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20 Posts
Now before I get reemed for making another rear end clunk post in the ocean of others, I have read through many of them and I feel like I have a good idea what it is, I'm just looking for some advice as to how to go about things.
I have replaced:
All this leaves is just rebuilding the differential itself. The clunk hasn't improved. If I don't slip the shit out of the clutch, it sounds like a bowling ball is rolling around in the trunk. If I occasionally make the noob mistake of not giving enough gas when letting out the clutch, and the car lurches a little bit, it sounds like that bowling ball is going to bust through the trunk or the gas tank. It's getting to the point where I don't even enjoy driving the car anymore. I've left it parked for weeks at a time just because I feel like I can't drive it how I'd like to without the risk of something breaking. And that "factory drivetrain slop" BS is clearly irrelevant as the sound didn't improve even with new axles and 1pc DS and full drivetrain bushing refresh.
While replacing the DS and axles, I checked the play of the stubs and pinion and everything felt pretty tight. Both stubs had no noticeable axial play, and very slight rotational play, and no axial play or rotational play in the pinion that I could notice, everything rotated smoothly. So I can't really tell where in the diff the clunk would be coming from?
Obviously my checks are nowhere near the stress test as the hundreds of hp and tq going through it, but at that point, do I just buy a full rebuild kit? And axle stubs?
This is the only kit that I can find that looks like it will do the job:
Also, is it really necessary to drop $500+ on just axle stubs? Why are they so expensive? I can't seem to find stock replacements and my car is mildly built, only putting down 373whp/356wtq, so these super expensive stubs that are rated 500+ hp seem overkill, but might be the only option?
Sorry for bugging you guys so much recently with my drivetrain issues, I really do try to do as much research as I can before making a post.
I have replaced:
- Engine mounts
- Trans mount with revshift insert
- Whiteline differential insert
- DSS 1pc driveshaft
- Both axles
- Torco fluid/modifier
All this leaves is just rebuilding the differential itself. The clunk hasn't improved. If I don't slip the shit out of the clutch, it sounds like a bowling ball is rolling around in the trunk. If I occasionally make the noob mistake of not giving enough gas when letting out the clutch, and the car lurches a little bit, it sounds like that bowling ball is going to bust through the trunk or the gas tank. It's getting to the point where I don't even enjoy driving the car anymore. I've left it parked for weeks at a time just because I feel like I can't drive it how I'd like to without the risk of something breaking. And that "factory drivetrain slop" BS is clearly irrelevant as the sound didn't improve even with new axles and 1pc DS and full drivetrain bushing refresh.
While replacing the DS and axles, I checked the play of the stubs and pinion and everything felt pretty tight. Both stubs had no noticeable axial play, and very slight rotational play, and no axial play or rotational play in the pinion that I could notice, everything rotated smoothly. So I can't really tell where in the diff the clunk would be coming from?
Obviously my checks are nowhere near the stress test as the hundreds of hp and tq going through it, but at that point, do I just buy a full rebuild kit? And axle stubs?
This is the only kit that I can find that looks like it will do the job:
Also, is it really necessary to drop $500+ on just axle stubs? Why are they so expensive? I can't seem to find stock replacements and my car is mildly built, only putting down 373whp/356wtq, so these super expensive stubs that are rated 500+ hp seem overkill, but might be the only option?
Sorry for bugging you guys so much recently with my drivetrain issues, I really do try to do as much research as I can before making a post.
