Remove the snap ring holding the old bearing with 11" long nose pliers.
Then remove the bearing. This is really on there, see post 2 above. (1/2 " bolts n nuts, a big piece of steel behind the bearing, 3 pieces of steel in front to pull it, and washers, etc) BE LIBERAL WITH YOUR PENETRANT OF CHOICE
This is a before pic of the setup
With the bearing out, sandpaper the seat to make sure it's clean. give it a wipe with you're favorite toxic organic solvent then proceed
I have gotten the step when I removed the axle/stub nut from the inner side. I was able to remover he c-ring from the outside, and the darn spindle won't come out. The back half is off with a little work but the fro t will not budge. Anya thoughtful advise, before I take the hole mount arm and bring it I to the shop? Ideally appreciate any help.
Steve
FUN PART, with the bearing in the freezer and torch in your right (or left if you're weird) hand. Heat the bearing seat, this should take about 5 10 minutes. Then throw the bearing in. Should be easy as cake.
Not so fun part...
Now to remove the inner race of the bearing from the stub. Place the stub in a vice. Heat the inner race as much as possible but be cautious (You will find out why shortly). we used an acetylene torch With a tap, hit the inner race around and around in the direction to remove it as much as possible. You are trying to get enough room to get the arms of
in there. Yeah once it's up a little you can use this puller to remove the inner race. THIS IS ON SUPER TIGHT. At least as tight as the bearing was on the seat.
***DISCLAIMER***WHEN TAPPING THE INNER RACE NOTE THAT YOU JUST PUT AN EXTREMELY HOT FLAME ON IT AND AS YOU TAP IT, CHIPS WILL FLY OFF, THEY WILL BE HOT. I cannot stress this as they would literally land on my skin and make me bleed immediately. it burned through the skin.
Once the inner race is removed, discard it and put the stub in the freezer.
To install stub, lightly grease the bearing and heat the bearing gently BE SURE NOT to heat the rubber gaskets and melt them, otherwise you can start over, this is not hard to do, but if you're an idiot I guess you'll melt the gaskets, in which case you'll have no idea until you drive the car and it's worse than before. We had a temperature gun that read temperature so we heated the bearing to ~200 which is definitely less than the heat generated from driving friction, so no worries. Then toss the stub back in.
Put the car back together in reverse and you should be good. She'll be quiet and you'll hear you exhaust again, this was such a good feeling and could easily be done in two days (16 hrs total most just waiting for things to chill, and grinding the socket)
I am having a big problem with getting the spline out. I got the axle nut off and the back half acme off with some work, but the frontq yoke or what ever you call it will not budge. I have been attacking the bearing integrity and hopping to find aforgiveness. Any thoughts on how to get the outside yoke out of the rear wheel bering
Tank
Steve
If anyone needs help/has questions with this my email is [email protected] please contact me there. I haven't owned the GTO since my fiance smashed it up St. Pattys 2011.
slide hammer
bearing puller attachments (looks like little t's on a swivel)
ball joint press
seal driving set (looks like a bunch of aluminum discs with a handle you can screw on and off)
bearing splitter set (may have to go to harbor freight) for getting the race off the seal.
slide hammer
bearing puller attachments (looks like little t's on a swivel)
ball joint press
seal driving set (looks like a bunch of aluminum discs with a handle you can screw on and off)
bearing splitter set (may have to go to harbor freight) for getting the race off the seal.
Locally i ordered the bearing and snap ring through advance auto. And they said i have to pay like $180 to rent the bearing puller tool and i get it reimbursed but sounds like i need even more tools so i cant 8imagine what the upfront cost would be to rent all the tools.
you use the discs from the bearing race and seal driver set in conjunction with the bearing press to "pop" the bearing free. if you just try using the slide hammer it won't budge.
once it pops and starts to move, the slide hammer in conjunction with the axle bearing remover will get it out.
you use the discs from the bearing race and seal driver set in conjunction with the bearing press to "pop" the bearing free. if you just try using the slide hammer it won't budge.
once it pops and starts to move, the slide hammer in conjunction with the axle bearing remover will get it out.
no, you won't be able to get the slide hammer to budge anything at first.
you use the bearing press to pop it loose so it will move. ideally you could use the bearing press to remove it alltogether, but there's just not enough room.
the reason you use the race driver set is because the bearing press and it's various cups/attachments won't fit by itself. you use a race driver disk in the back of the bearing and put the bearing press over it, have a cup on the outside, and proceed to crank away until the bearing starts to budge.
My 2004 a4 had bad rear wheel bearings, I bought a used rear control arm and avoided the issues of changing the bearing, just swapped it today and the other side is making some noise now.
Luckily my 2005 m6 shows no signs of bearing noise yet.
I'm going through this very process now as Im upgrading the entire rear end to the 9" G Force/Strange setup along with the heavier duty axle stubs and flanges.
Getting the old stuff out can suck, but it will suck less with a gear puller, bronze/brass mallet, and a big ball peen. If you look at the axle stub you'll notice it has a center drill feature. Used to support/locate the piece when it was made. You stick the geat puller stud in that and grab the inner side CV cup with the fingers. No beating or cussing. It'll pull the cup right out.
Now the axle. Lay the mallet (brass or bronze only!) against the stub, then smack the sh$t out of it with the ball peen. A few good wacks and your home free. If you have help, have them catch the hub. When it pops for good its going to fly off the car.
I did this last night. I loath wheel bearing stuff as its almost always a struggle. This wasn't bad at all.
i posted this last year. used a punch for the hub flange, didn't have any issues deforming or mushrooming anything. you can use a big brass punch if yur scurrd of that happening, though.
i posted this last year. used a punch for the hub flange, didn't have any issues deforming or mushrooming anything. you can use a big brass punch if yur scurrd of that happening, though.
Greetings guys; I've had my Beloved GuTOo for 13 years now! Sold my Hot Rod & hope to use some of the proceeds to accommodate The "Affliction" I can't leave it stock! So this year I'll lay in parts (?) & on it's 14th anniversary with me do a refresh - Modest Mod Thrash. That is if my Ole' body...
I don’t know if this is right section but I don’t think it’s necessarily off topic, but it does have to do with garage tech.
ive been looking around and I’ve noticed that car jacks have come a long way. And it got me thinking. What do you guys use??
I’m still using the the spare tire jack...
I am trying to install the 2006 steering wheel audio control buttons that light up on my 2005 GTO. I have the correct 2006 part , I believe, (#92507993), they plug in and all the buttons operate correctly, but they don't light up. Another GTO website has a thread that says you also have to...
I was wondering if it’s possible at all to use the ls3 ecu when swapping into a goat and make it work with the car? I’m also wondering if my JBA long tubes will bolt up to ls3 heads? Thanks for any help.
