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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,
Just finished relocating my battery to the trunk. Spent $70 for 15ft 1ga wire, new terminals, 1ga copper eyelets, battery tray/battery hold down and some self tapping screws/washers. I routed the wire, hid it, installed the battery tray, put the battery in and connected the terminals to the positive wire and a short run of negative wire that I attached to the floor after scraping the paint off. The factory negative terminal I expanded and bolted to the head (I'm not sure if this is a good ground, or if I need to move it to the block), and the positive I just yanked the terminal itself off, connected the new cable to an eyelet and nut and bolt through them and thats it. Starts right up, no issues at all. I just want to make sure it's safe lol. My dad has a battery box he will give me so I can enclose the battery, but aside from that should I run maybe a fusible link inline? If so what size? Oreillys went up to 250amp but I wasn't sure and didn't want to waste any money.

Here are some pics, please let me know ASAP if I need to change anything so I don't blow myself up lol. This is my daily driver, so I need it to be safe lol,
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thanks
 

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My ground was added to the fuel tank brace bolt. Also ran a second one under just because.
Id get a junction/distribution block for the power up front. Cut it and add new eyelets and make that a bit safer.
Cant say Id add a fuse, if I did it would be after the alt power and within 18". Ive had issue adding a fuse with the battery relocation. But you can give it a shot. Normally you want it rated for the alt if gonna do, which I cant remember stock output. Also needs to withstand the surge from the starter. So keep a spare handy and make sure it still starts the same if you add one.

I dont have anything but may add a relay later when I redo the trunk setup. Just messy atm.
508440
 

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I would highly recommend a fuse on both ends of the cable running front to back. Or a circuit breaker that you can reset.

If either end shorts without protection theres a chance of a fire starting
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My ground was added to the fuel tank brace bolt. Also ran a second one under just because.
Id get a junction/distribution block for the power up front. Cut it and add new eyelets and make that a bit safer.
Cant say Id add a fuse, if I did it would be after the alt power and within 18". Ive had issue adding a fuse with the battery relocation. But you can give it a shot. Normally you want it rated for the alt if gonna do, which I cant remember stock output. Also needs to withstand the surge from the starter. So keep a spare handy and make sure it still starts the same if you add one.

I dont have anything but may add a relay later when I redo the trunk setup. Just messing atm. View attachment 508440
Jesus thats a pretty setup lol. I yanked the back seat, seatbelts, and passenger seat (mainly to route the battery cable but i left it out to get a feel at the lightest i can get it lol) and stripped the trunk and with the battery rerouted it feels like it drives a little better, brakes a little better, and im sure 250 pounds less it should use slightly less gas. I do have gm 10" wide on the back and they are heavier than factory so that extra rotational weight essentially cancels it all out lmao.
I want to make sure this battery setup is safe and I want to get some similar sound proof carpet as the floors and cover the back where the seat went. The fuel pump is very loud without the seat lol. But the delete kits are still $300 so just the carpet covering should look good to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would highly recommend a fuse on both ends of the cable running front to back. Or a circuit breaker that you can reset.

If either end shorts without protection theres a chance of a fire starting
That's exactly what I'd like to hear, what size circuit breaker and are these like home depot items or auto part store items? Lol. Sorry I am horrible with electricity, I was petrified of getting electrocuted, after actually getting a bad shock, as a kid, and I just never really caught on even though I've been through 3 different Basic engineering courses and Automotive school now lol
 

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That's exactly what I'd like to hear, what size circuit breaker and are these like home depot items or auto part store items? Lol. Sorry I am horrible with electricity, I was petrified of getting electrocuted, after actually getting a bad shock, as a kid, and I just never really caught on even though I've been through 3 different Basic engineering courses and Automotive school now lol
No not home depot or something youll likely find at oreilly/vato zone.

Look up blue sea circuit breakers/distribution blocks. You should use a size that will protect the wire in a dead short typically
 

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Even an AGM like the Optima should be in an enclosure that is vented to the outside. Although AGM's don't normally vent gas, they can if the voltage goes too high. If that happens you don't want a trunk full of hydrogen gas.
 

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Sorry to threadjack - Im in the process of trying to relocate battery myself. I have like a 100' of old 3/0 gauge but I think its a) overkill b) heavy 3. too stiff d) finding crimps/connectors for it is hard.

Would you say ordering 20' of 0 or 00 gauge is enough to run from trunk to old battery location up front?

(Sorry, getting things shipped here costs more than the part itself usually)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry to threadjack - Im in the process of trying to relocate battery myself. I have like a 100' of old 3/0 gauge but I think its a) overkill b) heavy 3. too stiff d) finding crimps/connectors for it is hard.

Would you say ordering 20' of 0 or 00 gauge is enough to run from trunk to old battery location up front?

(Sorry, getting things shipped here costs more than the part itself usually)
You really only need around 14', if you route things a little better than me you can tighten it up to maybe 13-13.5 feet. But I had the single piece of 15' 1ga (Standard CS1V I believe is the part number at oreillys, maybe $5 a foot normal, but I have a commercial account) and it was soft enough to route comfortably. Pulled the grommet on the passenger side (literally the hardest thing I've ever done on this car, I yanked on that thing for 20 minutes before I got it out lol) shove the wire straight down and you'll see it in the passenger floorboard. Pull the trim on the passenger side, pull the back seat, then there's a total of 6 screws that use a torx bit, 4 under the cover with the pontiac emblem, and 2 holding the back trim to the back wall, and 2 that are Phillips head, one under the trim with the torx bits, and the other connecting the back piece to the bottom piece (this one isn't really a screw its one of those expanding pieces that hold trim together, so have to turn it slowly while pulling and then yank the other piece out), then you can get to everything. Pull the cable all the way through leaving enough to connect up front, then hid it under the right side under the trim and behind the back panel, but higher up behind that back panel on the back wall there's a hole that the trunk wiring goes through, just push it through there. Then Pull it tight from the trunk and it should be good to replace the trim hiding it all. Then put your battery tray where you want it, and cut the wire where the positive will be, and use the excess for the negative. I connected the factory ground wires straight to the engine, and the positive I connected through the hole the terminal went with a nut and bolt, and the battery ground I scraped paint and screwed it straight to the floor.

Only thing it looks like I'm going to change is ordering a distribution block to 1 clean up the engine bay, and 2 ensure a better connection of the positive.
 

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Cheers thank you. I may just have to bit the bullet and order 20' which should give me extra to ground and add a breaker. This 3/0 gauge is a bugger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers thank you. I may just have to bit the bullet and order 20' which should give me extra to ground and add a breaker. This 3/0 gauge is a bugger.
Yea I wouldn't go that high lol. 0ga at the biggest. But 1ga will be lighter cheaper and easier to work with. 20' will be a little much. But if thats the only option then yea. You can mount a distribution block closer to the firewall (-1ft) and add a fusible link or breaker in the trunk (-0.5ft) and have the ground a little closer to the battery (-0.5ft) so really only 13 is needed if you do it clean and tight. Im probably going to end up cutting the ground I have now down a few inches (its just way to long lol) and get a breaker and distribution block to make it look nicer and work a little better. Getting my dad's marine battery box to enclose the battery for added precaution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No not home depot or something youll likely find at oreilly/vato zone.

Look up blue sea circuit breakers/distribution blocks. You should use a size that will protect the wire in a dead short typically
So im looking online at these breakers, I'm looking at the high amp auto reset ones. They go up to 150 amp for 1/4 stud 200 amp for 3/8 stud. Im not sure what the stud means and how much amperage im looking for. Is the breaker supposed to prevent overcharging the battery? Like if it's sending too much amperage to the battery it trips?
 

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So im looking online at these breakers, I'm looking at the high amp auto reset ones. They go up to 150 amp for 1/4 stud 200 amp for 3/8 stud. Im not sure what the stud means and how much amperage im looking for. Is the breaker supposed to prevent overcharging the battery? Like if it's sending too much amperage to the battery it trips?
i used a 250 in the truck and a 125 for the alternator and one upfront by the junction. More than that will burn the fuse. Just a safety incase your power wire gets a nick in it and grounds out or the starter freaks out and continues to run. Also since you moved it to the rear, if you plan on taking it to the track, you will need a cut off switch.

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So im looking online at these breakers, I'm looking at the high amp auto reset ones. They go up to 150 amp for 1/4 stud 200 amp for 3/8 stud. Im not sure what the stud means and how much amperage im looking for. Is the breaker supposed to prevent overcharging the battery? Like if it's sending too much amperage to the battery it trips?
No the breaker is to prevent short to grounds. Which will draw high amperage and melt wires/whatever else its touching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i used a 250 in the truck and a 125 for the alternator and one upfront by the junction. More than that will burn the fuse. Just a safety incase your power wire gets a nick in it and grounds out or the starter freaks out and continues to run. Also since you moved it to the rear, if you plan on taking it to the track, you will need a cut off switch.

View attachment 508453 View attachment 508454
I'm so sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, when I told you I sucked at electricity I freaking meant it. So you're saying run a 250amp in the trunk for the positive, and a separate 125 for the wire going to the alternator?
And I actually have my goat listed for sale and if I get what I'm asking i plan to restore an Elco and ls swap it. But if it doesn't sell I'm going to put a turbo where the battery used to be lol. So I will want an emergency cutoff switch if I end up turboing it. Is that what your right block (says flaming something) is? Again, I'm sorry for my ignorance. I can build an engine all day long and work on all the mechanical parts, replace suspension and all the other big jobs, but when it comes to wiring electrical components or anything like that I swear I'm retarded.
 

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I think you'll find varying levels of safety/caution here. Most of what I've seen/heard and what I was planning was a single breaker/fuse right off the battery before it goes through the car. This is pretty straight forward if you think of your battery relocation as more of a lengthening the cables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think you'll find varying levels of safety/caution here. Most of what I've seen/heard and what I was planning was a single breaker/fuse right off the battery before it goes through the car. This is pretty straight forward if you think of your battery relocation as more of a lengthening the cables.
That's essentially all I've done, that's why I'm trying to learn about adding breakers or fuses. Biggest concern is making sure the thing doesn't catch on fire right next to a gas tank lol. I mean it's really no different than being in the engine bay, the battery catches on fire, the hood liner catches on fire, the fuel lines and brake lines get exposed or hot enough and they'll catch on fire too lol. But from what I've read so far the breaker essentially stops the flow if the ground would be exposed and burn something around it?
 

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I think you'll find varying levels of safety/caution here. Most of what I've seen/heard and what I was planning was a single breaker/fuse right off the battery before it goes through the car. This is pretty straight forward if you think of your battery relocation as more of a lengthening the cables.
Meh. 12 inches of alternator cable vs 15ft through the car is different.

Id be putting one on each end personally.
 

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On each end of the 15ft cable? I guess having double redundancy is not a bad idea but breaking the connection is breaking the connection. Unless the fuse/breaker is faulty it would accomplish the same thing. Or I could be completely misunderstanding what you're saying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So the alternator should put out 250+ amp after 1200 rpm, and 125ish at idle. It's $40 for a 300 amp auto reset breaker, so to install it I would just put that in the trunk on the wall and cut the positive in the trunk and put each end on the breaker? But you're saying run an extra one, would that one be in the engine bay just a lower amperage?
 
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