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You should set up to tune the car yourself Rich. The way things are going in the hot rod world it might be best to have the stuff on hand even if you pay someone to help you.

I'm impressed that you have 11 pages of blower thread and no blower installed yet. ;)
 

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My opinion also. Or at least the knowledge to look over/adjust the tune. I was doing mine till it was easier to get it done in one sitting vs weeks of driving
After learning what it takes to tune a car. I'm working on my second tune now with boost thrown in. It was a huge learning lesson for what you get when you pay a professional tuner 500+ dollars.

In the grand scheme of things there is no way they can do a "full" tune in a 3 hour or so dyno session. A lot of guys including myself wind up driving around with half assed VE tables and trims running out to the max. But they can make it make big power and should be safe. Which it seems is what most customers want.

Street tuning to make it the best it can be will take some time but I think it's worth it in the end.
 

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So what is the best version to get and where to buy? And do you have to buy credits every time you want to load an updated tune?
Credits per vin number and then you can tune that vin number forever. I believe GM is two credits per vin. 80 bucks for two.

You want an early HP tuners cable or you can run an MPVI 2 but you want the software version to be pre 4.1x
 

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10 comes after 8 confusing I know if going by alpha numeric.
 

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$100 to tune a GM vehicle.

Please elaborate on why you want the software to be pre 4.1? I routinely update mine to the latest and have zero issues whatsoever.
I'm going off of what a local tuner to me was telling me so I don't have it for factual verification. He just told me to not update to 4.10 because it has limitations in it to appease the E p A.
I believe he said that there are limitations to disabling DTCs which could be a pain in the ass.

If I am wrong on this I would absolutely eat my words and stand corrected.

Regardless it's only a matter of time before HP tuners gets seriously neutered IMO.

Thanks for correcting me on the credit pricing. Goes to show how long it's been since I've looked.
 

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I've also noticed what fox posted above. If this is even mentioned on hp tuners forum they delete it.
 

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shady stuff, but i guess they're doing it to try to fly as far under the radar as they can. i don't really blame them.
I think they're trying to sell as many units as they can before they get shut down lol.
 

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I know exactly which soft FAST button head screws you are talking about Rich. A pro tip we use at work is to take a die grinder or dremel and cut a slot in the bad button head across the top of it and then take a sharp meaty flat blade screw driver to it. Preferably a Snap on or one with a shank you can put a wrench on to help turn it. That works 95% of the time for us. No screw extractor needed.
 

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lol I edited the hell out of that. I often type faster than my brain which is not good.
 

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I am absolutely shocked that it's not on the engine yet!
 

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Even the tiny in comparison LSA is pretty heavy. I'd have to guess around 100lbs including all the intercooler plumbing.

I was just giving you a hard time Rich as I knew you already had the engine prepped. I'd have a hard time resisting lol.
 

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Rich in all seriousness if you put the stock rockers on and took the valve cover spacers out with the amount of potential boost there you'd never know the difference.
 

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Another possible option as I like to think outside the box a bit. Take the steel fitting off thats pointing at the valve cover and put a pipe plug in the bottom of the fuel rail. Take the brass plug out of the side of the rail that's just above it(I'm assuming for reading fuel pressure) and open that up. Re-tap to the according size and put the 90 fitting in there pointing forwards.
 

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I'm still trying to figure out why they thought that was a great spot for the fuel feed in the first place.
 

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This is probably a long shot but is there anyway you could point the 90 elbow inboard towards the blower and then send the hose out the front on the inboard side of the #1 injector? You would probably have to take the rail loose point and torque the 90 fitting and the 90 hose fitting first and then put the fuel rail back on.
 

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You can absolutely pull the fuel pump relay. I don't remember what it's position is.

Deltran sells a bolt on pigtail for their chargers that is like 18 inches long. It's what I use anyways.

Looks like you've come a long ways.
 

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I have a new in box Edelbrock reservoir if you decide it's something you want to play around with Rich.
 

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What's it look like?
FWIW I am running a CTS-V coolant T reservoir which is tiny in comparison but once the system is bled it works just fine.

I guess you just have to ask yourself if you are ever going to run ice in the tank or not. If not that I don't really think size matters.

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