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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Newest Picture:


•Carrier bearing & guibos replaced 88,426 miles 1/21/19
•Lovells 350mm rear springs installed 88,490 miles 1/23/19
•A/C tensioner replaced 88,670 miles 1/29/19
•Rear brake pads and rotors replaced 88,792 miles 2/1/19
•Lovells 340mm front springs and pedders strut mount bushing installed 89,749 miles 3/11/19
•Xair intake installed 89,882 miles 3/13/19
•Maverick Man coilovers installed 90,192 miles 3/20/19
•Whiteline adjustable front radius rod bushings installed 90,227 miles 3/21/19
•Whiteline motor mounts, Maverick Man transmission mount, MGW-P, Redline Goods shift boot installed 91,048 miles 3/31/19
•GTOG8TA SAP grills installed 91,209 miles 4/2/19
•DSS 1 piece carbon installed 92,755 miles 5/6/19
•GTOG8TA emblems installed, a/c idler replaced, windshield washer pump replaced 92,853 miles 5/8/19


Engine/Trans
6.0L LS2/T56
Kooks Long Tube Headers
Kooks Catted Mid-Pipes
Xair OTR Intake
MGW-P Short Shifter
DSS 1 piece carbon

Suspension
Pedders Strut Mounts #LMP4171K
Maverick Man Coilovers (390 lbs/in Front, 500 lbs/in Rear)
Maverick Man Polyurethane Transmission Mount
Whiteline Polyurethane Engine Mounts #W92930
Whiteline Adjustable Front Radius Rod Bushings #W82047

Whiteline Rear Radius Rod Bushings #W81099 (to be installed)
Whiteline Control Arm Bushings #W53175 (to be installed)
Whiteline Rear Upper Shock Bushings #W31467 (to be installed)
Energy Suspension Rear Subframe Bushings #3.4164G (to be installed)

Interior
Redline Goods Shift Boot

Exterior
GTOG8TA SAP Grills (Gloss Black)
GTOG8TA SAP Fascia
GTOG8TA Pontiac Emblems

Original Post:

figured id make a first post to say hello. Picked up this 06 Torrid mid-december with 86k miles on it for 8k. Pretty sure thats a steal of a price (at least around here it seemed that way). Honestly was only looking at GTOs just to get the LS2 and swap it into the e36. At 8k I figured i couldnt go wrong (ebay listings for swaps alone are ~7k). But here I am a month later and enjoy the car a lot. This is my first v8 and "domestic". Previous cars include K20 swapped integra that i built out for road course, 350z, turbo 240sx, and my current tacoma. I own multiple motorcycles as well. Definitely not afraid to do my own work.

Car had Kooks longtubes and cat mid-pipes, magnaflow x-pipe and flowmaster mufflers on the stock catback when i purchased it. It had some obvious flaws (rear carrier bearing was toast, rear rotors warped, stock springs junk, strut bushings shot, driver window guide). Just noticed today a water leak into the trunk too (collecting in the spare wheel well).

View attachment 490991
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sounds like a good deal.
Just make sure it has a LS2 and not a truck motor.

Congrats!
it definitely has the ls2 and not a truck motor. i made sure to check that when i bought it.

just replaced the rear disks and pads. seems like my vibes are gone. what a pain adjusting the ebrake is. its terrible. i still need to take one wheel off and adjust it a little more. went with centric premium rotors and ceramic pads off rockauto
 

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Wol Gemut
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3,350 Posts
definitely a great deal, especially for someone like yourself who apparently has wisdom in addressing its minor flaws. I enjoyed reading how you bought it for other purpose then were taken by how enjoyable it is. I bought mine to have a fun dd, then became completely hooked on it. anyway, congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
definitely a great deal, especially for someone like yourself who apparently has wisdom in addressing its minor flaws. I enjoyed reading how you bought it for other purpose then were taken by how enjoyable it is. I bought mine to have a fun dd, then became completely hooked on it. anyway, congrats!
thanks! definitely becoming hooked as well. its just nice to drive by comparison. getting issues fixed slowly, waiting for weather cooperate. sub 30 degree days are not outside friendly.
 

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Chickun maka lousy houspet
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414 Posts
That is a GREAT deal on that car! Looks really nice from the pictures!

When you go to do the bushings, there are the two subframe bushings you should definitely do (speaking from experience). A lot of the inside rear tire wear comes from the OEM bushings going bad. These go between the body and the triangular sub-frame. The Energy Suspension's bushings look like a really big cylinder with a steel sleeve inside and somewhat thick ring that will come off and somehow goes around it. The bolts you use are TTY and are a real B!_ch to get out. I'd suggest getting new bolts for those before you start. Also, do one side at a time, or you'll have to find someone with an alignment tool to get your rear subframe to align properly! This could be a real P.I.T.A. for you-unless you know someone with an alignment tool for the GTO. I know of ONLY one place in the Chicagoland area who has this alignment tool...and they don't loan it out!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is a GREAT deal on that car! Looks really nice from the pictures!

When you go to do the bushings, there are the two subframe bushings you should definitely do (speaking from experience). A lot of the inside rear tire wear comes from the OEM bushings going bad. These go between the body and the triangular sub-frame. The Energy Suspension's bushings look like a really big cylinder with a steel sleeve inside and somewhat thick ring that will come off and somehow goes around it. The bolts you use are TTY and are a real B!_ch to get out. I'd suggest getting new bolts for those before you start. Also, do one side at a time, or you'll have to find someone with an alignment tool to get your rear subframe to align properly! This could be a real P.I.T.A. for you-unless you know someone with an alignment tool for the GTO. I know of ONLY one place in the Chicagoland area who has this alignment tool...and they don't loan it out!!!
just saw this. thanks Doc. i definitely want to do the subframe - itll be a summer order for the energy kit and whiteline diff mount.

i did get some whiteline motor mounts and mavman trans mount in this week to do whenever i get around to installing the mgw-p. also have a lead on some pedders swaybars for a good deal. summer cant come soon enough
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
installed lovells 340mm front springs and pedders strut mount bushing and bearings this past monday. forgive my potato phone quality, ill break out my sony here in the next couple days.

while i was swapping them out i realized my shocks werent in the best shape, swaybar endlinks on their way out, and would need new bumpstops eventually. so i ordered mavman coilovers, figured it would come to roughly the same cost when i was considering koni yellows.

i hope the higher spring rates still ride nice cause i do like the ride the lovells springs have now.

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GR-RRR!
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Any plans on wheel upgrades? Just curious. Personally, I like the factory 17s and 18s, but on your car in particular I'd think the factory 17s would look better returned to the factory silver. Are your wheels painted or are they perhaps Plasti-Dipped? If PD, it wouldn't be too hard to remove it. Again, just my opinion on the wheel color.

I'm happy and not entirely surprised that you've found you really like the car, these are hidden gems in the performance car world it seems even to this day. It is nice to see yet another one not chopped into components and thrown on the trash heap.
 

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what a pain adjusting the ebrake is.
Just so you're aware, that's a parking brake and not an ebrake. Don't even try to pull up on that handle while moving or you'll violently lock up the rear wheels.

When you go to do the bushings, there are the two subframe bushings you should definitely do (speaking from experience). A lot of the inside rear tire wear comes from the OEM bushings going bad. These go between the body and the triangular sub-frame. The Energy Suspension's bushings look like a really big cylinder with a steel sleeve inside and somewhat thick ring that will come off and somehow goes around it. The bolts you use are TTY and are a real B!_ch to get out. I'd suggest getting new bolts for those before you start. Also, do one side at a time, or you'll have to find someone with an alignment tool to get your rear subframe to align properly! This could be a real P.I.T.A. for you-unless you know someone with an alignment tool for the GTO. I know of ONLY one place in the Chicagoland area who has this alignment tool...and they don't loan it out!!!
Good advise to replace the bushings in the car, but the subframe bushings have little to do with inside rear tire wear. The lack of camber adjustment without the use of eccentric bushings is the issue at the rear of these cars that causes inner tire wear due to saggy stock springs or a lowered suspension in general.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Any plans on wheel upgrades? Just curious. Personally, I like the factory 17s and 18s, but on your car in particular I'd think the factory 17s would look better returned to the factory silver. Are your wheels painted or are they perhaps Plasti-Dipped? If PD, it wouldn't be too hard to remove it. Again, just my opinion on the wheel color.

I'm happy and not entirely surprised that you've found you really like the car, these are hidden gems in the performance car world it seems even to this day. It is nice to see yet another one not chopped into components and thrown on the trash heap.
i believe it is plastidip. as it has been peeling off slowly when ive been taking it to the carwash to blast the road salt off.

i would like to get some arc-8s. thats my goal eventually. those style wheels just look good on these cars imo
Just so you're aware, that's a parking brake and not an ebrake. Don't even try to pull up on that handle while moving or you'll violently lock up the rear wheels.

Good advise to replace the bushings in the car, but the subframe bushings have little to do with inside rear tire wear. The lack of camber adjustment without the use of eccentric bushings is the issue at the rear of these cars that causes inner tire wear due to saggy stock springs or a lowered suspension in general.
oh yeah. i guess i refer to them in the same aspect. im not a "drifter guy" so no worries there. but i do wish it was an ebrake built into the caliper (hondas have it that way and they are self-adjusting).

are the eccentrics pretty much necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
installed the xair intake tonight also. the passenger radiator donut was a pain to get out and in. still need to route the pcv intake behind the maf but ill do that tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #15
Installed Maverick Man coilovers tonight. they went in easy. honestly it was more difficult removing the stock shocks than anything. the bearings on the front struts definitely dont stay together. the ones i installed a week ago blew up when i disassembled the stock assembly. these coilovers had the perfect height out of the box imo. they ride super smooth too on the soft setting.

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
is there anyway to change the title of this thread?


edit: now my starter is acting up too :banghead: just started after the coilovers but i know its irrelevant since i didnt touch anything related. i still need to do the BCM harness protection but i can hear the starter solenoid trying to engage so it has to be going bad, with enough turns of the key itll start.
 

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Wol Gemut
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i believe it is plastidip. as it has been peeling off slowly when ive been taking it to the carwash to blast the road salt off.

i would like to get some arc-8s. thats my goal eventually. those style wheels just look good on these cars imo
if you stay with 17s, I really like what this guy did.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
i believe it is plastidip. as it has been peeling off slowly when ive been taking it to the carwash to blast the road salt off.

i would like to get some arc-8s. thats my goal eventually. those style wheels just look good on these cars imo
if you stay with 17s, I really like what this guy did.

ill probably step up to 18s just in case i ever decide to do the ctsv brake upgrade.

ive always had the opinion those wheels belong on mustangs, probably cause thats where i saw them first
 

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Wol Gemut
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I know, they are commonly called Mustang wheels because they were made so famous by Bullitt, but they were actually a popular wheel on many muscle cars back then. anyway, I agree that moving to 18s is a better idea than 17s.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know, they are commonly called Mustang wheels because they were made so famous by Bullitt, but they were actually a popular wheel on many muscle cars back then. anyway, I agree that moving to 18s is a better idea than 17s.
yeah thats it.

on another note i did get the whiteline front radius rod bushings installed thursday. i tried to undo the rear bushings but instead smashed my hand when the breaker bar slipped. i think ill have to pull out the propane torch next chance i get.

placed an order for whiteline upper rear shock bushings (stock ones are too soft) and energy suspension subframe set today. those should tighten up the rear some more. just keep adding to the to-do list.
 
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