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110% Stock... :D
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did anyone else have any problems installing rear crossmember bushings? Getting everything was simple, putting the bushings in was not that bad. Though my problem is I can not get the hole for the main bolt to line up. On top of that the man bolt seems to take some muscle to get back in, the bolt is not stripped and it goes in straight... just wondering if that was normal?

Could they not be ligning up cuz my rear cradle was off from the factory? I can pry it enough to line them back in, though I'll have to wait for another set of hands to get the bolt in as well (at least I'm hoping).

Any suggestions would be great. No matter how easy the install something always goes wrong for me. Now I remember why I hate working on cars. Also yes I did just what the knowledge base instructions on this site said to do...
 

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Unknown said:
Did anyone else have any problems installing rear crossmember bushings? Getting everything was simple, putting the bushings in was not that bad. Though my problem is I can not get the hole for the main bolt to line up. On top of that the man bolt seems to take some muscle to get back in, the bolt is not stripped and it goes in straight... just wondering if that was normal?

Could they not be ligning up cuz my rear cradle was off from the factory? I can pry it enough to line them back in, though I'll have to wait for another set of hands to get the bolt in as well (at least I'm hoping).

Any suggestions would be great. No matter how easy the install something always goes wrong for me. Now I remember why I hate working on cars. Also yes I did just what the knowledge base instructions on this site said to do...
Did you do one at a time? It should pop right in. You are definately a candidate to get the rear cradle aligned! Remember, the bolts are 1 timers


mike
dms
 

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110% Stock... :D
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
dms said:
Did you do one at a time? It should pop right in. You are definately a candidate to get the rear cradle aligned! Remember, the bolts are 1 timers


mike
dms
Yep just started on one and a 30 mins later I had this problem. I tried for a hour to fix it till I got fed up. About the only thing I can think of maybe why it's not lining up right is cuz I used the rear diff to jack up the rear? As far as the bolts I was told by a few people that just reusing them with blue loctite would be fine. I don't have a problem spending the money for new ones... just waiting on them to get here (if not in stock) is the problem. I'll see if GM has new ones tomorrow in stock.
 

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110% Stock... :D
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was getting scared there for awhile. I got the passanger rear crossmemeber bushing done. Though I am nervous to start the other side :(. Oh well I'll get it done then take it for a drive. I really don't understand why it was having such troulbe lining up. Oh well, it was not fun but one side is done.

Then I'll wait to do the springs and radius rods tomorrow. If I get the rear diff inseft today I'll put that in today as well (maybe).
 

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My Passenger side went in like butter.
The driver side was a royal pain in my ass. I ended up having to use a come-a-long to get the bolt to line up. It was only off by a 1/16th or so - but that was enough to prevent the bolt from lining up.
Turns out these aftermarket bushings have a slightly smaller hole then the stocker.

.
 

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Bolt on Bandit
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I didnt have any trouble lining mine up. However, if you notice the bolts have loctite all over them. This makes them a real PITA to get back in there. You will think that its cross threaded but it really isnt. I think its from the blue loctite on the bolts, makes them hard to get out and hard to get back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I hope the other side goes in easier. At least now I know what to do if it a PITA. With the bigger bushings it seems it has raised the rear 1/4" (which would make sense)... unless they just need time to settle into place? Either way now I think I will order new rear coils. I got the drag coils (5/16" raise), so I think I will just order the 0" drop ones instead.

I also think that the loctite on the threads made the bolt a PITA to get in. Oh well, it's in and was not stripped :)
 

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Cell 719-491-1819
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Unknown said:
Well I hope the other side goes in easier. At least now I know what to do if it a PITA. With the bigger bushings it seems it has raised the rear 1/4" (which would make sense)... unless they just need time to settle into place? Either way now I think I will order new rear coils. I got the drag coils (5/16" raise), so I think I will just order the 0" drop ones instead.

I also think that the loctite on the threads made the bolt a PITA to get in. Oh well, it's in and was not stripped :)
It's a lot of prybar work on some cars to get them straight. The loctite on the bolts almost seems like siezetite some times. The hotter the bolts get the easier they turn. Just remember to get them torqued down in a bout 20 minutes or so. Any other help call me! Edit: the cradle alignment tool doesn't help at this point. Only right before you torque.
 

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Nope, didn't have any real issuse when installing mine. I too jacked up on the diff, then put on jack stands very near the bushing locations just forward for the install.

Note, I did the bushing, shocks, & springs all at the same time. Pull bushing out, then shock, then the spring comes out extra easy with all the play, reverse for install. Only problem I had with the main bushing bolts was backing them out. Whoa, they took some muslce to get through all that loctite. I used new bolts and mine when back together with no alignment issuse for either side. (So far!!)

Sounds like you might need the rear craddle alignment. This means more TTY bolts too!!
 

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Cell 719-491-1819
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Unknown said:
Just wondering does it matter what bolts you take out first. The three ones for the bracket or the main one? Or does it not matter?
It's easier the other way around, meaning when installing the bolts start with the center one, don't tighten, then install the bracket and remaining bolts and tighten the Xmember bolt.
 

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Not sure if it matters, but I backed out the three small bolts about half way, then broke the main free and backed completely out. Then tool off the three smaller bolts to drop the bracket (make sure your supporting crossmember with jack!!).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
TXRaider said:
Not sure if it matters, but I backed out the three small bolts about half way, then broke the main free and backed completely out. Then tool off the three smaller bolts to drop the bracket (make sure your supporting crossmember with jack!!).
That's what I did. The bolt on the driver side is way harder than the passanger side to get off, lunch break!

Rhett would it be suggest that I don't drive the car after the install? Should I wait get all the other things installed then straight to get an cradle and alignment done?
 

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Cell 719-491-1819
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Unknown said:
That's what I did. The bolt on the driver side is way harder than the passanger side to get off, lunch break!

Rhett would it be suggest that I don't drive the car after the install? Should I wait get all the other things installed then straight to get an cradle and alignment done?
Hate to say this. Get everything straight before you drive it. GM does a pisspoor job of alignment from the factory. IMHO just take it for a cruise and align it within the first hunsky.:gears: :turbonaug
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Rhett said:
Hate to say this. Get everything straight before you drive it. GM does a pisspoor job of alignment from the factory. IMHO just take it for a cruise and align it within the first hunsky.:gears: :turbonaug
I'll take it for a test drive. If it's driving like it always has been I'll probably just use it for tonight and tomorrow morning. Seeing as how I've been driving it this way since I first got it.

I'll also have to give you a ring on Monday so we can talk about ordering another set of rear springs (or front/rear). With how much the bushing raised the rear I don't need taller rear springs. I'm not sure if I want to stay with the 0" drop springs for the front and get those for the rear. Or if I should do the 3/8" front drop with the 1/2" rear drop. Either way they raised it as much as having 8-10PSI in the drag bags. It's my DD and I really liked the stock height.

On another note the driver said was CAKE! It took me 10 mins to do! I was like WTH is going on. The hardest part was getting the top busing to go into the bottom bushing. The main bolt lined right up and I could just screw it in like a hot knife though butter. Though the main bolt was a mother to get out.
 

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Cell 719-491-1819
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Unknown said:
I'll take it for a test drive. If it's driving like it always has been I'll probably just use it for tonight and tomorrow morning. Seeing as how I've been driving it this way since I first got it.

I'll also have to give you a ring on Monday so we can talk about ordering another set of rear springs (or front/rear). With how much the bushing raised the rear I don't need taller rear springs. I'm not sure if I want to stay with the 0" drop springs for the front and get those for the rear. Or if I should do the 3/8" front drop with the 1/2" rear drop. Either way they raised it as much as having 8-10PSI in the drag bags. It's my DD and I really liked the stock height.

On another note the driver said was CAKE! It took me 10 mins to do! I was like WTH is going on. The hardest part was getting the top busing to go into the bottom bushing. The main bolt lined right up and I could just screw it in like a hot knife though butter. Though the main bolt was a mother to get out.
O.K. Glad to hear one was easy. You sure can tell by this forum who does it and who talks about it.
 
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