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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
Holy crap. 1.5 60ft Dang. I think that pass would be in the 10’s. My old camaro ran 7.20 in the 1/8 at like 99mph. It ran 11.40 at 122 in the 1/4. I’d say 10.50 or so.


I'm going to lace up some 28's and see if that helps the 60 foot. Hoping a little more sidewall distortion will lay a bigger "shoe" down and help this fat pig of a car get its ass moving. lol.

Noticed something else in my HP Tuner logs. My throttle cable needs some adjusting. I'm only at 82%! I'm sure that plays with fueling and timing somehow.

One way or another this WILL be a 6.5 or faster car. I'm passively making a to do list for the coming winter (blech, so sick of snow already and its not even here yet!). I'm thinking a 200 shot of silly gas to maybe scoot it along a little better once were rolling a bit. Set it up as a progressive and have it come in once the two step (installation pending) cuts loose.

I dunno. I think the smarter thing for the time being is sorting out the traction issue so that I can get a real good feel for what the car is really capable of. I see/hear about all these guys laying serious hate on 285 wide drag radials. The cars have got to be lightened to make that work...least that is what my head is telling me at this point.

Need to get out the GO Pro or my DSLR camera and get some shutter speed on the launch video. Be nice to slow it down and see what exactly is happening.

We'll get there....
 

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Premium Member
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840 Posts
Noticed something else in my HP Tuner logs. My throttle cable needs some adjusting. I'm only at 82%! I'm sure that plays with fueling and timing somehow.
If you have the stock 04 traction control still in the car, that Bosch motor has a spring loaded head that is weaker than most aftermarket throttle body springs. Gets everyone that changes it. The extra cable pull is absorbed by that motor.
 

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1,545 Posts
Man I went back through the thread and couldn’t find any pics of the whole engine compartment. I’d really like to see what it looks like. From what I can tell it looks the battery is still in the front. It makes a very big difference moving it to the back. Also take the front sway bar off if you haven’t. That helps a good bit too. I haven’t done that on my gto yet so I have no idea how it will drive. Maybe some others can jump in and give their experiences. Those two things right there will help your 60ft.
 

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Torrid 06 M6
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589 Posts
What is your suspension set up?
 

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Torrid 06 M6
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589 Posts
Should have looked at your first post. Looks like:

Wilwood brake kit, all 4 corners. GR2 rotor upgrade
AFCO coil overs, rear
ForgeStar Wheels, 285 Michy pilot rubber-street driving
ForgeStar Wheels, Micky Thompson 305/35's for racing
G Force Mini Tubs
Battery relocation
Extreme Automatics 1500hp capable 4L80. Full manual valve body, trans brake
Circle D Flexplate, alloy
Circle D converter, 2400rpm stall
G Force Engineering/Strange Engineering alloy 9" 3rd member/rear end conversion 3:55 gears.
G Force Engineering 2500hp Outlaw axles
G Force Engineering 2500hp rated outer axle stubs
Notched lower control arms
4" alloy driveshaft
 

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Torrid 06 M6
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589 Posts
Why the 2400 converter? Not a criticism but curious.
 

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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #132
Man I went back through the thread and couldn’t find any pics of the whole engine compartment. I’d really like to see what it looks like. From what I can tell it looks the battery is still in the front. It makes a very big difference moving it to the back. Also take the front sway bar off if you haven’t. That helps a good bit too. I haven’t done that on my gto yet so I have no idea how it will drive. Maybe some others can jump in and give their experiences. Those two things right there will help your 60ft.

Battery got moved to the trunk 11 years ago buddy. If this was a track only car I'd yank the SB. Since I still drive it to work when the mood strikes, I'm keeping it. Not interested in having this thing act like dingy in 12' swells while motoring around town.
 

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Premium Member
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
Why the 2400 converter? Not a criticism but curious.

3.825 stroke and a blower that hits faster than lightening. Torque is not a problem. If anything, its quite the opposite. I was hoping for a softer hit and actually getting it to lug a little. That's not happening. I've solved it somewhat by pulling a pile of timing out of the "grunt" part of my timing table. It helps to some degree.


The better fix I think is 28's on 15's and a two step. Those are next.
 

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Premium Member
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
If you have the stock 04 traction control still in the car, that Bosch motor has a spring loaded head that is weaker than most aftermarket throttle body springs. Gets everyone that changes it. The extra cable pull is absorbed by that motor.
It's a full manual VB and I've not installed the rear speed sensors. Car has no idea what the car is doing.
 

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It's a full manual VB and I've not installed the rear speed sensors. Car has no idea what the car is doing.
I didn't mean if the system was working...just if the Bosch motor was installed and the throttle cables installed. Even if it's unplugged, the spring loaded cam on the Bosch motor sit absorbs the cable travel after a certain resistance.
 

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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #136
I didn't mean if the system was working...just if the Bosch motor was installed and the throttle cables installed. Even if it's unplugged, the spring loaded cam on the Bosch motor sit absorbs the cable travel after a certain resistance.

Naw, it's nothing that complicated. Just a cable adjustment issue. I need to make a better cable mount. Nothing came with the blower so it was kind of a goofy setup from the start.

I get a kitchen pass this morning. Going to run down to the shop and handle it.
 

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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #138
Whipped up this throttle cable bracket Sunday morning last week. Finally! Now the pedal feels right and I get all the onion when stabbing it WOT.

I played machinist cannibal on this. Had an old set of cheapo import vice parallels. Don't use em anymore. Stole one as I wanted the bracket piece to be from something hardened. The bling gold finish is just cheapo electro plate Ticn compliments of some China rice paddy. :) Steel is in the upper 50 Rockwell C scale so it shouldn't ever bend on me.

I don't have the actual blower modeled. Whipple refused to send me a Part/Step file. Fuggers.... So, the one I modeled ended up being too short in length. Once I realized this I didn't feel like going back and redoing it so I just went "old skewel" and got out the index cards and scissors. Made a template, then stained the piece with layout die and machined it on my Bridgeport and drum sander. Maybe this winter I'll get enough ambition to pull it off and coat it.

I'm working on a 2" spacer to get the blower's heat exchanger out of the tub. It shrouds the inboard ports pretty bad. Rumor has the Aussies have had some real good luck with picking it up and adding plenum volume below the screws. We'll see. I've got it modeled and have a request with an Ebay vendor who sells material. Would really like to make it from either 7050 or 7075 plate as that stuff is almost like mild steel in hardness so it machines really well. Holds a thread really well too which is always nice.

Winter will be soon upon us so I'll have plenty of time. My wife's Mini Cooper S is getting a full monte work over this winter as well. I'm hell bent to put her in the 400hp club with a blower motor. I think turbos are gay. (not really, but PD blowers are just so much more fun on the street)





 
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