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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 06 Goat just barely has 38k miles on it. Driving it the other day I gradually realized that the clutch engagement zone was getting lower and lower.. Well long story short, I'm 90% sure my slave cylinder is bad. Car is undriveable at this point.
While in there, Im pretty sure I want to replace the clutch. But im having a terrible time deciding. I want a heavier feeling clutch
Ive looked at Monster clutches but honestly I think they may be a bit too pricey for a car thats basically bone stock. Ive read that I could put in an LS7 clutch (using my OG LS2 flywheel im assuming?) but I cant confirm if that would be an upgrade.

Please give me feedback. The car is stock, 400hp and dont plan on doing much yet.

Thanks!
 

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Stock? Put a stock replacement in then. There’s no need for an upgraded clutch unless you plan on power mods in the future. I’ve put over 100k miles on a stock clutch with no issue whatsoever, so it’s perfectly fine for stock power.
 

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I've even read some posts of guys saying that since the Vette is so much lighter than these cars, the LS7 clutch isn't even much of an upgrade. I still got one when I needed a clutch a few years ago though. The 04905 kit comes with a new flywheel btw.
 

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I've even read some posts of guys saying that since the Vette is so much lighter than these cars, the LS7 clutch isn't even much of an upgrade. I still got one when I needed a clutch a few years ago though. The 04905 kit comes with a new flywheel btw.
it is, coming from personal experience, but it's not a "performance clutch" by any means.
 

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Performance Addict
2005 PBM, 6 Speed, corner carver
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Before going too deep into it check the clutch fluid. My guess is it’s black and clumpy looking. I’d suggest using a small Turkey baster and suck as much fluid out of the revisor and possible. Don’t go below the hydraulic line. Fill, pump the pedal a ton; repeat this whole process two to three times or until fluid is clear again.

I did this on mine last fall and it is back to normal operation. I am at 56,000 miles on the stock clutch.
 

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it is, coming from personal experience, but it's not a "performance clutch" by any means.
It has held up with everything I threw at it. Granted I'm not making a ton of power, roughly 420-430rwhp. But it never slipped or has complained at all. Still feels the same as when I installed all those years ago.
 

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The Entenmann's Shim-Sham
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The LS7 clutch was great for me until I swapped camshafts. Then I started having issues shifting at high RPMs.

If you are stock or just have bolt-ons, the LS7 (Luk 04-905) is a great clutch.
 

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I have a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch w/counter weights. Whatever direction you go, I would NOT recommend that. It is holding power great, but after ~10,000 miles or so its started to make some odd noises that I'm not thrilled on and I suspect its their counter weight design. More trouble than its worth.

How do you drive the car? Any track days? If its subject to abuse like that and you are going to drop the tranny I would say its probably worth getting something a little bit stouter than the stock clutch, but maybe that's just my hobbyist bias sneaking through...

In the meantime, some diagnostic work on the hydraulic side of things might be a good place to start. The "turkey baster" procedure described earlier may be a good place to start.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Before going too deep into it check the clutch fluid. My guess is it’s black and clumpy looking. I’d suggest using a small Turkey baster and suck as much fluid out of the revisor and possible. Don’t go below the hydraulic line. Fill, pump the pedal a ton; repeat this whole process two to three times or until fluid is clear again.

I did this on mine last fall and it is back to normal operation. I am at 56,000 miles on the stock clutch.
Id say it was 3 years ago i started sucking the black fluid out, replacing, pumping, sucking, replacing.... until it was mostly clear. Its been a year since I've replaced it. And its still fairly clear a few weeks ago when I checked, definitely cleaner than it was when I first started replacing it.
The other day when my pedal dropped and I check the clutch fluid level, it was nearly empty. I refilled and drove it home and it still as of earlier today is still at the top. So its like it puked all of its fluid and resealed lol. Even if I get the pedal back by cleaning/bleeding the fluid, Im pretty sure the slave cylinder is still bad and won't feel confident it wont fail on me again.
I dont and never have taken it down the strip or around the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Thank you, but these will for sure fit my 06??
The Luk 04905 doesnt come up for my 06 but I see that it comes up for the 04. Itll still be okay?? I have a different Luk part number come up, 04173.
Googling the difference between the 04905 and 04173 is that the 04905 is LS7 and 04713 is LS6.
Sorry if its confusing lol
yes. it should work just fine.
 

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I had a similar issue with my 2006 GTO several years ago, but before I started changing parts I called Tick Performance in North Carolina. Looks like they are still around. Talked to a guy on their tech line who seemed very knowledgeable and came away with the recommendation that my slave was probably fine, but the clutch master cylinder (had a ton of black **** in there) had failing rubber seals. In my case clearing it out with a turkey baster would not have worked because the internal rubber seals were deteriorating. Ended up changing the clutch master cylinder on the firewall, which gave me a firm pedal and corrected my sinking pedal problem. Two years later I had more clutch problems just through regular driving and then I replaced with a stock LUK GM clutch and pressure plate with a Tick slave. No problems since. I have no special interest in Tick Performance and no involvement other than I bought their products and had really good longevity since.
 

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I had a similar issue with my 2006 GTO several years ago, but before I started changing parts I called Tick Performance in North Carolina. Looks like they are still around. Talked to a guy on their tech line who seemed very knowledgeable and came away with the recommendation that my slave was probably fine, but the clutch master cylinder (had a ton of black **** in there) had failing rubber seals. In my case clearing it out with a turkey baster would not have worked because the internal rubber seals were deteriorating. Ended up changing the clutch master cylinder on the firewall, which gave me a firm pedal and corrected my sinking pedal problem. Two years later I had more clutch problems just through regular driving and then I replaced with a stock LUK GM clutch and pressure plate with a Tick slave. No problems since. I have no special interest in Tick Performance and no involvement other than I bought their products and had really good longevity since.

This seems like a great next step. The clutch master could definitely be the issue. I do have the Tick remote bleeder, just haven't installed it yet.

Id say it was 3 years ago i started sucking the black fluid out, replacing, pumping, sucking, replacing.... until it was mostly clear. Its been a year since I've replaced it. And its still fairly clear a few weeks ago when I checked, definitely cleaner than it was when I first started replacing it.
The other day when my pedal dropped and I check the clutch fluid level, it was nearly empty. I refilled and drove it home and it still as of earlier today is still at the top. So its like it puked all of its fluid and resealed lol. Even if I get the pedal back by cleaning/bleeding the fluid, Im pretty sure the slave cylinder is still bad and won't feel confident it wont fail on me again.
I dont and never have taken it down the strip or around the track.
Since you have ruled out the fluid and based upon your driving experience, I would focus on the clutch master, my gut feeling in the internals of the clutch are fine.

Let us know what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I had a similar issue with my 2006 GTO several years ago, but before I started changing parts I called Tick Performance in North Carolina. Looks like they are still around. Talked to a guy on their tech line who seemed very knowledgeable and came away with the recommendation that my slave was probably fine, but the clutch master cylinder (had a ton of black **** in there) had failing rubber seals. In my case clearing it out with a turkey baster would not have worked because the internal rubber seals were deteriorating. Ended up changing the clutch master cylinder on the firewall, which gave me a firm pedal and corrected my sinking pedal problem. Two years later I had more clutch problems just through regular driving and then I replaced with a stock LUK GM clutch and pressure plate with a Tick slave. No problems since. I have no special interest in Tick Performance and no involvement other than I bought their products and had really good longevity since.
Thank you for your input PlexiTim
My fluid is and mostly has been clean for a year now.
When the failure happened and i checked the fluid, it was nearly empty, so i topped it off and its been the same level since. That fluid had to go somewhere. And I realized it probably leaked from the slave cylinder because it is wet and nearly dripping at the very bottom of where the transmission and bellhousing meet. Right below the slave.
If the fluid was constantly getting black and not losing fluid, Id suspect the master cylinder more. Or even leaking from the master. But im still investigating more before I buy parts.
 

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I've even read some posts of guys saying that since the Vette is so much lighter than these cars, the LS7 clutch isn't even much of an upgrade. I still got one when I needed a clutch a few years ago though. The 04905 kit comes with a new flywheel btw.
I'm about to order the 04905 and LSC384, does it come with the correct pilot bearing which would be this one? More information for GM GENUINE CT1078
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That was a good question Jake... so thanks again!

As for an update, I removed the driveshaft without really dropping the exhaust today so making progress. Tomorrow or Saturday I should have the transmission out. I think once I confirm the slave being bad, ill order parts. I'm not really in a rush. And ill know if there's anything else I'm forgetting to order.
 
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