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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting my car tuned tomorrow and I'm trying not to forget anything. I'm open suggestions, because I dont want to go there with just the generic "Dude, make it faster!". I'm scheduled for 2hrs work, both on the dyno and then logging while driving around. It should be a mild day tomorrow - 80F and about 500' elevation, so I hope heat soak doesn't come into play. I only have a few mods: JBA Shorts/Catted mids and a X-Air CAI. I also have a 1-pc Hinson Driveshaft and a fresh set of TR-5 plugs (not that either of those will do diddly for HP on a dyno)

Things on my list so far:
Change fan turn on temps to 195F (1st) / 210F (2nd)
Remove CAGS (1-4 shift prompt)
Ask about torque management (lots of opinions on if it exists on a M6 or not)
Ask for a baseline dyno run with stock tune to see where I'm at.
Ask if the tune will be 'locked' by him (forcing me to come back to him specifically)
Ask about future discounts, in case I go crazy and do something like FI.

Please reply with other suggestions you might have.
 

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I'm getting my car tuned tomorrow and I'm trying not to forget anything. I'm open suggestions, because I dont want to go there with just the generic "Dude, make it faster!". I'm scheduled for 2hrs work, both on the dyno and then logging while driving around. It should be a mild day tomorrow - 80F and about 500' elevation, so I hope heat soak doesn't come into play. I only have a few mods: JBA Shorts/Catted mids and a X-Air CAI. I also have a 1-pc Hinson Driveshaft and a fresh set of TR-5 plugs (not that either of those will do diddly for HP on a dyno)

Things on my list so far:
Change fan turn on temps to 195F (1st) / 210F (2nd)
Remove CAGS (1-4 shift prompt)
Ask about torque management (lots of opinions on if it exists on a M6 or not)
Ask for a baseline dyno run with stock tune to see where I'm at.
Ask if the tune will be 'locked' by him (forcing me to come back to him specifically)
Ask about future discounts, in case I go crazy and do something like FI.

Please reply with other suggestions you might have.
how is it being tuned? HPTuners? ive not heard of anyone locking tunes

still not seeing anything for torque management on the M6. the only thing i found was settings for the ETC (electronic throttle control) but i believe thats only with TC enabled, even found an old thread here that said the same thing.

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If you have changed your tire size you can calibrate your speedo I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you have changed your tire size you can calibrate your speedo I believe.
Good point. I have 245's on the rear, and there might be a tiny adjustment to be made there.

This is the guy I'm using. I -think- he used to do tuning at SNL. Calibrated by Karger

I'm also still on stock valvetrain, so I'm not sure raising the rev limiter is right for me, right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm going to agree with you, Sacrifice - I chased old threads about whether it exists or not, and you're probably right about it only being relevant with TC turned on. Others say AT cars have different settings to help preserve the transmission life, but that's not me. I'll just point blank ask and see what he says.

Thanks for the replies so far!
 

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Novice here saying that torque management on an m6 lies in the clutch push/pull assembly, specifically your foot.
 

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Everything you and others have posted should be standard operating procedure for anyone who’s familiar with LS tuning.

Tunes can be locked, but it’s extremely rare that anyone does that anymore. Also, almost every good tuner out there will offer you a discount on future tunes as long as you stay within the same category. I.E. - Go FI and you’re paying for a full new tune (and sometimes even more).

Good luck and have fun.
 
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DFCO, deceleration fuel cut off, can be adjusted to reduce or almost eliminate the popping on deceleration. It becomes very pronounced when long tubes and a loud cat back are added. My SLP long tubes and Corsa were loud pre tune. After tuning, it was settled in nicely. I get some gurgle on deceleration, but not the annoying backfiring type popping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
James is a great tuner! He took the reins after I left and I've heard nothing but good things. Tell him Matt says hi!
That's great to hear and inspires confidence. I'll certainly let him know you said Hi. I'm meeting him at a shop in Denton.

DFCO, deceleration fuel cut off, can be adjusted to reduce or almost eliminate the popping on deceleration. It becomes very pronounced when long tubes and a loud cat back are added. My SLP long tubes and Corsa were loud pre tune. After tuning, it was settled in nicely. I get some gurgle on deceleration, but not the annoying backfiring type popping.
Good point. With shorties, mine pops a little during engine braking and downshifting (like when I'm turning into a residential street). I'll ask him, and thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes :)
The tuning went fine final results were 375hp/376tq. He adjusted my fans, removed CAGS, and confirmed there is such a thing as torque management, and proceeded to rattle off 3 places in HPTuners that he changes values that affect it. We talked about DFCO, and he said that I'd lose some of my engine braking on downshift if I had it removed, and I do utilize it, so I left it enabled.
The car just seems to idle so much smoother and it pulls hard. It's been raining daily here, so I really haven't pushed the car since its been tuned. We also talked a little about Intake Air Temps, and he showed me the table where the stock tune starts pulling timing at 80*F, and he revised that across all of the cells. My IAT sensor is plugged into a grommet in my X-Air, and he advised me to consider moving it somewhere cooler (zip tied to the coolant reservoir tower, or something far away from the heat). His logic is that the air moves through the intake so quickly, that it's relatively cool, but the sensor sits there and soaks up the heat from both the heated up plastic of the X-Air, as well as hot temps rising from the radiator. I'm considering it because honestly I had it setup that way for ~1 a year and it ran fine. I just moved it for neatness.

The only downside is about 1hr later, it started throwing a code for Knock Sensor Low Circuit Input (P0327). I'm still happy though. I'll start a different thread about that issue.
Dyno_Run_GTO_May_25_2021.jpg
 

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Yes :)
The tuning went fine final results were 375hp/376tq. He adjusted my fans, removed CAGS, and confirmed there is such a thing as torque management, and proceeded to rattle off 3 places in HPTuners that he changes values that affect it. We talked about DFCO, and he said that I'd lose some of my engine braking on downshift if I had it removed, and I do utilize it, so I left it enabled.
The car just seems to idle so much smoother and it pulls hard. It's been raining daily here, so I really haven't pushed the car since its been tuned. We also talked a little about Intake Air Temps, and he showed me the table where the stock tune starts pulling timing at 80*F, and he revised that across all of the cells. My IAT sensor is plugged into a grommet in my X-Air, and he advised me to consider moving it somewhere cooler (zip tied to the coolant reservoir tower, or something far away from the heat). His logic is that the air moves through the intake so quickly, that it's relatively cool, but the sensor sits there and soaks up the heat from both the heated up plastic of the X-Air, as well as hot temps rising from the radiator. I'm considering it because honestly I had it setup that way for ~1 a year and it ran fine. I just moved it for neatness.

The only downside is about 1hr later, it started throwing a code for Knock Sensor Low Circuit Input (P0327). I'm still happy though. I'll start a different thread about that issue.
View attachment 509252
Hmm id be curious about the torque management.

Nice results though. Id leave dfco enabled as well. IAT should heat soak, just as the intake does. With a fast iat it shouldnt make enough of a difference to leave it in the intake where it really should be
 

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The tuning went fine final results were 375hp/376tq. He adjusted my fans, removed CAGS, and confirmed there is such a thing as torque management, and proceeded to rattle off 3 places in HPTuners that he changes values that affect it. We talked about DFCO, and he said that I'd lose some of my engine braking on downshift if I had it removed, and I do utilize it, so I left it enabled.

The car just seems to idle so much smoother and it pulls hard. It's been raining daily here, so I really haven't pushed the car since its been tuned. We also talked a little about Intake Air Temps, and he showed me the table where the stock tune starts pulling timing at 80*F, and he revised that across all of the cells. My IAT sensor is plugged into a grommet in my X-Air, and he advised me to consider moving it somewhere cooler (zip tied to the coolant reservoir tower, or something far away from the heat). His logic is that the air moves through the intake so quickly, that it's relatively cool, but the sensor sits there and soaks up the heat from both the heated up plastic of the X-Air, as well as hot temps rising from the radiator. I'm considering it because honestly I had it setup that way for ~1 a year and it ran fine. I just moved it for neatness.
better late to find out about all of that stuff than never.

The only downside is about 1hr later, it started throwing a code for Knock Sensor Low Circuit Input (P0327). I'm still happy though. I'll start a different thread about that issue.
View attachment 509252

why didn't he use SAE correction?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
why didn't he use SAE correction?
Unknown. He rents dyno time at a shop he did the tuning at. I suspect it wouldn't have made much of a difference, as the temp/pressure were close to SAE assumptions. Humidity was higher.

In the end, I'm not interested in 'racing dynosheets' and am content to let him use it for what he needs it for - A tuning tool.
 

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Unknown. He rents dyno time at a shop he did the tuning at. I suspect it wouldn't have made much of a difference, as the temp/pressure were close to SAE assumptions. Humidity was higher.
STD isn't uncorrected. It will convert from current conditions to those specified by the STD correction, iirc.
 

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Congrats on the results! Very cool work

Yeah, SAE is the standard. STD is for the weak (might get higher numbers, however not as normalized, numbers fluctuate wildly) - SAE uses more advanced correction factors, my general understanding.

It takes two seconds to convert it on their computer, both graphs, it's only an output. Just do it. :coffee:
 
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