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Discussion Starter #1
So I had to replace front crank seal. No biggie, overlooked it after cam swap.
Well when I was putting harmonic balancer back on without thinking I put a thin layer of oil on the snout.
Am I going to have to redo the seal again, and ensure to keep the snout clean and dry, or will it be ok and I'm just thinking way too far into it?
Although it was easier than I was making it, was able to keep water pump and radiator in the car. Just got an install tool from vatozone, made it a hell of a lot easier than wood and hammer.
 

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I did the same and have not had any issues. Sometimes if you leave a seal dry it will roll when it comes in contact with metal. Maybe it depends on the mfg of the seal.?
 

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i don't think it's a big deal. for some reason that front seal design is a no brainer. you could probably poop on it and then put it back on and it will still seal.

the rear seal is the one you have to really get right.
 

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i don't think it's a big deal. for some reason that front seal design is a no brainer. you could probably poop on it and then put it back on and it will still seal.

the rear seal is the one you have to really get right.
they've redesigned the rear main seals, in that it's no longer a reverse-lip design. the last 2 i did were this style and MUCH easier to get on!
 

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I've always put a little oil on the crank snout. It won't hurt anything.

I've never had an LS balancer go on EASY even putting them in an oven at 200 degrees.
 

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they've redesigned the rear main seals, in that it's no longer a reverse-lip design. the last 2 i did were this style and MUCH easier to get on!
I've only ever messed with the new style. It isn't a pita per say but you still have to make sure to get it centered and rtv in certain spots on the bottom. Then if you messed up, trans comes off again.

The times i've done the front cover, i've basically just thrown it on, lol. I mean you should install the balancer and then torque the cover bolts down, to make sure the seal is centered, but it's still easier imho.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've always put a little oil on the crank snout. It won't hurt anything.

I've never had an LS balancer go on EASY even putting them in an oven at 200 degrees.
I used the install tool loaner from autozone, balancer was on in less than 5min. No hammering. Was able to keep water pump and radiator in the car while doing it
 

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Huh? Do you use an install tool with a bearing?

No bearing. It's a cheapo that uses a stud, 3 washers and large nut.

Don't get me wrong it's not impossible task lol. But it does take about 3 minutes of cranking on it with a ratchet.

I have never had an LS balancer you could pound on, nor would I.

That was also assembled with aftermarket balancers. Not replacing or re installing the factory balancers. Maybe the aftermarket ones are closer tolerance?
 

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My ATI's hub is an interference fit. That took effort.

I just put a stock balancer on the 5.3l i am messing with. Took a couple minutes tops. Install tool with a bearing. EzPz. I only needed to hold the crank from turning with my hand.
 

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I didn't lube my front seal I just replaced. I don't recall if it came with something on the lip already. But I heated my pulley up with a kerosene heater and even with it pinned, slid on with ease. Had the pulley off 4 times or so with the same seal and didn't have a problem being dry each time.
 

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The snout is on the crank.

The balancer is the balancer.

I lube the crank snout and the seal surface of the balancer.

Mick, why the hell would you have to take a balancer off 4 times?
 

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The snout is on the crank.

The balancer is the balancer.

I lube the crank snout and the seal surface of the balancer.

Mick, why the hell would you have to take a balancer off 4 times?
I think putting oil on the snout would actually make it harder to put on. You're taking up a thousandth or so of space with the oil film.

I mean you could just be "squeegee-ing" it off with the balancer, lol, but i wouldn't think that it helps any.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The snout is on the crank.

The balancer is the balancer.

I lube the crank snout and the seal surface of the balancer.

Mick, why the hell would you have to take a balancer off 4 times?
The seal surface of the balancer is what I meant to say where i put the film of oil.
 

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i never put oil on the crank snout. I warm the balancer up, install dry and I made a tool. I have some threaded rod, a big washer and a bearing for the thrust. I blue or red loctite (whichever I have on hand) the crank bolt and I put sealant on the washer face that contacts the pulley, make sure you get sealant on the bolt where the washer and bolt meet. Just think about how oil could escape......

I always lube the lip on the seal and the snout on the balancer....the part the seal rides on. Sealant (small amount, only when you are NOT replacing the oil pan)) across the contact area between the timing cover and oil pan with a little larger dollup of sealant where the cover, oil pan and block all meet up. I prefer hondabond for my sealant. If you are replacing the oil pan, only a dollup of sealant where the block, oil pan and timing cover meet. Never had an oil leak and I changed several cams.
 

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Anti-Seize inside the balancer to slide on the crank and a little oil or bearing guard on the outside that slides into the seal. Done it hundreds of times with no issue. We use a centering deal that we have that is aluminum and resembles the part of the balancer that goes over the crank and into the seal that is just big enough that there is no press. Then line up the bottom of the front cover as close to even as possible with the pan rail. Then torque the front cover bolts to 22 lbs and install the balancer with the Anti-Seize and lube like I said before and torque to 245 lbs with silicone under the head of the crank bolt and red Loc-tite on the threads.
 
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