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Big Blue
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2,168 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, I'm looking for some opinions on how to tackle this. I have the Pro Billet shifter and it's worn out. The poly in the rod that the knob attaches to separated and is in need of replacing and the plastic washers have play in them. I've found a source for some liquid poly and am going to attempt that repair myself just curious what durometer some of you guys suggest. They have 60, 80, 80 extra hard(?), and 94. The source said 60 is almost like rubber and suggested either 60 or 80.

As for the washers, I don't even know where to start on these. What material is best? What thickness do I need? What's the torque spec on the bolts that go through the washer? Any help would be appreciated.

I've attached pictures of the handle and links to my Dropbox for videos of the play because of the washers.

Front washer video.

Rear washer video.

 

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GR-RRR!
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5,500 Posts
As far as the handle is concerned, I'd check with JHP to see if you can just buy a new handle. Or just weld the parts together and skip the poly altogether. Or just glue the handle to the old poly and the old poly to the lower shaft. Just be sure to get the notch in the handle at the right angle or your knob will be crooked.
 

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Premium Member
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935 Posts
Have you gotten any of the bolts loose?
I bought one used and wanted to clean it up and grease it but couldn't get one bolt loose on that thing.
I emailed them several times and never got a response.
I ended up cleaning it the best I could, adding a little grease and it was fine but I think heat would've been the only way to get those free, maybe.
Hopefully yours aren't as bad.
 

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Big Blue
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2,168 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
JHP won't sell replacement parts at all for this and Pro Billet won't respond at all. So there's basically no support for something that was supposed to have a lifetime warranty. JHP told me $180 to repair the handle plus the cost of me shipping it to them. So I've ordered 80 durometer liquid poly for $35 and am going to fix it.

As for the washers, I haven't even tried removing those bolts yet but now you're scaring me. They better come out or else this shifter is trash. If they used Loctite, heat would help. I hate allen heads.
 

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Big Blue
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2,168 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yup those bolts aren't coming loose. Ugh
 

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Yup those bolts aren't coming loose. Ugh
Don't lose hope yet.
Those conical head bolts have a lot of surface area.
Couple that along with the thread locker and it seems like a losing proposition (not to mention the $hitty Allen heads).
Supposedly reverse drill bits work really well and sometimes extract the bolt without even using an extractor.
I'd try giving those a shot first.
If they don't work, try extractors.
If they don't work, drill them out.
Just make sure you stay away from the threads.

BTW, I tried heating up my GMM and couldn't get those bolts loose either.
I didn't try heat on the Billet because the nylon was in good shape and I didn't want to melt them.
 

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1 of 262
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10,330 Posts
I looked at the videos and think that a lot of that play can be taken out with a bronze bushing cup. Also, I'd buy two part epoxy and reassemble the handle.
 

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donde esta la biblioteca
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296 Posts
what did you use to heat it, how hot did you get it?? I use extra strength loc-tite and this stuff called 5200 all the time and always get the parts apart using heat.

if its a special size washer take it to the machine shop and tell them the deal and get some bronze or brass one made. will prob cost you a little more but it might be worth it. it might be worth it to get some extras made. if it happened to you im sure it will happen to others and you could sell them. if its a regular washer maybe try McMaster.com or something. looking on McMaster just now and they offer oil impregnated bronze. you'd still have to have it turned and machined for your washer but it would def take care of lubrication.
 

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Big Blue
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2,168 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I used a heat gun to heat it up while it was still attached to the trans in the car. I'm going to remove it and try it again. I have to be careful not to melt the black boots and washers but I got it hot enough to smell metal. The washers are plastic so if I ever get it apart I'm going to hit up my local Ace first and see if they have anything.

A bronze shifter cup wouldn't help at all as the play is in the shifter. However, I do have a new plastic cup on order since I'm going to be in there anyways.
 

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I used a heat gun to heat it up while it was still attached to the trans in the car. I'm going to remove it and try it again. I have to be careful not to melt the black boots and washers but I got it hot enough to smell metal. The washers are plastic so if I ever get it apart I'm going to hit up my local Ace first and see if they have anything.

A bronze shifter cup wouldn't help at all as the play is in the shifter. However, I do have a new plastic cup on order since I'm going to be in there anyways.
I'm thinking you're gonna need flame heat.
 

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1 of 40,757
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6,397 Posts
Unless its 2620 (650* thread locker) @ about 350 F degrees blue thread locker begins to break down. @ 500 F degrees red thread locker begins to break down. Problem is the aluminum housing draws heat away from the bolt requiring a lot of heat to get near 500 degrees. If it was mine, I'd put it in the oven at 350-400 degrees for an hour or so and use pot holders.

Having said that I haven't attempted to pull one of these shifters apart so I have no idea if there is anything else keeping you from getting it apart.

Edit: Loctite claims the full 500 degrees is necessary. Anytime I've had to breakdown loctite with heat it didn't take nearly as much heat as loctite says.
At 350-400 degrees there may be some threadlocker left on the bolt but at that point its so broken down it's not really doing anything anymore.
 

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Big Blue
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2,168 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So by looking at how this shifter works, I think the bolts that go through the part that attaches to the handle and the part that attaches to the rod that goes into the transmission have some sort of bearing or bushing inside of them. So when you go into 1st, the rods lean forward and if you go into 2nd they lean backward, however, there is no movement/rotation in the bolts that go through them. I just wish I could see or knew what was going on in there before I drive a drill bit through it.

The oven is a good idea. I'd just have to find a source for new black boots as well as I'd have to cut those off prior to placing it in there. Any idea at what temp aluminum will begin to warp?
 

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1 of 40,757
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All those low temp parts would be an issue. Melting point of aluminum is just over 600 C which is about 1200 F degrees.

Any time I've had to breakdown loctite, red or blue - 350-400 degrees F in the oven did the trick.
 

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Big Blue
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2,168 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Still haven't attempted pulling apart the shifter yet but I got the liquid poly in and started the repair on the handle. Also had a lot of leftover poly so I filled a stock trans mount. 90% dried in 18 hours, 100% in 7 days.





 

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Still haven't attempted pulling apart the shifter yet but I got the liquid poly in and started the repair on the handle. Also had a lot of leftover poly so I filled a stock trans mount. 90% dried in 18 hours, 100% in 7 days.





Just for your info. I tried a tranny mount insert from Revshift. It slipped right in after jacking up the tailshaft to take off the pressure. Took it out a week later because it was too harsh and vibrated. Let us know how this works out.
 

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Big Blue
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2,168 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I currently have a stock trans mount filled with window weld. It has held up for 150K. I'd imagine this one would be the same just a bit stiffer.

Also, the handle turned out perfect.

 

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GR-RRR!
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I was not all that impressed with the window welded trans mount so I got a new trans mount and used the Revshift insert. I like that better. However, you really shouldn't do a trans mount improvement of any kind unless you also put in better engine mounts. I have the Hinson engine mounts.
 

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Big Blue
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2,168 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Are you still running the revshift insert? This mount I "made" should be roughly the same as that as they're both 80A. As for the engine mounts, I've run the Lovells motor mounts forever. I'm actually surprised they're still in such good condition.
 

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Premium Member
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I currently have a stock trans mount filled with window weld. It has held up for 150K. I'd imagine this one would be the same just a bit stiffer.

Also, the handle turned out perfect.

Am I the only one who thinks that picture just looks wrong? :nono:
 
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