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Christian Goat
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3,533 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)


People: 2
Tools: 3 foot extension, wobbly attachment, 3 foot socket wrench, 18mm and 13mm sockets, engine hoist to lift engine from the top.
Time: 3 hours with Arby's break in the middle.
Injuries: Can't move my body
Driving Impression: She vibrates from 700-750 rpm (idle) and again from 2000-2200 rpm. It must pick up some harmonic frequency and rumbles the car. I'm working on isolating the rattles around the car. Other than that, it feels awesome through the gears! It definitely feels like you are connected to a 6.0L engine. :turbonaug

First, a big thanks goes out to the sin city goats that offer up their garage for these types of installs. I've used several garages, and give many thanks.

First step is to remove the top and bottom nuts from the existing motor mounts. Next, there are 3 nuts that mount the engine to the actual motor mount. Those 3 nuts are a pain to get to, even with our 3' foot extension and a wobbly attachment. You just need to find the right angles from the top or bottom of the engine. We removed 2 of the nuts and loosened the 3rd.

Do NOT forget to lift the power steering reservoir out of its resting place! The power steering lines need to be loose enough to allow the motor to lift without bursting the lines.

Next, we lifted the drivers side by the engine hoist, and lifted the motor off the mount. I have the JBA shorty headers, so I could simply drop out the OEM mount and slide the SCSS mount in. Don't forget about the heat shield. Here's a pic of the finished driver's side.

Driver 1


Driver 2


The passenger side was a lot harder. We had to connect to both top engine lift points to get the passenger side to lift enough over the OEM mount. Chains help a lot here.
The 3 bolts were nearly impossible to access and there were multiple harnesses and tubes in the way. We had to completely remove the 3 bolts and one of the grounding points from the battery. Finally, the passenger OEM motor mount slid out. Again, thank you to JBA for making enough clearance in there. Here's a pic of the completed passenger side.

Passenger1


Passenger2


Any questions, feel free to ask. :morncoff:
 

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Registered
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380 Posts
Great write up and pictures. Been thinking about doing this, next task is just tightening up and getting rid of stock crap parts.
You can feel it being a little more responsive???
 

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Christian Goat
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3,533 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It just feels more connected rowing through the gears. I can't really get on it too much because I have a PCV issue that needs to be resolved soon. I has the yellowish froth on the oil cap. Ew.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283533

Help me out? Thanks.
 

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Premium Member
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683 Posts
Great job on the mounts. As for the yellowish froth, I was always told that if you have that stuff, you got water in your oil, oil galleries etc... somehow.
 

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Been here for a long time...
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4,658 Posts
Nice. I'm still trying to find time to install mine...

As for the oil, do you take short trips? Usually that pops up in the winter because of the colder conditions or just not getting it up to temp for a long enough time to burn off the condensation. For the most part, its normal.
 

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Loves Hybrids
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185 Posts
do you have to put the heat shields in with the mounts? When we did my mounts we did not put the shields and it seems okay. I know the instructions state to put the heat shield on.
 

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Banned
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1,581 Posts
do you have to put the heat shields in with the mounts? When we did my mounts we did not put the shields and it seems okay. I know the instructions state to put the heat shield on.
It's up to you to make a decision, but when you will melt the bushing from the radiated heat of your headers, we will all laugh at you. :)

I am just kidding. It's best to use them, they help to keep heat away from MM. Especially on turbo cars like mine with manifolds just inches away from MM, or for those running shorties or LT headers. Don't you want to protect your investment?
 

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Christian Goat
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3,533 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Also, don't forget there's an attachment to the passenger side motor mount bracket. You should reinstall it after you install the motor mounts. You can easily see it from the top of the engine bay. I believe it's a 10mm bolt that attaches one of the A/C lines....
 

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Registered
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41 Posts
Just FYI you don't have to remove/loosen the 3 nuts that hold the bracket to the motor. It probably makes it hella easier to get the mount out, but isn't necessary.
 

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Christian Goat
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3,533 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Correct, we didn't want to have to lift the motor high enough to clear the top of the stock motor mount. Even when we lifted the power steering reservoir out of its bracket, it was still stretching most of the power steering lines. We didn't want to see what happened if we jacked the motor up further. I'd say we lifted the motor about 3-4 inches total.
 

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onesickxp
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279 Posts
i installed solid mounts on the goat today took 30 minutes start to finish on jack stands i dont understand why so many peaple say its so difficult. but they really do work. well
deff recommend getting rid of factory mounts regardless if you go poly or solid.
 

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Christian Goat
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3,533 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Where'd you get the solid mounts from? Do you like the new feel of the car?
Gotta love every single horsepower and quick shift now! ha
 

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Still here.
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4,523 Posts
i installed solid mounts on the goat today took 30 minutes start to finish on jack stands i dont understand why so many peaple say its so difficult. but they really do work. well
deff recommend getting rid of factory mounts regardless if you go poly or solid.
You have stock manifolds don't you?
:bomb:
 

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Christian Goat
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3,533 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
My jba shorties made the job a lot more simple to get to the motor mounts.
 

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Premium Member
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122 Posts
wobbly attachment
...props! :) never heard it called that before. Great write up sir.
 

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DICPLINE YOUR DISSAPPOINTMENT
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1,237 Posts
thinking bout doing the mm, but still on the fence about the tranny mounts. Is it true that you have to do both to keep from having issues?
 

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Christian Goat
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3,533 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Motor mounts alone are fine.
Motor + Tranny mounts are fine.
Tranny mount alone is NOT fine.

Many people are running solid/poly motor mounts and window welding the OEM tranny mount. Your choice.
 

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Been here for a long time...
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4,658 Posts
I have a poly tranny mount and its been fine, had it about a year or so. Still haven't put in the motor mounts yet. My tranny mount isn't an SCSS piece though, just the motor mounts are.
 
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