LS1GTO.com Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
GR-RRR!
Joined
·
5,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to be tracking the car next weekend so I thought bleeding the clutch master and slave might make some sense. I have a remote bleeder with a one-way valve on the end. I opened the valve and bled out about 4 refills of the master. I never let the fluid go below the bottom of the master reservoir. I closed the bleeder and pumped the clutch a few more times and all seemed fine. That was yesterday.

Today I went to take the car for a spin and couldn't get the car in gear with the engine running and the clutch felt low on the pedal so I pumped the pedal rapidly a few dozen times and the clutch pedal came back and I was able to shift into any gear and while in neutral the car could roll easily by itself. But I still had a hard time getting into reverse but that's not entirely uncommon with my Pro Billet shifter.

After a drive I sat with the car running and shifted through all the gears easily, reverse was easier too, probably because it was all warmed up.

However, and here is my concern, when I shifted out of reverse and into a forward gear all while sitting still, I could hear a clunk in the differential. I'm assuming there is just a very slight drag on the trans while the engine is running. Nothing enough to actually move the car, it would still roll backwards while in a forward gear but with the clutch disengaged for instance, but at least enough drag to take the slop out of the drivetrain. I've never noticed this before but then I've never really looked for this issue.

Is this normal? Do I have perhaps a pilot bearing that is getting grabby? No weird noises, shifts just fine while driving.
 

·
1 of 40,757
Joined
·
6,399 Posts
Shot in the dark. What condition is your shifter bushing isolater cup?
Plastic cup on the ball at the end of your shifter.

Mine is cracked and when oriented incorrectly I believe it might be causing shifts not to be as smooth or as easy as expected.Have a bronze replacement but am concerned it may induce noise.
Considering an original part if noise is annoying.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
I'm going to be tracking the car next weekend so I thought bleeding the clutch master and slave might make some sense. I have a remote bleeder with a one-way valve on the end. I opened the valve and bled out about 4 refills of the master. I never let the fluid go below the bottom of the master reservoir. I closed the bleeder and pumped the clutch a few more times and all seemed fine. That was yesterday.

Today I went to take the car for a spin and couldn't get the car in gear with the engine running and the clutch felt low on the pedal so I pumped the pedal rapidly a few dozen times and the clutch pedal came back and I was able to shift into any gear and while in neutral the car could roll easily by itself. But I still had a hard time getting into reverse but that's not entirely uncommon with my Pro Billet shifter.

After a drive I sat with the car running and shifted through all the gears easily, reverse was easier too, probably because it was all warmed up.

However, and here is my concern, when I shifted out of reverse and into a forward gear all while sitting still, I could hear a clunk in the differential. I'm assuming there is just a very slight drag on the trans while the engine is running. Nothing enough to actually move the car, it would still roll backwards while in a forward gear but with the clutch disengaged for instance, but at least enough drag to take the slop out of the drivetrain. I've never noticed this before but then I've never really looked for this issue.

Is this normal? Do I have perhaps a pilot bearing that is getting grabby? No weird noises, shifts just fine while driving.
Search Drive train for clunk in the trunk, everything anyone ever want's to know. Pilot won't do that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
I'm going to be tracking the car next weekend so I thought bleeding the clutch master and slave might make some sense. I have a remote bleeder with a one-way valve on the end. I opened the valve and bled out about 4 refills of the master. I never let the fluid go below the bottom of the master reservoir. I closed the bleeder and pumped the clutch a few more times and all seemed fine. That was yesterday.

Today I went to take the car for a spin and couldn't get the car in gear with the engine running and the clutch felt low on the pedal so I pumped the pedal rapidly a few dozen times and the clutch pedal came back and I was able to shift into any gear and while in neutral the car could roll easily by itself. But I still had a hard time getting into reverse but that's not entirely uncommon with my Pro Billet shifter.

After a drive I sat with the car running and shifted through all the gears easily, reverse was easier too, probably because it was all warmed up.

However, and here is my concern, when I shifted out of reverse and into a forward gear all while sitting still, I could hear a clunk in the differential. I'm assuming there is just a very slight drag on the trans while the engine is running. Nothing enough to actually move the car, it would still roll backwards while in a forward gear but with the clutch disengaged for instance, but at least enough drag to take the slop out of the drivetrain. I've never noticed this before but then I've never really looked for this issue.

Is this normal? Do I have perhaps a pilot bearing that is getting grabby? No weird noises, shifts just fine while driving.
It sounds like you're slate cylinder pressure plate throw out bearing are on their way of going out


Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

·
Worthless reject member
Joined
·
40,173 Posts
If you didn't have an issue before, and do now, sounds like air in the system.

A fitting that isn't sealed 100% may let some in.
 

·
GR-RRR!
Joined
·
5,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If you didn't have an issue before, and do now, sounds like air in the system.

A fitting that isn't sealed 100% may let some in.
Yeah, when I went to close the bleeder at the end of the remote bleeder line, it took about two full turns to snug it down, I guess I loosened it more than I thought. That might have allowed some air to get it around the threads. I think I'll check on it again tonight or tomorrow and see if the clutch is soft again. Big concern if it is. Clutch, slave, bleeder and pilot all new quite a few years ago but probably only about 10k or less miles ago. Fluid looked good when I started, not dirty, but the fluid in the jar when I was done had a little white smoky-ness to it. I was REAL hard on the clutch earlier this Spring when I was out testing out the new headers and 1.8 rockers and testing if my 1/4 mile times had improved with those upgrades (it has!).

I recall when I put in the new clutch I had a real hard time getting the slave to bleed completely. No amount of pumping by foot would do it. But when I got down on my knees and pumped the pedal by hand real, real fast it came up pretty quickly. Point being, speedy pumping (heh!, heh!) did the trick which is easier to do by hand than by foot. I'll double check that the bleeder valve is closed tight at the end of my speed bleeder line. No signs of leakage at the bellhousing.
 

·
GR-RRR!
Joined
·
5,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Shot in the dark. What condition is your shifter bushing isolater cup?
Plastic cup on the ball at the end of your shifter.

Mine is cracked and when oriented incorrectly I believe it might be causing shifts not to be as smooth or as easy as expected.Have a bronze replacement but am concerned it may induce noise.
Considering an original part if noise is annoying.
I have a Pro Billet shifter and it honestly doesn't have all that many miles on it. I think the things you are referring to are concerns with a stock shifter? Anyway, my stock shifter took a shit almost completely the day before I put the Pro Billet in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Yeah, when I went to close the bleeder at the end of the remote bleeder line, it took about two full turns to snug it down, I guess I loosened it more than I thought. That might have allowed some air to get it around the threads. I think I'll check on it again tonight or tomorrow and see if the clutch is soft again. Big concern if it is. Clutch, slave, bleeder and pilot all new quite a few years ago but probably only about 10k or less miles ago. Fluid looked good when I started, not dirty, but the fluid in the jar when I was done had a little white smoky-ness to it. I was REAL hard on the clutch earlier this Spring when I was out testing out the new headers and 1.8 rockers and testing if my 1/4 mile times had improved with those upgrades (it has!).

I recall when I put in the new clutch I had a real hard time getting the slave to bleed completely. No amount of pumping by foot would do it. But when I got down on my knees and pumped the pedal by hand real, real fast it came up pretty quickly. Point being, speedy pumping (heh!, heh!) did the trick which is easier to do by hand than by foot. I'll double check that the bleeder valve is closed tight at the end of my speed bleeder line. No signs of leakage at the bellhousing.
White would indicate moisture in the fluid. Did you use new fluid from a sealed container? Reservoir cap sealing? D.O.T. fluid is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere even in a capped bottle.
 

·
GR-RRR!
Joined
·
5,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
White would indicate moisture in the fluid. Did you use new fluid from a sealed container? Reservoir cap sealing? D.O.T. fluid is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere even in a capped bottle.
Yes, new fluid from a sealed container. Reservoir cap is sound and snug.
 

·
Worthless reject member
Joined
·
40,173 Posts
I have a Pro Billet shifter and it honestly doesn't have all that many miles on it. I think the things you are referring to are concerns with a stock shifter? Anyway, my stock shifter took a shit almost completely the day before I put the Pro Billet in.
Thr shifter cup is part of the offset lever in the trans, so unless your aftermarket shifter replaces it, you probably still have the stock one. From pics on google, looks like the pro billet still uses it. Most folks just get the brass replacement from tick.
 

·
GR-RRR!
Joined
·
5,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thr shifter cup is part of the offset lever in the trans, so unless your aftermarket shifter replaces it, you probably still have the stock one. From pics on google, looks like the pro billet still uses it. Most folks just get the brass replacement from tick.
Oh, I thought we were talking about a part in the shifter. I remember my stock shifter literally coming apart and not being able to shift from one gear to another. I'll have to look into the brass cup being mentioned. Sure is a PITA to remove the shifter though.

Anyway, I visited the GTO and the clutch was high and tight. I started it up and I got no clunking between reverse and first or back. I guess I must have had a little air in the system before. I hand pumped the pedal about 3 dozen times just to make sure. No bubbles in the reservoir. I double checked the bleeder valve, closed up nice and tight. I'll just bet I had the bleeder screw turned out too far and let air get in around the threads.
 

·
GR-RRR!
Joined
·
5,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I just bought the Tick bronze shifter cup.
 

·
GR-RRR!
Joined
·
5,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
How is this cup lubricated? Does it just get transmission fluid on it from the splashing around inside the trans? Just wondering how I should lubricate it when I install it. Point being, do I need to grease it or just let it get lubed by the transmission fluid splash?
 

·
Worthless reject member
Joined
·
40,173 Posts
How is this cup lubricated? Does it just get transmission fluid on it from the splashing around inside the trans? Just wondering how I should lubricate it when I install it. Point being, do I need to grease it or just let it get lubed by the transmission fluid splash?
i have never installed one, but you'd be surprised how much fluid gets in that shifter area. i would just make sure it gets a good coating of atf after installation to start it off.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
150 Posts
I've read on here of guys having a noise from a vibration because of the metal on metal contact. Greasing it quieted it down but who knows how long it lasted
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
131 Posts
How is this cup lubricated? Does it just get transmission fluid on it from the splashing around inside the trans? Just wondering how I should lubricate it when I install it. Point being, do I need to grease it or just let it get lubed by the transmission fluid splash?
It's Bronze, which is self lubricating. I put a thin film of Lithium grease on the shifter ball that sits in it when I assembled it.
 

·
GR-RRR!
Joined
·
5,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
When you get it can you measure the length of it? That was the one measurement I didn't get when I put a new plastic one in.
You can subtract .010 from this one as I see I didn't have it in the tips of the caliper.
502437


502438


502439


502440
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top