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The battle of wits has begun.
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2,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First time driving my GTO as a manual. Whenever I give it full throttle and especially on shifts I get ridiculous metal banging. I assume this is the dreaded wheel hop.

My GTO as an auto with a 3800 stall only had this issue when it would down shift under WOT. But it would only do 1 "bang" then be fine. I spoke to the people that installed my differential (Walt and Frank former "Rocksand Racing") about the "bang" (back in 2010) and they both told me, :dunno:.

I have:
Pedders rear springs and struts
polyurethane rear sub frame bushings
rear control arms have poly urethane bushings
I have a 2004 half shaft on the passenger side and a 2005-2006 half shaft on the driver side. (Essentially a diy anti wheel hop axles.)
I have the polyurethane diff. insert.

What else can I do to mitigate this issue?

Drag bags?

Does this issue even sound like "wheel hop"?
 

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Need To Drive More
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1,458 Posts
Appears to be wheel hop. Get a real anti hop axle.
 

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1 of 40,757
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6,232 Posts
Is there a "oh shit somethings gonna break" vibration to go with the metal banging?



Wheel hop has caused me to do very few burnouts over the last 12 years.
Along with the clutch hydraulics have kept my gto in great shape. :gto_rage:
 

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The battle of wits has begun.
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2,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
wheel hop is more like a dull thudding.

if you here a clanking noise, something's up.
Yeah, more of a clanking. I'm going to inspect all the bolts around my halfshafts / diff. Hope the diff isn't dying.

I've been trying to ignore most of the noises my car makes because:
• Solid motor mounts.
• Drivetrain tunnel around my shifter isn't properly sealed yet.
• I removed the rear seats.
• My exhaust needs to be welded.
• List of excuses.
 

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756 Posts
Did someone say Wheel Hop

 

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Repeat LS3 Swapper
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191 Posts
150,xxx miles on my 04 M6. I've added a LS3, LSA blower, coilovers, Harrop diff, and gforce antiwheelhop axles and I don't have wheelhop, or at least not enough to notice. 275/40 Super sports that slip and slide btw. Everything else is stock, old bushings.

Before these mods, which were done essentially at the same time, I did have JARRING wheelhop (when I had wheelhop I only had coilovers and a cammed LS3 with 255/40 potenzas). This probably doesn't help much.. but just sharing my experience.
 

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The battle of wits has begun.
Joined
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2,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Attempted to repair my clutch fluid leak without separating the transmission from the bell housing... I failed. So I started some of the tear down to do this repair properly.

Took down my exhaust and I started working on the driveshaft when I noticed I had scratch marks on it over my fresh paint. These scratch marks could only have happened if my drive shaft is moving and hitting the underside of the GTO. I took a closer look at my differential.

Took a photo of one of the bolts...





There is a gap between the bolt and the rear subframe. Under torque my whole damn differential is moving which is causing my single piece driveshaft to smack up against the underside of the car!

When my 1st differential died, I went to Rocksand Racing for a replacement. 01/13/2010. Ever since they installed the 2nd differential my GTO always made a loud "bang" when shifting from 2nd to 3rd under WOT.

Now that my GTO is a manual and making more torque, I assumed this constant banging was wheel hop when it's actually my differential bouncing up and down smacking the driveshaft into the rear seatbelt bolts / frame supports.

My plan / hope is to soak the bolts in PB Blast then attempt to tighten them with a box wrench and a pipe and pray I don't snap them.

I really don't want to lower my subframe to get proper access to the differential.
 

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Pontiac Fanboy
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1,021 Posts
Sucks, but at least your found it.

It's a real pain trying to find a shop that cares about their work. I have yet to find one that didn't half-ass something or screw something up. 90% good isn't 100%.
 

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756 Posts
My plan / hope is to soak the bolts in PB Blast then attempt to tighten them with a box wrench and a pipe and pray I don't snap them.
Might want to try loosening them first after spraying them and kinda work it a bit instead of just going straight to "tighten like a mf'er" mode.
 

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There's more than likely a reason why they weren't tightened completely. I'd try to get them out before cracking them off in the threads.
Might consider using a washer as a spacer instead of breaking them attempting to thread them down the rest of the way.
 

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Hell pecker yeah
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7,147 Posts
I've removed and installed quite a few GTO diffs and I have always found that the thread locker that the factory used to be a pain in the ass. I always chased the threads on the bolts and the holes in the diff housing, blew everything out with air and made sure it was all clean. Then on reassembly I would use fresh blue Loctite. I would recommend doing that. Unfortunately you will have better success if you remove the whole diff to do that. Looks like it needs to be done though.
 

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Need To Drive More
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1,458 Posts
Removing the diff isn't difficult. Suggest removing the entire diff to do what Corndog mentioned, and get new bolts.
 

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Premium Member
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36,118 Posts
Attempted to repair my clutch fluid leak without separating the transmission from the bell housing... I failed. So I started some of the tear down to do this repair properly.

Took down my exhaust and I started working on the driveshaft when I noticed I had scratch marks on it over my fresh paint. These scratch marks could only have happened if my drive shaft is moving vertically. I took a closer look at my differential.

Took a photo of one of the bolts...





There is a gap between the bolt and the rear subframe. Under torque my whole damn differential is moving which is causing my single piece driveshaft to smack up against the underside of the car!

When my 1st differential died, I went to Rocksand Racing for a replacement. 01/13/2010. Ever since they installed the 2nd differential my GTO always made a loud "bang" from the rear when hitting the throttle and getting the car to down shift from 3rd to 2nd. But that's the only time it would do it. I asked about it, and I always got the "I don't know" response.

Now that my GTO is a manual and making more torque, I assumed this constant banging was wheel hop when it's actually my differential bouncing up and down smacking the driveshaft into the rear seatbelt bolts / frame supports.

My plan / hope is to soak the bolts in PB Blast then attempt to tighten them with a box wrench and a pipe and pray I don't snap them.
Holeee crap.

Dat rust is gonna be a problem.
 

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Premium Member
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PB blaster and a little heat, and tighten/loosen/tighten/loosen until you get it kinda free.

Then cross your fingers.

The bolt head is more likely to round off before anything snaps. Try using a 6pt box end of a combo wrench, and link another combo wrench on the open end for leverage.
 

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756 Posts
Try using a 6pt box end of a combo wrench, and link another combo wrench on the open end for leverage.
Yea you're gonna have to link some wrenches regardless of the rust
 

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I deserve to be BLOWN!!!
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1,481 Posts
Yes, please remove and reinstall with new bolts, clean up the rust and chase the threads. Do it once and never worry about it again.
Glad you figured it out. Even more glad you posted the end results for future GTO folks!

Good luck
 
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