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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
  • 1/21/19_88,426 miles
    Carrier bearing & guibos replaced
  • 1/23/19_88,490 miles
    Lovells 350mm rear springs installed
  • 1/29/19_88,670 miles
    A/C tensioner replaced
  • 2/1/19_88,792 miles
    Rear brake pads and rotors replaced
  • 3/11/19_89,749 miles
    Lovells 340mm front springs and pedders strut mount bushing installed
  • 3/13/19_89,882 miles
    Xair intake installed
  • 3/20/19_90,192 miles
    Maverick Man coilovers installed
  • 3/21/19_90,227 miles
    Whiteline adjustable front radius rod bushings installed
  • 3/31/19_91,048 miles
    Whiteline motor mounts, Maverick Man transmission mount, MGW-P, Redline Goods shift boot installed
  • 4/2/19_91,209 miles
    GTOG8TA SAP grills installed
  • 5/6/19_92,755 miles
    DSS 1 piece carbon installed
  • 5/8/19_92,853 miles
    GTOG8TA emblems installed, a/c idler replaced, windshield washer pump replaced
  • 5/9/19
    New keyfob programmed
  • 12/13/19
    GTOG8TA SAP lip installed
  • 9/18/20
    Curt Hitch installed
  • 12/8/20
    Trunk Light switch replaced
  • 12/9/20_103,372 miles
    Kooks Catback installed, driver seat lever fixed, passenger seat lever fixed, driver map pocket re-installed
  • 12/10/20_103,372 miles
    AEM 30-0334 wideband installed
  • 12/21/20_104,163 miles
    GTOG8TA Trunk struts installed
  • 1/7/21_104,858 miles
    Front Rotors/pads replaced
  • 1/19/21
    PAC SWI-CP2 steering wheel control interface installed
  • 2/3/21_106,085 miles
    Whiteline diff insert installed
  • 2/6/21_106,200 miles
    Whiteline Rear upper shock bushings/wretched rear shock bolts, parking brake adjusted
  • 3/5/21_106,462 miles
    Monster lvl2 clutch/flywheel/speed bleeder, energy suspension rear subframe bushings, whiteline rear swaybar/rear swaybar link/rear lca bushings, wretched subframe bolts/subframe bracket bolts/rear lca bolts/rear swaybar link bolts, Tick bronze shifter bushing installed
  • 3/17/21_106,894 miles
    JHP gauge pod installed
  • 4/16/21_108,838 miles
    Lovells 370mm rear springs installed, aluminum HVAC knobs, trailer harness, bcm harness protected
  • 4/28/21_109,967 miles
    245/45/17 Goodyear Eagle Exhilarate Tires, Stock Intake Re-installed
  • 5/1/21_109,967 miles
    10mm Whiteline spring spacer, pedders rear shocks, pedders front struts w/stock springs (reused mount/bearing/bumpstop/endlink), a/c compressor, condenser, drier, low pressure line, high pressure line, pressure switch installed. Drain/refill radiator.
  • 5/3/21_109,717 miles
    4 wheel alignment
  • 5/4/21_109,778 miles
    A/C recharged
  • 5/4/21_109,828 miles
    Air filter changed, oil changed, diff fluid changed
  • 5/29/31
    Ceramikote headlights and foglights
  • 6/4/21
    SCSS Gator Pod, Mavman Boost & Oil Pressure gauge installed
  • 6/9/21
    lamin-x covers installed
  • 6/18/21_111,615 miles
    strut spring isolator/top hat/bumpstops/dustboots/bushing&bearing replaced
    aeromotive fpr & stealth 340lph w/wix fuel filter installed
  • 7/18/21_113,273 miles
    Duspeed, TVS, Fluiddampr installed
  • 7/22/21
    Radium fuel check valve installed
Engine/Trans
6.0L LS2/T56
Magnuson TVS2300
Duspeed OTR for TVS
DPE Corvette 2.5bar MAP Sensor
Fluidampr 740111
MightyMouse Catch Can
LFP 03-04 Cobra Dual Pass Heat Exchanger
ZL1 intercooler pump
Kooks Long Tube Headers
Kooks Catted Mid-Pipes
Kooks Catback/Muffler Deletes
Xair OTR Intake
MGW-P Short Shifter
DSS 1 piece carbon
AEM 30-0334 Wideband
Tick Performance Bronze Shifter Bushing

Maverick Man Polyurethane Transmission Mount
Whiteline Polyurethane Engine Mounts #W92930
Monster Lvl2 Clutch w/flywheel and speed-bleeder
Aeromotive A1000 FPR #AEI-13101
Aeromotive Stealth 340lph #AEI-11542
Radium Fuel Check Valve
Wix Fuel Filter #33481


Suspension
Pedders Strut Mounts #LMP4171K
Maverick Man Coilovers (390 lbs/in Front)
Pedders Sport Strut (9433L/R) and stock springs
Whiteline Adjustable Front Radius Rod Bushings #W82047
Whiteline Radius Rod Rear Bushings #W81099 (to be installed)
Whiteline Front Control Arm Bushings #W53175 (to be installed)


Maverick Man Coilovers (500 lbs/in Rear)
Lovells 370mm Stock Height Rear Springs
Whiteline 10mm Rear Spring Spacer
Pedders Rear Shock (9095)
Whiteline Rear Upper Shock Bushings #W31467
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar Link Bushings #W23034
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar Mount Bushings #W21484
Whiteline Rear Control Arm Bushings #W61483
Whiteline Rear Diff Insert #W92616
Energy Suspension Rear Subframe Bushings #3.4164G

Interior
Mavman Carbon Cluster Gauge Pod
DIY Dual Cluster Gauge Pod
Redline Goods Shift Boot
JHP Red Gauge Pod
SCSS Gator Pod
Mavman Boost Gauge
Mavman Oil PSI Gauge
Knurled Aluminum HVAC Knobs
WetOkole Seat Covers

Exterior
GTOG8TA SAP Grills (Gloss Black)
GTOG8TA SAP Fascia
GTOG8TA Pontiac Emblems
Lamin-X Covers
VX Taillights

Hardware:
Wretched lower strut bolts #28863-HK
Wretched front radius bushing nut #16363-HK
Wretched front lca to subframe bolts #18238-HK
Wretched front radius washer #19298-HK
Wretched rear radius washer #18068-HK
GM oem rear radius nut


Wretched rear subframe mount bracket bolts #48270-HK
Wretched rear subframe bolts #48482-HK
Wretched rear lca to subframe bolts #47937-HK
Wretched rear sway bar link bolts #45984-HK
Wretched rear lower shock bolts #46304-HK
Wretched rear diff mount bolts #48390-HK

figured id make a first post to say hello. Picked up this 06 Torrid mid-december with 86k miles on it for 8k. Pretty sure thats a steal of a price (at least around here it seemed that way). Honestly was only looking at GTOs just to get the LS2 and swap it into the e36. At 8k I figured i couldnt go wrong (ebay listings for swaps alone are ~7k). But here I am a month later and enjoy the car a lot. This is my first v8 and "domestic". Previous cars include K20 swapped integra that i built out for road course, 350z, turbo 240sx, and my current tacoma. I own multiple motorcycles as well. Definitely not afraid to do my own work.

Car had Kooks longtubes and cat mid-pipes, magnaflow x-pipe and flowmaster mufflers on the stock catback when i purchased it. It had some obvious flaws (rear carrier bearing was toast, rear rotors warped, stock springs junk, strut bushings shot, driver window guide). Just noticed today a water leak into the trunk too (collecting in the spare wheel well).
 

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Premium Member
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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds like a good deal.
Just make sure it has a LS2 and not a truck motor.

Congrats!
it definitely has the ls2 and not a truck motor. i made sure to check that when i bought it.

just replaced the rear disks and pads. seems like my vibes are gone. what a pain adjusting the ebrake is. its terrible. i still need to take one wheel off and adjust it a little more. went with centric premium rotors and ceramic pads off rockauto
 

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Wol Gemut
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3,518 Posts
definitely a great deal, especially for someone like yourself who apparently has wisdom in addressing its minor flaws. I enjoyed reading how you bought it for other purpose then were taken by how enjoyable it is. I bought mine to have a fun dd, then became completely hooked on it. anyway, congrats!
 

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Premium Member
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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
definitely a great deal, especially for someone like yourself who apparently has wisdom in addressing its minor flaws. I enjoyed reading how you bought it for other purpose then were taken by how enjoyable it is. I bought mine to have a fun dd, then became completely hooked on it. anyway, congrats!
thanks! definitely becoming hooked as well. its just nice to drive by comparison. getting issues fixed slowly, waiting for weather cooperate. sub 30 degree days are not outside friendly.
 

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Chickun maka lousy houspet
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431 Posts
That is a GREAT deal on that car! Looks really nice from the pictures!

When you go to do the bushings, there are the two subframe bushings you should definitely do (speaking from experience). A lot of the inside rear tire wear comes from the OEM bushings going bad. These go between the body and the triangular sub-frame. The Energy Suspension's bushings look like a really big cylinder with a steel sleeve inside and somewhat thick ring that will come off and somehow goes around it. The bolts you use are TTY and are a real B!_ch to get out. I'd suggest getting new bolts for those before you start. Also, do one side at a time, or you'll have to find someone with an alignment tool to get your rear subframe to align properly! This could be a real P.I.T.A. for you-unless you know someone with an alignment tool for the GTO. I know of ONLY one place in the Chicagoland area who has this alignment tool...and they don't loan it out!!!
 

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Premium Member
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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That is a GREAT deal on that car! Looks really nice from the pictures!

When you go to do the bushings, there are the two subframe bushings you should definitely do (speaking from experience). A lot of the inside rear tire wear comes from the OEM bushings going bad. These go between the body and the triangular sub-frame. The Energy Suspension's bushings look like a really big cylinder with a steel sleeve inside and somewhat thick ring that will come off and somehow goes around it. The bolts you use are TTY and are a real B!_ch to get out. I'd suggest getting new bolts for those before you start. Also, do one side at a time, or you'll have to find someone with an alignment tool to get your rear subframe to align properly! This could be a real P.I.T.A. for you-unless you know someone with an alignment tool for the GTO. I know of ONLY one place in the Chicagoland area who has this alignment tool...and they don't loan it out!!!
just saw this. thanks Doc. i definitely want to do the subframe - itll be a summer order for the energy kit and whiteline diff mount.

i did get some whiteline motor mounts and mavman trans mount in this week to do whenever i get around to installing the mgw-p. also have a lead on some pedders swaybars for a good deal. summer cant come soon enough
 

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Premium Member
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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
installed lovells 340mm front springs and pedders strut mount bushing and bearings this past monday. forgive my potato phone quality, ill break out my sony here in the next couple days.

while i was swapping them out i realized my shocks werent in the best shape, swaybar endlinks on their way out, and would need new bumpstops eventually. so i ordered mavman coilovers, figured it would come to roughly the same cost when i was considering koni yellows.

i hope the higher spring rates still ride nice cause i do like the ride the lovells springs have now.

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GR-RRR!
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6,799 Posts
Any plans on wheel upgrades? Just curious. Personally, I like the factory 17s and 18s, but on your car in particular I'd think the factory 17s would look better returned to the factory silver. Are your wheels painted or are they perhaps Plasti-Dipped? If PD, it wouldn't be too hard to remove it. Again, just my opinion on the wheel color.

I'm happy and not entirely surprised that you've found you really like the car, these are hidden gems in the performance car world it seems even to this day. It is nice to see yet another one not chopped into components and thrown on the trash heap.
 

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Administrator
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8,916 Posts
what a pain adjusting the ebrake is.
Just so you're aware, that's a parking brake and not an ebrake. Don't even try to pull up on that handle while moving or you'll violently lock up the rear wheels.

When you go to do the bushings, there are the two subframe bushings you should definitely do (speaking from experience). A lot of the inside rear tire wear comes from the OEM bushings going bad. These go between the body and the triangular sub-frame. The Energy Suspension's bushings look like a really big cylinder with a steel sleeve inside and somewhat thick ring that will come off and somehow goes around it. The bolts you use are TTY and are a real B!_ch to get out. I'd suggest getting new bolts for those before you start. Also, do one side at a time, or you'll have to find someone with an alignment tool to get your rear subframe to align properly! This could be a real P.I.T.A. for you-unless you know someone with an alignment tool for the GTO. I know of ONLY one place in the Chicagoland area who has this alignment tool...and they don't loan it out!!!
Good advise to replace the bushings in the car, but the subframe bushings have little to do with inside rear tire wear. The lack of camber adjustment without the use of eccentric bushings is the issue at the rear of these cars that causes inner tire wear due to saggy stock springs or a lowered suspension in general.
 

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Premium Member
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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Any plans on wheel upgrades? Just curious. Personally, I like the factory 17s and 18s, but on your car in particular I'd think the factory 17s would look better returned to the factory silver. Are your wheels painted or are they perhaps Plasti-Dipped? If PD, it wouldn't be too hard to remove it. Again, just my opinion on the wheel color.

I'm happy and not entirely surprised that you've found you really like the car, these are hidden gems in the performance car world it seems even to this day. It is nice to see yet another one not chopped into components and thrown on the trash heap.
i believe it is plastidip. as it has been peeling off slowly when ive been taking it to the carwash to blast the road salt off.

i would like to get some arc-8s. thats my goal eventually. those style wheels just look good on these cars imo
Just so you're aware, that's a parking brake and not an ebrake. Don't even try to pull up on that handle while moving or you'll violently lock up the rear wheels.

Good advise to replace the bushings in the car, but the subframe bushings have little to do with inside rear tire wear. The lack of camber adjustment without the use of eccentric bushings is the issue at the rear of these cars that causes inner tire wear due to saggy stock springs or a lowered suspension in general.
oh yeah. i guess i refer to them in the same aspect. im not a "drifter guy" so no worries there. but i do wish it was an ebrake built into the caliper (hondas have it that way and they are self-adjusting).

are the eccentrics pretty much necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
installed the xair intake tonight also. the passenger radiator donut was a pain to get out and in. still need to route the pcv intake behind the maf but ill do that tomorrow.

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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Installed Maverick Man coilovers tonight. they went in easy. honestly it was more difficult removing the stock shocks than anything. the bearings on the front struts definitely dont stay together. the ones i installed a week ago blew up when i disassembled the stock assembly. these coilovers had the perfect height out of the box imo. they ride super smooth too on the soft setting.

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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
is there anyway to change the title of this thread?


edit: now my starter is acting up too :banghead: just started after the coilovers but i know its irrelevant since i didnt touch anything related. i still need to do the BCM harness protection but i can hear the starter solenoid trying to engage so it has to be going bad, with enough turns of the key itll start.
 

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Wol Gemut
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3,518 Posts
i believe it is plastidip. as it has been peeling off slowly when ive been taking it to the carwash to blast the road salt off.

i would like to get some arc-8s. thats my goal eventually. those style wheels just look good on these cars imo
if you stay with 17s, I really like what this guy did.

 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i believe it is plastidip. as it has been peeling off slowly when ive been taking it to the carwash to blast the road salt off.

i would like to get some arc-8s. thats my goal eventually. those style wheels just look good on these cars imo
if you stay with 17s, I really like what this guy did.

ill probably step up to 18s just in case i ever decide to do the ctsv brake upgrade.

ive always had the opinion those wheels belong on mustangs, probably cause thats where i saw them first
 

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Wol Gemut
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I know, they are commonly called Mustang wheels because they were made so famous by Bullitt, but they were actually a popular wheel on many muscle cars back then. anyway, I agree that moving to 18s is a better idea than 17s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I know, they are commonly called Mustang wheels because they were made so famous by Bullitt, but they were actually a popular wheel on many muscle cars back then. anyway, I agree that moving to 18s is a better idea than 17s.
yeah thats it.

on another note i did get the whiteline front radius rod bushings installed thursday. i tried to undo the rear bushings but instead smashed my hand when the breaker bar slipped. i think ill have to pull out the propane torch next chance i get.

placed an order for whiteline upper rear shock bushings (stock ones are too soft) and energy suspension subframe set today. those should tighten up the rear some more. just keep adding to the to-do list.
 
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