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Seeking additional traction..
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I just finished up doing this with the OP's list. Ordered everything on his list and went to it. I added a 36" length of DEI sleeving to the pressure side as it is closer to the headers. I left enough slack in the lines to drop the rack without disconnecting anything. No leaks to be found but keeping a cautious eye on it before I say its all good. I watched the video from Summit racing on doing the teflon lines and it was pretty straightforward. No issues making the lines. I have a set of cable cutters for the fat 1/0 gauge for the cuts.

Issues I ran in to-
1. The lower (19mm) low pressure return fitting did not thread in very far. I think I got 2 full turns until it bottomed out, about 8 threads showing, whereas the top (16mm) only has two threads still showing. The pump fitting went in as far as the 16mm rack fitting. It was just the fat one that gives me the uneasy feeling.
2. I made my lines too long. I had a little more than a foot left. I pulled the low pressure line slack around the front and to the pass side of the oil pan. The pressure side I just pulled into the engine mount area making sure not to put to much bend in it. If you do this with 6' of line it will be closer. I'll end cutting mine back eventually.
3. I attached the new lines to the rack while it was down so I wasn't thinking of alignment once mounted. I should have angled the fitting more horizontal to keep the lines as far away from the header primaries (Kooks 1-7/8). I have 3/4" but it could another inch with fitting adjustment. I was done with it today and will fix it down the line at some point.

It's raining so I didn't drive it around to see if it felt any different. With wheels in the air it would "stutter" when doing left to right lock turns. Put the car down and the stutter was gone. Figure the air will work it's way out. I did motor off turns till bubble ceased and then did it with the motor running. Took 1/2 qt to fill the system. The untrained eye would never spot them but the trained eye would.

I also left the stock lines in place but will remove them once I know there aren't any leaks.





 

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Eve the LS1der
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888 Posts
as previously mentioned, I would be another guy that would offer a premium price for a pre- assembled lines and fittings. I would trust someone that is much more experienced at fitting SS lines so they are leak free than my own novice hands.

PM me and we can talk price!
 

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Eve the LS1der
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888 Posts
Going to do this mod this weekend. I just got under the car and actually measured out the high pressure from the pump to the 16 mm top side of the rack and the weird routing has me totaling about 75 inches of SS line to follow the " factory" hard line to rubber expansion loop thingy back to hard line along the oil pan and then to the pump. Any issues with just taking a straight shot and shortening up the hose length. Does that additional length actually help with cooling? Why the heck is it's routed that way in the first place?
 

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6.6 Litres of Doom
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2,242 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Routed that way because of it being RHD in Australia. Mine are run straight to the rack.
 

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Eve the LS1der
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888 Posts
Ok, so I did the two lines a to the Rack his weekend and for the most part it's pretty straight forward. I would REALLY encourage you all to drop the rack to make the new fittings go on easier! It can be done without taking it down. I also had a heck of a time getting the two cross over pipes that connect to the pump and the cooler fittings to come out once I disconnected them. I ended hacking most of it up and pulled it out in pieces.....sooooo the an fittings I made better not leak :). Now onto some length estimates

The lower fitting to the ps cooler was 40" long and about perfect length
The pump to the rack upper fitting I made 36 inches and it could be made shorter, by about a foot, but I just liked having a little extra just in case I did needed to drop the rack some day.



I also found out that I had enough extra to make a line to the ps cooler and back to the ps reservoir which means I had to order more fittings

2 x RUS-620401 (Straight -6 hose end) - End of braided line before it goes into rubber line leading to the p/s cooler and the reservoir rubber line
2x RUS-670300 (Straight -6 to hose barb) - Braided line to rubber hose

What did you all do to get all of the air out of the lines?
 

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right foot maniac
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1,696 Posts
1 put the car up on stands,2 fill ps tank up,3 start car and slowly turn steering wheel left & right to lock while adding fluid to tank into you can't add anymore in no more bubbles come up
 

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Red'uns are Faster
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190 Posts
Those look really good! I also really like the motor mounts, where did you get them?
 

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I have been thinking about doing this for quite a while. As some people near me that have failed at installing headers ruining the lines, then i get a phone call for help lol. If its cost effective I might have some made at the parker store because its right by the house.

Great writeup man
 

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I've got almost everything as far as info neede to do this project. Only question I have is do you "have" to lift the engine out to do this? Great write up btw
 

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I've got almost everything as far as info neede to do this project. Only question I have is do you "have" to lift the engine out to do this? Great write up btw
No, my buddy did his incar. He said it was a PITA, but I wasn't around for the actual install. I'll pick his brain, and tell him to PM you.
 

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I've got almost everything as far as info neede to do this project. Only question I have is do you "have" to lift the engine out to do this? Great write up btw

I copied everything in the OPs post when I did mine. No need to lift engine. Look for my write up - lots o pics.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Does anyone know the part numbers for the 45 degree angle as the op suggested using instead of the (3) 90 degree pieces.
 

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Wow, I am so glad I found this thread. I just ordered the fittings and line as stated in OP's first post. I'm going to assemble and install this to hopefully cure my leak at the return line connection to the rack.

This should be pinned to the top!
 

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2005 Pontiac GTO
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After posting about this in the Texas section, and seeing how many people in there expressed interest in doing this mod, I figured I'd go ahead and post this information here so more people had easy access to it.

End product:


Parts list:
2 x EAR-991955ERL (M16x1.50 o-ring to -6AN Male) - one for pump output, other for rack input (top fitting on rack)
1 x EAR-991956ERL (M18x1.50 o-ring to -6AN Male) - lower fitting on rack
3 x RUS-620421 (90 degree -6 hose ends) - Both rack ports, pressure side of pump hose ends. While these will work, and are what I used, if you can find high pressure 45* fittings it would work out better to use them for the rack fittings instead of 90* (so 2x 45* and 1 90* for pump output)
1 x RUS-620401 (Straight -6 hose end) - End of braided line before it goes into rubber line leading to the p/s cooler
RUS-670300 (Straight -6 to hose barb) - Braided line to rubber hose, to connect to factory p/s cooler line
RUS-632620 (10ft pre-cut power steering line) As this was my first time making braided line, I got a bit extra, plus I wanted to have some slack so I wouldn't have to undo the fittings on the rack to drop it. You should be able to get away with using a 6' length (RUS-632610) if you're confident with your line making abilities.

Subtotal on Jeg's shows $141.91 with 10ft of hose, $124.91 with 6ft of hose.

I would also recommend picking up RUS-671570, it's a combo package of AN hose assembly lubricant and thread sealer. You'll have plenty left over, but both items are handy to have if you work on cars much. It's $11.99.
Instead of using the RUS-620401 (Straight -6 hose end) and RUS-670300 (Straight -6 to hose barb), can I use the RUS-624013 hose barb to -6AN hose end fitting? Also, can't find the combo package RUS-671570, but Summit has AN hose assembly lube and thread sealer in a few brands.

I also found the Russell brand equivalents to the Earl's fittings. They are RUS-648060 for the M16x1.50 o-ring to -6AN Male fitting and RUS-648080 for the M18x1.50 o-ring to -6AN Male fitting. They have a zinc finish instead of blue anodized.

Thanks,

Greg
 

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Most available PTFE hose ends are reusable with a new "olive", if a line is to long cut it back and reuse the fitting (you did get extra olives right?) Leak free fittings are a pain yet easy at the same time; the steps are simple but PTFE is hell to work with. Wrap with tape, cut in center, I have a 16-18" bolt cutter that work up to -4AN, my other is a 36 and not worth fooling with, just to cumbersome. What the small cutters can't do I use a good cold chisel, hammer and anvil, just be sure the chisel is sharp and at least half again wider than the hose, enough hammer to cut through in one lick and get it square. Slip the female end of the fitting on the hose before you remove the tape. It's easiest to push an appropriate size screw driver or the like into the liner then peel the braid back and you have to get it all; anything left between the ferrule and liner will cause a leak. This also rounds the liner making it easier to use the olive. Push the liner straight into the olive until it visibly bottoms and is straight. Use a touch of lube on the threads, push the male fitting cleanly into the liner, if you catch an edge or otherwise screw it up take it apart and fix the liner, if you have to cut it back much you have to cut the braid as well. Be sure all is straight and true, most leaks come from misalignment. Start the female end a few threads and check the line up again. Then while threading the thing together push the hose into the fitting on hold it there, it requires some force, hold the end in a vise is best. This is important, as you screw it in it is easy to push the inner assembly out rather than into the part. Don't stop turning until you feel the thread bottom completely. Steel is NBD, aluminum is very easy to cross a thread and trash the whole thing. I imagine with help it goes fairly well, I wouldn't know, I work alone.
For what it's worth I run the pressure and return parallel bypassing the pos factory cooler, route the return through the gap in the core support (DS @ half way down the radiator) use a Hayden cooler (6'x11", something like that, about 30 bucks) and bring the return back through the same gap to the reservoir. It is several feet shorter, you use just one route to/from the rack and the factory cooler is that only in the sense that the part number says it's one, the Hayden is a significant upgrade. The cooler has 3/8" barbed ends for soft lines but plenty of free length, more than enough to cut the barbs off and use 3/8" compression x -6AN PTFE male adapters, hose clamps do not work on PTFE, period. The 45 degree els are a must have, get them to start with.
If you make up your own hoses this costs around $100 (not including the cooler) If you have them made to fit you must have a better tape measure and deeper pockets than I. ?
 

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Nobody mentions filter(s) on low pressure return line, why?
Saw at least one mention cooler other than radiator, why not more thoughts, Heat Exchangers, chillers, etc ?
I am tired of keeping engine clean and sparkling and then seeing or knowing diarrhea in reservoir, am I alone on this?
No mention of reducing heat soak, move battery to trunk and get OTRCAI intake. There is oem outside air intake in oem original air box! Mod the battery area (open up a air intake there). What is temp on P/S fluid?. I've seen alternators with fan working from pulley, how about P/S pump with fan, A/C uses clutch logic - can this logic be applied to P/S pump - activated when we turn steering wheel. Anybody ever try doing any of this? If so, pls share, I never re-invent the wheel unless I am sure nobody has tried to before me.

Reason I ask is my builder will be pulling my engine and trans out shortly for mods, bolt ons and whatever other crazy stuff I want done or he wants to try. He used to own title of Fastest GTO in SC. Well someone beat his time (I showed him link). Well supposedly he spun a bearing and flattened a lope on his cam, That's the story he gave me, IMO he is doing whatever it takes to regain his title again. I am proud to be his buddy and hopefully soon his friend also.
 
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