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Discussion Starter #1
i looked all over the forum for strut mount install pics and counldnt find any , does anyone have any or know of a strut mount install pics thread or have any strut mount install pics??
 

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Strut, Strut Component and/or Spring Replacement
Tools Required
J 45400 Strut Spring Compressor

Removal Procedure
•Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
•Use the J 45400 , or equivalent, in order to compress the spring.




Important

Do not grip the strut rod with any tools below the hex shaped portion.

•Use a wrench in order to hold the end of the strut rod shaft (1).
•Remove the strut mount nut (2).
•Remove the strut mount and the 2 washers (3).
•Remove the 2 washers from the strut mount.



Important

Note the orientation of the strut bearing on the upper spring seat. The orientation of the strut bearing is important in the installation procedure.

•Remove the strut bearing (4) from the upper spring seat.



•Remove and discard the strut shield strap (8).
•Remove the upper spring seat (6).
•Remove the spring upper insulator (14).
•Remove the strut bumper (7).
•Use the J 45400 , or equivalent, in order to release the compression on the spring.
•Remove the spring (13).
•Remove and discard the strut shield clamp (11).
•Remove the strut dust shield (9) and filter (10) assembly from the strut.

Installation Procedure



Important

Do not grip the strut rod with any tools below the hex shaped portion.

•Hold the strut rod and the strut housing.
•Pull the strut rod to the maximum length.



•Install the strut dust shield (1) assembly.
•Ensure the filter (2) remains seated inside the boot portion of the strut dust shield.



•Position the strut dust shield on the strut housing tube.
Specification
The distance (a) between the bottom of the strut dust shield and the bottom of the lower spring seat is 30 mm to 35 mm.
•Install a NEW clamp in order to retain the strut dust shield to the strut housing tube.



•Install the spring (13) to the strut housing (12).
Install the straight projecting lower end of the spring to the lower spring seat. •Use the J 45400 , or equivalent, in order to compress the spring.
•Install the strut bumper (7).
•Install the spring upper insulator (14).
Install the step on the upper insulator to the straight projecting upper end of the spring. •Install the upper spring seat (6).
Ensure the double notch in the upper flange of the upper spring seat is on the inboard side of the strut assembly. •Pull the strut rod to the maximum length.
•If the strut rod nut is on the strut rod, remove the strut rod nut.



•Install the strut bearing (4) to the upper spring seat in the same orientation as in the removal procedure.
Ensure the narrow outer section faces towards the upper spring seat collar. •Install the lower washer.
Ensure the dish shape side of the lower washer faces downward. •Install the strut mount.
Ensure the lower washer does not bind with the lower edge of the mount. •Install the upper washer.
Ensure the dish shape side of the upper washer faces upward.
Notice

Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
•Install the strut mount nut (2).
Use a wrench in order to hold the end of the strut rod shaft (1). Tighten
Tighten the nut to 78 N·m (58 lb ft).
•Install the strut dust shield to the upper spring seat.
Fit the upper end of the strut dust shield over the lower flange of the spring seat collar. •Install a NEW strap in order to retain the strut dust shield to the upper spring seat.
•Remove the strut assembly from the J 45400 , or equivalent.
•Install the strut assembly to the vehicle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
when i removed my stock one there was only one washer on the top, the white line mounts that i got have only 1 washer that came with them so i put it on the top just like the stock one was is that ok? i havent installed it in the car yet just put it together
 

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GR-RRR!
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My stockers had one cupped washer below the mount and one on top of the mount. The set I stripped to build my stock/Koni insert hybrids also had cupped washers above and below. My Koni set only came with two new cupped washers for some reason and due to their depth I couldn't tighten the top nut if I used them at the top so I used them at the bottom and reused stock ones on top.

If the strut mount body were to separate from the metal ferrule in the center you will really want the large cupped washers in there to keep things together. I'd suggest using the new washers in addition to reinstalling the stock ones so you have a cupped washer at both ends of the strut mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My stockers had one cupped washer below the mount and one on top of the mount. The set I stripped to build my stock/Koni insert hybrids also had cupped washers above and below. My Koni set only came with two new cupped washers for some reason and due to their depth I couldn't tighten the top nut if I used them at the top so I used them at the bottom and reused stock ones on top.

If the strut mount body were to separate from the metal ferrule in the center you will really want the large cupped washers in there to keep things together. I'd suggest using the new washers in addition to reinstalling the stock ones so you have a cupped washer at both ends of the strut mount.

ok , i will have to take it back apart when i get home tonight before i install them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok, i switched it around and mounted it in the car.

how much does the car drop when the struts collapse?
 

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'12-'13 ScrScca SM Champ
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Whiteline mounts use the supplied cup washer facing down on the bottom of the mount, and an OEM one up top.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Whiteline mounts use the supplied cup washer facing down on the bottom of the mount, and an OEM one up top.
ok thank you , does anyone know how much the car drops when the mount collapse??
 

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GR-RRR!
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Well it depends on how badly they collapse but it can be in the area of 1/4"-1/2", more if they really seriously deteriorate or come apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11
for some reason this happened?
and heres a pic of the old and new strut mounts
 

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I Wanna Go Fast
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Discussion Starter #13

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the endlink was bent , i just bent it back and put it back on the car
That end link will break or at least bend again before long. The stockers are just not very strong.

The strut mount collapsed because, well, that's just what they do. They just don't seem to have been designed to be up to the task of holding up such a heavy car. My car was very well maintained and had fairly low mileage yet the strut mounts had collapsed. They hadn't torn or come apart (yet) but I was glad to get them out of there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i only had time to change out the strut mount when i did it , so when i get the chance im going to change the radius rod bushings , but just changing the strut mount made the car night and day with the handling and stopped the tires from rubbing.
 

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Growing up is an option
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IMHO the entire strut setup doesn't make a lot of sense for a performance car. It's designed to be compact, cheap and eliminate NVH not greatness or even longevity. It's just the way it is now though unfortunately.
 

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Kollar Racing Products
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Its difficult to tell from the picture, but the endlinks look like the have poly bushings installed. There is a reason I dont carry poly bushings for use on the stock endlinks. The endlinks will bend. If your running a stock sway bar bushings the Roadsafe stock replacement endlinks work well. If your running Whitelines or Hotchkis the HD No Bush endlinks are the ticket
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Its difficult to tell from the picture, but the endlinks look like the have poly bushings installed. There is a reason I dont carry poly bushings for use on the stock endlinks. The endlinks will bend. If your running a stock sway bar bushings the Roadsafe stock replacement endlinks work well. If your running Whitelines or Hotchkis the HD No Bush endlinks are the ticket
they are whiteline end links ,that i have on there, that bent
 

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Discussion Starter #20
so after it all done and working perfectly after a few weeks of no problems at all, now when i turn all the way right and then start to steer left there is a loud ping sound like a binding coil makes, is this the spring settleing or did i do something wrong??
 
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