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2006 Pontiac GTO
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I ordered an AFR gauge today from Speedhut. Will be built to match my existing boost gauge and then also my stock gauges.
you can order that directly from their website? I don’t see any GTO specific stuff. Thought that we had to go through mavman.
 

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Discussion Starter · #543 ·
you can order that directly from their website? I don’t see any GTO specific stuff. Thought that we had to go through mavman.
Yes, you can order through their site. One of the choices is to add a logo. You can supply your own logo image to use. You even get to chose how large it is and where on the face it will appear. Before they make your gauge they send you the artwork to sign off on before they "print" it and build your gauge. Costs $20 extra.
 

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Discussion Starter · #548 ·
Go make boost noises on Wednesday
Thinkin' about it. Wish that weather would hit on a weekend. But will be cold again by next weekend. Sucks getting a project done just as Winter sets in. I don't have a heated garage so doing "Winter" projects don't usually get started until at least March or April. And I wanna do those control arm bushings and that will be some serious garage time so it will have to be at least 50 degrees out before I'll go lie on that garage floor. I did buy a set of rear cradle bolts from Wretched this week. I've had those throw away bolts in and out a few times over the years so it is time to replace them with something better, especially since I'll be punishing the rear suspension and drivetrain more than ever next Spring.
 

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next thing you know he will be doing pullies and a magnavolt, maybe have a small fuel system existential crisis.

then he will blow his motor and get a 454 lsx built.

then a tvs 2650.

then he will blow his rear end up.

then an 8.8 or 9 inch setup.

he will have found it impossible to launch his manual with all of that power, and decide on a built 4l80 with a gargantuan stall.

somewhere in all that mess he will minitub, get gforce rear coilovers and modified rear control arms.

he might run 8's.

i guess we'll see where this all ends.
I was thinking the 454 LSx was a bit much, uuuuntil I watched a YouTube video with an 06 Goat that had it. My Lawd!
 

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Discussion Starter · #550 ·
After the tuning session to find the missing HP/TQ, it was night time. Then the weather turned cold so I was not able to get an in-car video of how the car is running with the full maggie power on tap. It got into the 40s today so here's the video I got. Running real nice. In these clips, I'm hitting 100 at the top of 3rd, on the third run I take it up to 120-125 using 4th. I'm not launching real hard, some wheel hop and if I launch hard it is just is all wheel spin. Some of that is the 102 added HP and some is the old Summer only tires in 40 degree weather and some is crappy pavement in most places around here now.

Regardless of the traction issues, it has become quite clear that the new found HP has created a real problem of wheel hop. I never really had much of an issue with wheel hop in this car, now it is pretty easy to find. I hope the poly bushings for the rear control arms helps with that. I don't want to do drag bags so if that doesn't help, I guess I'll have to look into getting a set of those anti-wheel hop half shafts. And you know, once again I forgot to turn up the rear Konis to full stiff to see if that would help. I think I have them set at full soft or close to it right now.

 

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Discussion Starter · #552 · (Edited)
what rear springs do you run?

might consider getting dual adjustable shocks in the rear.
Springs are Lovells 20mm drop springs.

I've always heard that Viking shocks are really good. Can't find Koni double adjustables but QA1 and Viking look to be options. I have QA1 shocks on the wagon and am generally happy with them, but I've heard so much about Vikings I think I'd try them if I decide to go that route. And they are made here in the US so that's a bonus.

But I really owe it to myself to try a stiffer setting on the Koni shocks I have before I go spending more money. I know they say they are single adjustable and on the rebound side only, but I do know that the time I left the autocross with them all set to full stiff my kidneys were about to rupture on the way home due to road imperfections. It was so bad I had to pull off and soften up the shocks just to get home without a detour to the emergency room. Personally, I think while they are single adjustable, they simply adjust compression and rebound at the same time. My kidneys agree with that assessment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #553 ·
The replacement idler pulley finally arrived the other day. It was in the 40's today so I put the new one on. Boy, the old one turns kind of crunchy, glad it got replaced. Amazed that it wasn't making noise. I also took the opportunity to tidy up the fuel line, wiring and hose routings up front while I was in there. I had created a bad routing of the driver's side injector and coil harness where it passes by the front crossover fuel line fitting so I was glad to get that improved. I also tidied up the wiring and hoses and such where they pass under the jackshaft and throttle body.

I'm going to pull that old pulley apart and see if I can determine if it is beyond repair or can be salvaged with a little grease which it lost somewhere along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #554 ·
So this arrived today. Ordered it in early December and then Fed Ex took it on a tour around about 3/4s of the country but it got here in one piece. I'll have to add the disc to the middle of the pointer hub and then figure out how to install it and get all the wiring hooked up. This one can be wired to the throttle and only turn the warning light on when at full throttle, which is a nice feature. You can set the warning light to come on at whatever number you chose, tuner says I should set it to warn at 11.7-11.8. Aside from the sending unit data and the illumination data there are still about half a dozen wires to hook up to make it work that way though.


Kitchen appliance Tableware Fluid Amber Ingredient
 

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Discussion Starter · #555 · (Edited)
So, I was reading the instructions for this gauge. To get the full throttle feature to work you have to connect a specific wire to the throttle position sensor. Which wire off the throttle pedal would that be? Seems like that would be the logical place to pick up that signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #559 ·
it just feels real sketchy messing with DBW stuff.
Well, I'm not disconnecting anything, just tapping into the signal. Whichever signal would make it work. I have a question out with Speedhut but I'm not sure how much help they will be.
 
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