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Discussion Starter #1
:)

I've been driving compacts my whole life as is apparent in my sig. After much debate with myself, I'm definately going GTO in the next 6 months.

That being said, I don't know much about domestic RWD stuff. I understand the "rear end" is the box that connects the drive shaft to the rear wheels and all, but when the talk gets into diff covers and CVs I'm lost :eek2:

If I want to go SC and 3.91's ... is it safe to assume I'll need some rear end work? If so what and why (this is the noob part :) ) Also, I've been told, when you go with wider wheels or traction components, you're asking for trouble with this rear end. Does the GTO have a "10 bolt"? If so, why is a "12 bolt" better as I have read.

:wall:
 

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wheel hop tamer
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are you taking it to the strip and racing it every week or are you just having it for "fun"?
 

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Wooohooo
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Bin4ry said:
Daily driver
Then the rear end is one of that last things you'll need to do anyway. The stocker with the 3:46 gears can handle a aweful lot. Padre here has more then 500 crank hp putting right at 400 to the rear wheels. So I would concentrate and modding up the motor a little til you get the 400 mark or so before you start worry about gears and the rear end.
 

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wheel hop tamer
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Baaa said:
Then the rear end is one of that last things you'll need to do anyway. The stocker with the 3:46 gears can handle a aweful lot. Padre here has more then 500 crank hp putting right at 400 to the rear wheels. So I would concentrate and modding up the motor a little til you get the 400 mark or so before you start worry about gears and the rear end.
Looks like he got it... I wouldnt worry about the rear end on the street, you'll never hook up good enough with street tires on an un prepped surface to break it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
iroc_zo6 said:
Looks like he got it... I wouldnt worry about the rear end on the street, you'll never hook up good enough with street tires on an un prepped surface to break it.
then is changing the ratio just gonna be useless? Will the lack of traction negate the performance of 3.91's?
 

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The Anti Dyno Racer
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I wouldn't run 3.91s with forced induction, the stock 3.46 is a pretty good match for FI.
 

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Seriously?
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The GTO has a Dana rear, do not know if it is 10 or 12 bolt. It is also an Independent Rear Suspension, IRS, not a live axle. An IRS differs from a live axle in that with an IRS, the wheels articulate freely of one another as far as the suspension is concerned. It is a limited slip, meaning both wheels will spin. In an IRS setup, you have half shafts that connect to the pumpkin whereas in a live axle, you have axles that connect on either side that go thru the tubes of the rear and connect inside the dif, thus making it look like it is one whole assembly. Confused yet? :)

As far as what the others have mentioned, they are correct on that end. But you need to decide what route you wanna go with driveability and forced induction vs. NA before tackling the rear. Either way, it will be a huge difference driving a GTO as compared to a FWD.
 

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wheel hop tamer
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Doug as stated above, if you are planning on running the track every chance you get, then you need to address the weak spots. if you just go every now and then, i wouldnt worry about it, but, with drag radials on the track and the power you are making, all it takes is one time... and boom!

not to hijack the thread, but how is that slp head and cam package? drivability wise? still smooth accelerating? how does it compare to stock (noise, vibration, and harshness)? i assume it has a little bit more "tail wag" than the stock stuff. :eek2:
 
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