote would not free it. Doing lock with the remote with both doors closed kept giving the multiple horn beeps and opening the door after this would set off the alarm as the stuck lock would be in an unlocked state. Eventually the lock would start working again after driving the car for awhile. Someone mentioned the actuators shutting down on an overload which may have been the case.

After getting the car back, the levers on the open doors will not move at all and pressing lock on the remote will not power either lock actuator while a door is open.
Thanks for this post. This is exactly the behavior that my car has/did (dealer said NTF, CND). Can you tell me if your dealer followed the TSB, or did something else to resolve this?

--Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #16
RobertHammen said:
Thanks for this post. This is exactly the behavior that my car has/did (dealer said NTF, CND). Can you tell me if your dealer followed the TSB, or did something else to resolve this?

--Robert
My invoice only shows the fixing of the drivers lock rod guide, this is primarily because the plastic lever on my drivers side wouldn't stay attached. They didn't show any real detail on exactly what they did. It may be possible that the computer update that was done for the MPH light TSB changes the locking behavior.

Can you re-create the problem on your vehicle? Pushing the levers in or doing a lock with one door open should trip off the problem if it is still present.
 

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Vandal said:
Can you re-create the problem on your vehicle? Pushing the levers in or doing a lock with one door open should trip off the problem if it is still present.
Oh yes I can, and did, right in front of the service advisor. I was sitting in another GTO (just arrived), testing out the shift interlock noise. Showed him how I could hit the lock button on the remote with the doors open, but the actuators never went off/lock didn't get stuck.

Walked over to my car, unlocked the doors, opened the passenger door, hit the lock button on the remote, the actuators fired, and the rapid-honk/no-alarm sound went off.

Also brought him the printout of the TSB (thanks HotRodJoe!). So, we'll see. Car has to go back in now because it's pulling to the right (probably from them messing with the control arms/stabilizer bar in front) and needs an alignment. Hopefully this will be a one-dayer (had to reassemble the console around the shifter, which they didn't put back together correctly... *sigh*).

--Robert
 
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