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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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I just about pulled the trigger on one last night, but the most important thing I want to do in the near future is to work on the rear suspension which included dropping the cradle. Isn't the front mount of the rear cradle one of the lifting points for this system? Would be hard to drop the cradle if the mounting point is used to hold up the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just about pulled the trigger on one last night, but the most important thing I want to do in the near future is to work on the rear suspension which included dropping the cradle. Isn't the front mount of the rear cradle one of the lifting points for this system? Would be hard to drop the cradle if the mounting point is used to hold up the car.
I too am wondering about this. I guess we just use the pinch welds to do this? I hate doing that but I guess that's what you're supposed to do when you get a flat
 

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Took a look and the if using the pinchwelds to lift, there is plenty of room to work on the rear cradle. But to get the lift to also work with my classics, I had to also buy the extension trays. Got the wife to buy me the pinchweld blocks for my upcoming birthday at least.
 

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Took a look and the if using the pinchwelds to lift, there is plenty of room to work on the rear cradle. But to get the lift to also work with my classics, I had to also buy the extension trays. Got the wife to buy me the pinchweld blocks for my upcoming birthday at least.
Still gonna require laying on the ground to do a lot of work on car. I'm too old for that n a creeper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm gonna try to make some out of wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Use some really dense wood like oak. Something like pine will crack the first time you use it unless it is compressed against a flat surface.
I have access to pretty much anything. Hickory has the highest tensile strength, but I didn't know if I should use something somewhat soft. I'm thinking I'll cut a kerf in it that will fit snugly on the pinch weld, then on the other side cut some kind of provision in it that will conform to the jack stand. As long as I run the grain the right direction it just might stand up to the weight more than once lol
 

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My QJ arrived today. JFTDC are those left and right assemblies heavy as smurf. Probably not a bad thing as they are definitely sturdy, but geeze. Too damn cold to put it together, never got above 10 degrees today. Saturday is supposed to get into the 40s. Hopefully I can try it out on Saturday, looks like all the parts are there and the ATF I ordered to fill it up has also showed up so I'm ready to (NOT) rock and roll.
 

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I have some oak boards (2X4 and 4X4) I use with my jack, mostly for my wife's van to get the extra height and distribute the weight. Rich is right, I've cracked pine 2X4s before I got the oak boards.
 

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I got mine assembled today (it was finally above freezing today). For anyone else who has bought one recently, do yourself a favor and throw away the liquid thread sealer they include with the package and just use thread sealing Teflon tape. I got mine together without much issue but every single threaded connection on the hydraulic lines that required thread sealer leaked, a lot. Maybe I used the thread sealer wrong or maybe you are supposed to let it cure or something, but I used plenty and snugged the fittings well and every single one leaked. I had to pull them all apart, clean the threads and use Teflon tape. Dry as a bone after the Teflon tape. The instruction manual was no help, it still tells you how to apply the Teflon tape which they no longer include in the package.

The bleeding process is kind of messy, but once you get through all that, it works pretty well. I'm glad I bought the extensions too, this thing is barely long enough to lift my Honda, might be a bit short on the GTO without the extensions. I will most definitely need the extensions to lift my Chevelles. The pump motor is very quiet, didn't expect that but it is nice that it isn't noisy. It lifted my Honda smoothly, evenly and it only took about 30 seconds to go all the way to the top. It is also very stable, I couldn't budge the car even a fraction of an inch with it sitting at this height which was as high as it goes. Plenty of room to get under the car, much higher than I can typically get things with jack stands.

Also, they apparently no longer include a spare set of wheels in the package. Would have been nice to have a spare set.

Car Wheel Vehicle Tire Motor vehicle
 

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Okay, I poked around a bit and I found out that the liquid thread sealer is supposed to be left to cure for 24 hours. It would have been helpful if that had been mentioned in the manual, but I guess that one is on me for not using it right. Anyway, the tape was easy enough to use and worked great.

Also, it now is clear why these were on sale at Home Depot as the SLX has now been discontinued and has been replaced by the TL which has 3 inches more lift. Anyway, I'm not a big guy so the lift my lowly SLX provides (21 inches) is more than enough for me to get under the car and move around with ease and yet still be able to reach up to what I need to reach without straining.

On my Honda, it is lowered 20mm from stock, I could just barely get the shortest lift blocks in there with the lifts under the car. This will be an issue on GTO as it is even closer to the ground. I suppose I'll have to slightly lift the car with floor jacks just to get the QJ set up under the car. If I have to use the extensions under the GTO it will be even more of a pain as they add about an inch and a half to the height of the lift platforms. Oh well. I guess an easier solution would be to make some small platforms a couple inches thick which I could place in front of each wheel which I could then drive up on thus giving me room enough to get the lifts under the car.
 

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Put the Honda on the ground. Tip for moving forward, it is probably best to NOT have the parking brake on when lowering the car. Once the tires hit the ground they wouldn't budge and because of the fore and aft shift the lift does as it goes up and down it then required something to give. The tires had better grip so the lifts shifted along the garage floor a few inches. Probably no big deal, but just sort or creeped me out.

Anyway, after dropping the Honda I disconnected it all, still no leaks!, and got the truck and hauled it all up to the shop. I test fit it under the GTO and the Chevelle and it should work just fine for both. I think it will also work fine on the truck since it is a short box (thus shorter wheel base). Even though the truck is lowered a fair amount I might still need to get the truck stands they sell to really get the truck sufficiently far enough off the ground. You aren't supposed to use more than two lift blocks at a time so it would use half or more of its upward travel before it would even start to lift the truck. Oh well, an issue for another day.

I would have thrown them under the GTO and got it lifted but it was about 14 degrees out at the time and my toes were already turning numb and my brother was coming over to take me out to lunch for my birthday and to deliver my birthday present (which was a neon sign which got broken in shipping so bummer on that). It should warm up a bit by midweek so I should be able to get the GTO in the air then if I feel like it.
 
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