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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I see that I'm yet another 05 owner to have the lovely safety mode issue. But unlike others I see most have no problem turning their car off then back on. Car has 19,997 miles on it with some healthy mods Maggy tvs2300, mild cam, Kooks lts, Borla HB. Car has been running great until one morning pulling out of my neighborhood it threw itself into safety mode then I approached a turnaround to head home and it shut down and has not turned over again since. Have purchased a new pedal sensor and apparently my map sent codes too so scooped that up too. Any tips on getting the car out of safety mode? Anything else I could be missing?
 

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That would cause the car not to crank? I get zero feedback when I turn the key, no click, no noise, nothing.
that's an electrical problem most likely, like a bad connection at the battery, bad starter, bad starter relay, bad ignition switch... something of that nature. ECM also controls the starter relay, iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
that's an electrical problem most likely, like a bad connection at the battery, bad starter, bad starter relay, bad ignition switch... something of that nature. ECM also controls the starter relay, iirc.
Guess I'm gonna have to start tackling those one at a time. I have full electronics when the key is turned, the car just dosen't attempt to crank. So there isn't some procedure to get out of reduced performance mode? I've seen some say to disconnect the battery for x amount of minutes.
 

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Guess I'm gonna have to start tackling those one at a time. I have full electronics when the key is turned, the car just dosen't attempt to crank. So there isn't some procedure to get out of reduced performance mode? I've seen some say to disconnect the battery for x amount of minutes.
you need to find the cause and fix that. turning the car off then on again isn't a guarantee, because it can instantly go back into reduced performance depending on what the issue is.

i see that you're pretty modded, with a cam and a supercharger. the issue could simply be your tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
you need to find the cause and fix that. turning the car off then on again isn't a guarantee, because it can instantly go back into reduced performance depending on what the issue is.

i see that you're pretty modded, with a cam and a supercharger. the issue could simply be your tune.
Well I'm gonna start with swapping the pedal and map sensor and then work my way from there. Don't think the car will turn back on by replacing those but who knows. I'm just running out of ideas here.
 

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Good luck to ya, let us know what you find, as I'm in the same boat, as are a few others. I'm still banking on the ECUs being junk. For the problem to be more than just isolated incidents, I can't see it being parts like a TB, pedal or MAF/MAP sensor. Problem is, if it is the culprit, with almost no availability, it seems like the car is destined for the scrap yard despite being in good shape otherwise.

How old is the battery? Despite being on a trickle charger, mine still took a dump and it ran well for a bit after getting a new battery. It didn't solve Safe Mode though. I did have an incident once where I went to start it and nothing happened. Turn it off, took the key out, waited and had another stab at it and it started up, but it idled terribly. Shut it off again, waited again, started it and it was 100% fine.

I've replaced the Throttle Body, Pedal Sensor (2x) & pigtail to the throttle body.
 

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Good luck to ya, let us know what you find, as I'm in the same boat, as are a few others. I'm still banking on the ECUs being junk. For the problem to be more than just isolated incidents, I can't see it being parts like a TB, pedal or MAF/MAP sensor. Problem is, if it is the culprit, with almost no availability, it seems like the car is destined for the scrap yard despite being in good shape otherwise.

How old is the battery? Despite being on a trickle charger, mine still took a dump and it ran well for a bit after getting a new battery. It didn't solve Safe Mode though. I did have an incident once where I went to start it and nothing happened. Turn it off, took the key out, waited and had another stab at it and it started up, but it idled terribly. Shut it off again, waited again, started it and it was 100% fine.

I've replaced the Throttle Body, Pedal Sensor (2x) & pigtail to the throttle body.
I'll take your car. Tree fiddy.
 

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Good luck to ya, let us know what you find, as I'm in the same boat, as are a few others. I'm still banking on the ECUs being junk. For the problem to be more than just isolated incidents, I can't see it being parts like a TB, pedal or MAF/MAP sensor. Problem is, if it is the culprit, with almost no availability, it seems like the car is destined for the scrap yard despite being in good shape otherwise.

How old is the battery? Despite being on a trickle charger, mine still took a dump and it ran well for a bit after getting a new battery. It didn't solve Safe Mode though. I did have an incident once where I went to start it and nothing happened. Turn it off, took the key out, waited and had another stab at it and it started up, but it idled terribly. Shut it off again, waited again, started it and it was 100% fine.

I've replaced the Throttle Body, Pedal Sensor (2x) & pigtail to the throttle body.
Fairly sure not being able to use an 06 ECM in a 05 is a lie. The bricking occurs because of incompatabilites with the throttle control segment of the software between the 05 and the 06+ ecm's. As long as the OS part number matches the other segments, you should be able to get it to work.
 

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Fairly sure not being able to use an 06 ECM in a 05 is a lie. The bricking occurs because of incompatabilites with the throttle control segment of the software between the 05 and the 06+ ecm's. As long as the OS part number matches the other segments, you should be able to get it to work.
> OS part number
Is this a round-about way of saying version of the software or firmware running on the ECM? Or is there an actual Part Number (sticker?) on the ECM that allows you to tell them apart or confirm they're the same?

Not debating you, just trying to understand for personal knowledge.
 

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Rectangle Font Software Screenshot Electronic device


Here, I stole this from hptuners website. Breakdown of the segments within the OS. I am not sure what ECM it is for, probably a p01 or p59. The software lists the segment #'s as "ID"s but they follow the same 8 number format as GM service numbers or part numbers.

Anyway a particular version of a software segment is going to have a unique number.

What i noticed with the 05 and 06 ECM's, as well as having different service numbers for the entire ECM, is that the software segments have different ID's or service numbers. HPTuners doesn't flash every segment with the e40... iirc the segment that does throttle control is not overwritten.

Writing an 05 tune file to an 06 ECM (or visa versa, i do believe) supposedly bricks it, but i have copy pasted individual tables from an 05 tune to an 06, changed the vin number on the 06 ECM to an 05 VIN, and disabled VATS. The 06 ECM is still working fine, at least it is accessible and writable via a bench harness and hptuners. I haven't had a chance to try in in my 05 yet...

But since hptuners doesn't overwrite everything, what's left probably doesn't jive with the rest of the OS and calibration you are trying to flash it with. Could also be some small difference in hardware between service numbers requiring specific software.

But since e40's across year models are pretty much the same externally, and should "LOOK" the same to the rest of the car's electronics, i don't see why you can't swap 05/06 ECM's as long as you keep the correct software with the ECM and disable VATS.
 

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Ok, just did some quick googling to jog my memory. There is a main operating system and what is known as a "slave operating system" that handles the throttle control.

I guess hptuners will write the slave os? I could swear reading somewhere that it couldn't. Ah well.

Anyway, he says it is likely a hardware compatibility issue. So, stick with the right software for the year model E40 you are trying to flash.

As per chris from hptuners:

the slave is the second CPU inside the ECM that controls the ETC and performs various secondary throttle checks (ie. similar to the TAC module on the LS1). It has it's own operating system code and calibration. It communicates with the main cpu using a serial communications interface.

On the E40 we can read and write the slave (although we do not offer any calibrations for it, never needed to) on the E38 we cannot read it and hence don't write to it.
Our software will write entire the slave cpu OS and CAL for the E40. My guess is a hardware incompatibility.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good luck to ya, let us know what you find, as I'm in the same boat, as are a few others. I'm still banking on the ECUs being junk. For the problem to be more than just isolated incidents, I can't see it being parts like a TB, pedal or MAF/MAP sensor. Problem is, if it is the culprit, with almost no availability, it seems like the car is destined for the scrap yard despite being in good shape otherwise.

How old is the battery? Despite being on a trickle charger, mine still took a dump and it ran well for a bit after getting a new battery. It didn't solve Safe Mode though. I did have an incident once where I went to start it and nothing happened. Turn it off, took the key out, waited and had another stab at it and it started up, but it idled terribly. Shut it off again, waited again, started it and it was 100% fine.

I've replaced the Throttle Body, Pedal Sensor (2x) & pigtail to the throttle body.
Battery is probably aged, I'm the second owner on the vehicle but the car was meticulously maintained. Hopefully I'm not at the point of offloading this heap yet.
 
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