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$500 for motive gears and I can change the gears myself. I had also been planning on buying some of the axle shafts and what not, a lot of people I talk to say, rear end gears, full suspension, and axle shafts. Just gonna have to end up being my decision when I do end up pulling the trigger on new parts
If you use Motive gears you will hate yourself and your car. As the speed increases so will the noise. Please be aware! Do a search here and other boards, they're loud.
 

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Don't own one but soon, 2005 Pontiac GTO, M6, Cyclone Grey.
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
If you use Motive gears you will hate yourself and your car. As the speed increases so will the noise. Please be aware! Do a search here and other boards, they're loud.
be that as it may, I don't have the thousand dollars to buy gears from Australia. Unfortunately, I would rather take the risk and use a thicker gear oil with motive gears and buy other car parts than spend 1k on gears from Aussie. It's just not financially right for a college kid with a muscle car.
 

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be that as it may, I don't have the thousand dollars to buy gears from Australia. Unfortunately, I would rather take the risk and use a thicker gear oil with motive gears and buy other car parts than spend 1k on gears from Aussie. It's just not financially right for a college kid with a muscle car.
just staying with the stock rear ratio is even more financially viable. 👀
 

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He's right you're better off with stock gears and upgrade the differential, and other things. Especially on your budget! Thicker gear oil with the Motives won't do anything, that is one thing I tried. 😅
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
He's right you're better off with stock gears and upgrade the differential, and other things. Especially on your budget! Thicker gear oil with the Motives won't do anything, that is one thing I tried. 😅
I just don't want to lose out on the 4th gear acceleration, and I really don't have the time or the money to pull it and send it off to get re-geared, so if you guys really think I should just save up and buy aussie gears then yeah I will, it just means I'll have to put other mods on hold I suppose.
 

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are you really going to be doing 100+ mph highway pulls? the different rear end gear won't make THAT much difference, either. unless you have a real specific speed range you want to be .1 seconds faster accelerating through. you'll also have to shift into 4th sooner, and then out of it sooner. what gearing gives, it also takes away.

maybe you should just buy a faster car. lots of '11-'14 mustang GT's out there. a tuner and a few cheap bolt ons will get you way faster than a GTO with aftermarket gears.
 

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with a manual, you shift out of 4th around 139 mph with the stock gear, around 123 or so with the 3.90, assuming a shift at 6500 rpm.

ran some basic numbers through a little program i have. assuming stock power (400hp/400tq), manual transmission, factory curb weight, and a .5 second total shift time, rounded to the nearest tenth of a second:

3.46 gear -- 100-120 4.6 seconds,100-130 7.4 seconds, 100-140 11.7 seconds, 100-150 16.5 seconds.
3.90 gear -- 100-120 4.5 seconds,100-130 7.9 seconds, 100-140 11.5 seconds, 100-150 17.9 seconds.

you can see the shift tradeoffs, exacerbated by drag at higher speeds. 100-139 in 3.46 was 10.8 seconds. the extra 1 mph in 5th gear plus the shift time took almost an extra second. 100-139 for the 3.90 rear gear was 11.2.

now, a GTO with cheap uncoated pacesetters, a crappy used slp loudmouth exhaust, a used lingenfelter intake with a crinkled filter you bought from leecparts, and an hptuners quickie tune your buddy did with massive blocks of 25 degrees of advance and 12.2:1 AFR should dyno at least 370, 375 on a generous dynojet. let's say 425/425 at the flywheel, which is what i will input into the program in place of 400/400.

3.46 gear -- 100-120 4.2 seconds,100-130 6.9 seconds, 100-140 10.8 seconds, 100-150 14.8 seconds.

those noisy gears don't feel worth the money anymore.
 

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i'm not downing the value of gears, though, don't get me wrong. there a lot of mods one can do to this car that are worth it, but sometimes the price tag makes you wonder why you spent so much money. i wouldn't JUST do gears.

gears have always been a sort of "get it out of the hole quicker and through the traps at the right RPM" type of mod, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
with a manual, you shift out of 4th around 139 mph with the stock gear, around 123 or so with the 3.90, assuming a shift at 6500 rpm.

ran some basic numbers through a little program i have. assuming stock power (400hp/400tq), manual transmission, factory curb weight, and a .5 second total shift time, rounded to the nearest tenth of a second:

3.46 gear -- 100-120 4.6 seconds,100-130 7.4 seconds, 100-140 11.7 seconds, 100-150 16.5 seconds.
3.90 gear -- 100-120 4.5 seconds,100-130 7.9 seconds, 100-140 11.5 seconds, 100-150 17.9 seconds.

you can see the shift tradeoffs, exacerbated by drag at higher speeds. 100-139 in 3.46 was 10.8 seconds. the extra 1 mph in 5th gear plus the shift time took almost an extra second. 100-139 for the 3.90 rear gear was 11.2.

now, a GTO with cheap uncoated pacesetters, a crappy used slp loudmouth exhaust, a used lingenfelter intake with a crinkled filter you bought from leecparts, and an hptuners quickie tune your buddy did with massive blocks of 25 degrees of advance and 12.2:1 AFR should dyno at least 370, 375 on a generous dynojet. let's say 425/425 at the flywheel, which is what i will input into the program in place of 400/400.

3.46 gear -- 100-120 4.2 seconds,100-130 6.9 seconds, 100-140 10.8 seconds, 100-150 14.8 seconds.

those noisy gears don't feel worth the money anymore.
I mean coyote cars are cool, GTO's are so much cooler. Even with the issues. Now I understand you really aren't gaining much with gears, but headers and a cat-back exhaust are enough to drop 50 to the crank, and considering GTO's actually make about 420 flywheel from factory, 470hp and around 400 wheel. Add a cam on top of that, with the right one you're looking at between 40 and 50 more hp to the crank. So let's assume 40, 510hp to the crank, around 440hp to the tire on a generous dyno and the perfect weather. Add a rear end gear to that, and a rear end refresh, you're pretty much on the money with those few mods if you ask me. Even if a gen 1 coyote S197 has better power potential. The GTO is a much cooler car. It's just not worth giving up to me. Even if I kept it mostly stock until I was out of college I'd be happier with a GTO than I would a Mustang. I grew up around mustangs so they're just less appealing to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
i'm not downing the value of gears, though, don't get me wrong. there a lot of mods one can do to this car that are worth it, but sometimes the price tag makes you wonder why you spent so much money. i wouldn't JUST do gears.

gears have always been a sort of "get it out of the hole quicker and through the traps at the right RPM" type of mod, anyway.
On top of that, I'm not ONLY doing gears, I don't want to go full blown, My plan for it within the first few years of ownership are a cam, headers, cat-back, OTR air filter since LS's run hot. So no I'm not trying to do a full build, but I am trying to build something that I can go out, and go stop light to stop light with my buddies and have a good time. Roast some tires while I'm at it, maybe take it to the drag strip every once and a while, hit up some of the tracks near me. Plus, the LS is just such a beautiful sounding motor, and the GTO is a great platform. Even with all the issues, it's a car that doesn't get recognized for what it did for muscle cars in the 2000's. Although I will admit people weren't out warning about GTO's in 2005, it was more about the Terminator Cobra's and the GT500's lmao. But still, the GTO was such an influential muscle car in 2004.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
maybe with absolutely no accessories on an engine dyno.
lets assume we are on an engine dyno for a second. car makes "400" horsepower fully stock. So assuming parasitic loss is 11%, that would put us at about 354 horsepower to the tire. headers and a cat-back, which severely change the flow rate of exhaust gasses, you gain anywhere from 40 to 50 hp to the flywheel. Now let's say because you're very pessimistic, that number is 40 horse, so now you're making 440 crank, 11% parasitic loss, and you're making just about 390 to the tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
now we know you're a troll.
Because I know more about motors than you? Pretty sad that when a 16 year old school's you on the motor in your car you have to go call them a troll because you know they're right but you don't want to admit it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
inorite. ricermath and everything.

i hope he gets fired from taco bell when they catch him posting on the job.
I ain't got no job I'm on daddies money. Cause I accept that shit. and your so-called "ricer math" applies to muscle cars too dipass. If you don't accept that, then fine, but I think it's imperative that you know it is people like you who deter the new generation from getting into cars. I came to this forum to learn more about one of my favorite cars and be encouraged to buy one. Not to be told just to go buy a mustang and then be criticized when I'm able to do the math and figure out what kind of power the car can make. It's not all about carburetors and who has the biggest motor anymore pal.
 
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