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Gone but not forgotten
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Discussion Starter #1
But this time it's not a question.

I got a switch a wire harness from autoloc.com. I made a hole behind the T/C button for the switch. The console has some plastic that had to be removed because I was putting a wide switch in a place made for four small square ones, but it's not visible after installation. I ran some wires to the door locks. No more contortions to lock or unlock the doors.



The picture makes them look much more different than they actually are. The new switch is a more glossy black but almost - I say almost - factory. I couldn't find one that had the lock and unlock symbols on it so I just know that toward the driver is lock and toward the passenger is unlock.

Diggs
 

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Enjoy the trolls
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That's a great mod. Would you care to give a lot more details on how this is done? I would like to do this mod as well. Thanks.
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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Did you move your T/C button? mine is not in the same place as yours??? Maybe its an A4/M6 difference??
 

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There is a power lock switch on the drivers door.
 

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Feynman fan
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Diggs said:
No more contortions to lock or unlock the doors.
Really nice mod, Diggs! (Assuming that the colors match better IRL than in the photo...)

As far as the contortions issue goes, I wrestled with this for a while and then came up with a solution that works fairly well for me - although is is a damn sight less convenient that having a button on the console or on the doors.

When I get in, after I put the key in the slot but before I turn it, I always hit the lock button on the key. Having just hit the unlock button before getting in, the key is generally already in my hand in the right position to side in with the buttons facing me, which makes this a pretty natural movement. As soon as I turn the motor off, I hit the unlock button on the key. By always doing this, it quickly became an nearly unconscious, almost reflexive action.

My wife still hates not having her own button, especially since the knob on the door is behind her shoulder and is a painful twist for her.
 

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nikivee said:
There is? Where? Mine has no lock switch. The GTO power door locks work by pushing or pulling up on the door lock itself.
Thats the switch. Maybe not the most convenient thing but it beats reaching all the way across the car.
 

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Gone but not forgotten
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
More info...

I completely forgot to update this thread. Sorry, folks.

The wiring was a bit of a hassle. You have to get in behind the kick panel on the driver's side. That requires lifting the trim piece at the floor and removing the 4 torx screws so the trim piece can be lifted a bit, then taking out a couple of philips screws in the kick panel. After you get that out, you will see a couple of modules. above and behind them is the wiring harness that goes into the door. You have to get it out enough to get to a couple of wires.

The harness is connected to a piece that holds it to the side (metal part) of the kick panel. I tugged it and it popped off. Next is to get at the two specific wires you need to connect to.

There is a brown and red wire that sends the lock signal and a light green and yellow wire that sends the unlock signal. I stripped the insulation off (a little piece about 3/8") on each and took my wires heading to the switch and wrapped them around the stripped spot. I put a bit of solder on each and then wrapped them with some self-amalgamating tape. It's like electrical tape but really it's more like shrink wrap without needing the heat. Also, it wraps around a wire or connector without having to put it over the wire like shrink wrap.

Next up was routing the new wires to the switch and soldering the connections. The last thing is to take one more length of wire and run it from the switch to a good ground.

The switch I bought has 5 wires. Two are for the rocker on one side and two are for the other. The center wire is for the ground wire and when you press either side it makes a connection. I used the wires on the outside for this and just taped the other two up out of the way. The way it works is when the brown/red wire sees ground, it sends a lock signal. When the light green/yellow wire sees ground it sends an unlock signal.

This mod/upgrade does not override the built in anti-lockout stuff.

Diggs
 

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MAX-M6/LS1
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Thanks for the update. I like the mod you did.
I think I will try that also.
One more question, I want to change out the factory door speakers, do you know how to remove the door panels to get to the speakers?
 

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Gone but not forgotten
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Discussion Starter #13
Arrrgh...

Well, it seems I did not do enough testing on this. It works - when the car is not running. If the engine is on, the switch I installed is worthless. I'll have to do some more research before recommending this to anyone else.

Diggs
 

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Gone but not forgotten
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Discussion Starter #14
Yuk

04 LS1-MAN said:
One more question, I want to change out the factory door speakers, do you know how to remove the door panels to get to the speakers?
It's a pain in the ass. I broke the single press in thingy holding the triangular side window defroster vent. It's a special order to get another one. There is a cover piece in the door handle you have to pop out to get to a screw. After the door handle falls in your lap, there is another screw behind it. There is a piece in the lock knob (the red piece) you have to pop out to remove a screw to take the lock knob off. There are screws along the bottom and two on the outer edge, plus another one on the inner edge - you'll need a stubby phillips to get that one. Then the door panel lifts to remove. You have wires for the courtesy light and the remote mirror switch. Then you will see the speaker.

Good luck. Take an extra patience pill before you begin.

Diggs

P.S. I say it's a pain, but actually, I like to have screws better than lots of press-ins. The press-ins tend to break and have to be replaced whereas a screw just, well, screws.
 

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Diggs said:
Well, it seems I did not do enough testing on this. It works - when the car is not running. If the engine is on, the switch I installed is worthless. I'll have to do some more research before recommending this to anyone else.

Diggs
Looking throught the manul I found this: "NOTE: Central locking is inhibited while the ignition is switched on. "

I guess you found that out. If I see anything useful I'll let you know.
 

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Gone but not forgotten
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Discussion Starter #17
Weird

So how do the A4 cars work? When the car is put in gear, the doors lock.

Must do more research. Back to the CD...

Diggs
 

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****
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Locks

Diggs said:
So how do the A4 cars work? When the car is put in gear, the doors lock.

Must do more research. Back to the CD...

Diggs
When I put mine (A4) in gear they lock, in Park they unlock. It must be some sort of bypass. See about hooking up there, then you would only have a very short distance for wiring. :banghead:
 

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Gone but not forgotten
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Discussion Starter #19
More info...

Here is what I have found.

If the key is turned to accessory or run, the new switch will not lock the doors. However, if you use the old "elbow nudge" on the driver's lock or the passenger's lock, both doors lock. The switch DOES unlock both doors whether the engine is running or not. It's not exactly what I was shooting for, but this will do until I figure out the proper wire to tap.

Diggs
 

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Diggs said:
Here is what I have found.

If the key is turned to accessory or run, the new switch will not lock the doors. However, if you use the old "elbow nudge" on the driver's lock or the passenger's lock, both doors lock. The switch DOES unlock both doors whether the engine is running or not. It's not exactly what I was shooting for, but this will do until I figure out the proper wire to tap.

Diggs
I think you need to go to the relays to do this right. These cd's are hard to search :sneaky:
 
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