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It is more to it than that. Generators have large permanent magnets. Alternators use a field coil in place of the magnets. Alternators also can use smaller wire for the rotor assembly. Generators, can make more current, but they are heavier and don't respond well to changes in rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
permanent magnet or field coil has more to do with size, cost, application and era of construction than what the device is called.

but if this is such a big deal to you, call all the OE's and tell them they are wrong.
 

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Guys let's not get bogged down in semantics here, this is supposed to be a helpful guide for troubleshooting the electrical system and what you call the damn thing that spins and makes juice really is irrelevant.
 

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Great write up.. Just wanted to mention it seems our starters have a funny way of failing.

Seem many are getting, an often random, "ONE CLICK" and no start issue.

At first you can wait a few seconds and try it again and it will crank.

No matter what once you get it to crank you can't replicate the problem for a while and the car will start normally. (ESPECIALLY if you take it to a shop.. :) ).

Apparently this is becoming more common. This can be intermittent and last for a week to months. Depending on the starter it would seem.

In my case it was only a week.

I could JUMP the car to get it car started. FYI, jumping ONLY worked with the other car running, seems you need the larger charge of a running motor to get the starter to crank.

Many check battery terminals or the starter terminals for corrosion and resistance and its sometimes the issue.

Some replace batteries and that helps some on a short term basis.

But often those two things don't help.

In my case it was the starter. Should mention its the starter motor itself. The Relay and Solenoid will kick and "CLICK", but starter will not crank.

When I pulled the starter, you could shake it forward and aft and hear the shaft in it moving around. Not so much on new starter.

So unlike what we maybe use to in older cars, the starter fails COLD more often that HOT. Then there is the "One Click" when you try to start it. This makes us think its something other than the starter. Everything from the ignition switch locking problem, to the BCM wire bundle issue (although that should be checked by everyone), to fuel problems, computer issues, neutral safety switches, etc..

But its not, its simply your starter is going bad.

BTW.. should mention you have to remove the head pipe and front catalytic to get the starter out. Not as easy as it would seem and not for the faint of heart, as the head pipe studs are small 8mm studs. Which if anyone has every removed exhaust components knows they are prone to breaking off. So be prepared to have to drill and tap the exhaust manifold studs for new studs when replacing the starter. On the positive side once you remove the head pipe, the exhaust manifold comes off easy.
 

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"DIPSHIT DIRTBAG"
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BTW.. should mention you have to remove the head pipe and front catalytic to get the starter out.
WTF??? Those should have fallen off by now!!
 

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BIIIG no-start problem i feel is not deemed worthy of its own thread. Since the starter is connected to the PCM, and not directly to your ignition switch, turning the key may not turn the car over, especially if your security system is armed. Doors can be unlocked, alarm may not actually be sounding, but if you look at your console during a no-start and see a blinking red light of a car and a lock, take our your key and hit the unlock button on the fob. At least that's all it was for me.
 

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sup guys I just replaced my starter on my 04....the old one was bad but the new one I installed and all I hear is the starter turning. It did touch the flywheel but it looks like it just scratched a couple of teeth. Here is the thing I bought it new and took it back and had it benc tested starter passed.
Here is the other issue im using a honda civic battery rated 500cca when a gto battery is rated 650cca. using the honda battery till I get paid next week. I did hook another 4cyl vehicle up to it to see if it would help and no the starter will not fully engage. Do you guys think I just need a bigger battery or do you think there is another problem.
Alos how many wires should there be for the starter I have the hot and a small little wire. please help im stumped.
 

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sup guys I just replaced my starter on my 04....the old one was bad but the new one I installed and all I hear is the starter turning. It did touch the flywheel but it looks like it just scratched a couple of teeth. Here is the thing I bought it new and took it back and had it benc tested starter passed.
Here is the other issue im using a honda civic battery rated 500cca when a gto battery is rated 650cca. using the honda battery till I get paid next week. I did hook another 4cyl vehicle up to it to see if it would help and no the starter will not fully engage. Do you guys think I just need a bigger battery or do you think there is another problem.
Alos how many wires should there be for the starter I have the hot and a small little wire. please help im stumped.
The battery will start it ok.

Two wires is all it takes ( The big one gets the juice from the battery)

If the starter spins but fails to engage, then they sold you a dud.
 

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Hello there anyone, I'm new on here and new to the world of forums. I bought a 05 goat yellow with 64,000 on it. cosmetically sound and no leaks motor and tranny dry about 6 months ago. ok my issue is whenever I start my goat without stereo, and A/C on. car idles fine but as soon as I push any buttons for even the windows the idle bogs and sputters sometimes even die. but will start right up. its worse when I turn the a/c and or radio on and I have two twelves and 900 amp. bought a cca 640 battery and alt is a 140 amp mitzubishi alternator. my volt gauge on the car isn't very accurate but volts bounce around when I turn on like I mention even the window buttons.. now when I'm on the highway I can have all the stuff on with no problems but once I exit and slow down I know I have to turn everything off get the windows down so I don't look like a fool with a bad idle and my goat shuts off.. can someone please help me I appreciate anyones efforts advise etc..
 

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Hello there anyone, I'm new on here and new to the world of forums. I bought a 05 goat yellow with 64,000 on it. cosmetically sound and no leaks motor and tranny dry about 6 months ago. ok my issue is whenever I start my goat without stereo, and A/C on. car idles fine but as soon as I push any buttons for even the windows the idle bogs and sputters sometimes even die. but will start right up. its worse when I turn the a/c and or radio on and I have two twelves and 900 amp. bought a cca 640 battery and alt is a 140 amp mitzubishi alternator. my volt gauge on the car isn't very accurate but volts bounce around when I turn on like I mention even the window buttons.. now when I'm on the highway I can have all the stuff on with no problems but once I exit and slow down I know I have to turn everything off get the windows down so I don't look like a fool with a bad idle and my goat shuts off.. can someone please help me I appreciate anyones efforts advise etc..

That is weird indeed.

So here is the check list:

-Bad ground to engine
-Bad cable from battery to fuse box
-check your battery poles/ connectors.

There is a secret menu for the cluster, it allows access to a voltmeter and a bunch of other things.

You have to push and hold Mode and Set simultaniously while turning the ignition on.
Then push the more button to step through the individual menu items.

Push the Set button to return to normal cluster mode.

It be interesting to know what it reads when the engine sputters.
 

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thanks for the reply.. I will work on it this weekend. Alternator shop said clutch pulley is bad but I'm skeptical, but got a red top optima and alternator is charging fine according to shop. so a buddy ordered a new alt and I will see if new alt clutch pulley feels the same as mine. but meantime I will check wires and grounds..
 

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ok my alternator is fine but guy said my clutch pulley is bad it pulls one way and ratchets the other way. is this normal?? can someone please help me? I dont want to buy another alternator if I dont have to...
 

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ok my alternator is fine but guy said my clutch pulley is bad it pulls one way and ratchets the other way. is this normal?? can someone please help me? I dont want to buy another alternator if I dont have to...
The pulleys have a over run clutch. No idea how they feel when they go bad.

Alas the symptoms don't sound like the pulley failed. So we need a read from the instrument cluster volt meter to see how many volts are available at idle.

So for reference on my cluster I show ~ 12.4 with engine stopped ( Before starting it and after it was off a while )

At Idle and at any rpm above idle, it shows 14.2 - 14.4, with or without AC, OEM radio etc etc.
 

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I was just wondering if this was ever resolved. I have a very similiar situation. When I have a/c on full blast and try using Windows my voltage drops to as low as 11.2. Car will almost die. At idle with nothing on I sit at 13.7V. Turn on wipers it drops to 13.2 Add blower motor I'm down to 13.0. Then Windows or radio I drop to 11.2 with idle issues until I turn something off.
Having to turn every thing off to roll Windows up is kind of annoying. . Please help. Grounds all were checked.

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