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So if I go with the coilover route, I'd definitely do the upper strut mount bushings. Would be wise to do the control arm bushings at this time as well? I've definitely heard the differential mount being a common upgrade. I was thinking about sway bars too.



Are you saying you had the MaverickManCarbon coilovers then? And the end links that came with them were no good?
If you are still rolling on OEM bushings then yes replace them all, CA, strut and RR. If OEM the end links are probably bent. (If you don't mind me asking) Why coil overs?. The sway bar(s) paticulary the front, are not a simple remove/replace; the motor has to come off the mounts, (tranny mount has to be backed off) and suspended because the sub-frame has to be lowered and it ain't no picnic at that. To hang a motor things have to come off or risk tearing them up. While the motor is free you might think about those mounts as well, like the bushings those factory pieces suck. Most don't do anything with them because you have to hang the motor but you are going to have it free anyway sooo.... There are 3 choices; urethane is a big improvement, billet is strictly hard core and delrin falls in between (I'm using delrin). For the transmission mount I can tell you how to beef that up for @15 bucks or you can leave it go or you can drop 2 bills on a fancy new store bought unit that gets you powder coating and not a hell of a lot more for the money.The rear is (technically) serviceable in frame, in reality not so much especially with new bushings; the back of the strap is a tab the front a single stud, the front is the problem, there is all but zero room to get one hand in there, next to impossibal to manuver and new bushings generally need some force to get the keeper close enough to catch threads on the stud, if you up the size of the rear bar the situation only gets worse. Do yourself a favor; drop the sub-frame and call it a day, while you have it apart change those bushings as well. Some say sways can be done without taking the world apart; I'd wager they have never tried it. The rear maybe if you have tiny, T-Rex style hands but the front has to come apart a lot. That said it is totally worth doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
If you are still rolling on OEM bushings then yes replace them all, CA, strut and RR. If OEM the end links are probably bent. (If you don't mind me asking) Why coil overs?. The sway bar(s) paticulary the front, are not a simple remove/replace; the motor has to come off the mounts, (tranny mount has to be backed off) and suspended because the sub-frame has to be lowered and it ain't no picnic at that. To hang a motor things have to come off or risk tearing them up. While the motor is free you might think about those mounts as well, like the bushings those factory pieces suck. Most don't do anything with them because you have to hang the motor but you are going to have it free anyway sooo.... There are 3 choices; urethane is a big improvement, billet is strictly hard core and delrin falls in between (I'm using delrin). For the transmission mount I can tell you how to beef that up for @15 bucks or you can leave it go or you can drop 2 bills on a fancy new store bought unit that gets you powder coating and not a hell of a lot more for the money.The rear is (technically) serviceable in frame, in reality not so much especially with new bushings; the back of the strap is a tab the front a single stud, the front is the problem, there is all but zero room to get one hand in there, next to impossibal to manuver and new bushings generally need some force to get the keeper close enough to catch threads on the stud, if you up the size of the rear bar the situation only gets worse. Do yourself a favor; drop the sub-frame and call it a day, while you have it apart change those bushings as well. Some say sways can be done without taking the world apart; I'd wager they have never tried it. The rear maybe if you have tiny, T-Rex style hands but the front has to come apart a lot. That said it is totally worth doing.
Yes, all of my suspension is OEM and original. I'm think coil overs because I like the idea of dampening adjustability with height adjustability. Coilovers would allow me to dampen the rear enough to prevent the tire from bouncing into the fender while still letting me choose my ride height (I'd like to be a little bit lower than stock). Now I know I can buy drop springs but I don't necessarily know how the drop springs will work with my wheel and tire setup. I really do no not want to cut and paint my fenders again. Also the price point of the MaverickManCarbon coilovers is nice along with mostly great feedback from what I have seen.

This entire past summer I had been battling fender rub with my new wheel and tire setup (18x9 wheels with 265 tires). I cut the fenders 3 different times, each time taking off more metal and prime, painting, and sealing. In hindsight, I should have done more than one test launch to see if I were rubbing or not before going straight to painting. I'd launch after it was all nice and painted thinking I was good to go, but end up finding that I was still rubbing and all that hard work painting had gone to waste. Now after the third time cutting, hard launches and leaning the car around corners while spinning the tires, I am not seeing any more rubbing.

Sway bars must be a bigger feat than I thought...I'll leave that for the future.

Okay so with what you have told me, I am thinking of coilovers with Whiteline upper strut mount bushings along with control arm bushings, radius arm bushings, (my control arms and radius arms themselves seem to be in good condition, car has zero rust, doesn't see winter, does see rain every now and then), rear subframe mount bushings, rear differential mount insert, and transmission mount insert bushings. Thinking everything Whiteline.

Thank you for digging into this with me KM06, I really appreciate it.
 

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If you are considering coilovers, check out GForce's rear coilovers. You won't regret it. The adjustable rear springs on the coilover kits for the GTO are cheesy IMO. I bought the pedders coilover kit and sold the rear setup that came with it. I left the front portion in the car, because I like the fronts.
 

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If you are still rolling on OEM bushings then yes replace them all, CA, strut and RR. If OEM the end links are probably bent. (If you don't mind me asking) Why coil overs?. The sway bar(s) paticulary the front, are not a simple remove/replace; the motor has to come off the mounts, (tranny mount has to be backed off) and suspended because the sub-frame has to be lowered and it ain't no picnic at that. To hang a motor things have to come off or risk tearing them up. While the motor is free you might think about those mounts as well, like the bushings those factory pieces suck. Most don't do anything with them because you have to hang the motor but you are going to have it free anyway sooo.... There are 3 choices; urethane is a big improvement, billet is strictly hard core and delrin falls in between (I'm using delrin). For the transmission mount I can tell you how to beef that up for @15 bucks or you can leave it go or you can drop 2 bills on a fancy new store bought unit that gets you powder coating and not a hell of a lot more for the money.The rear is (technically) serviceable in frame, in reality not so much especially with new bushings; the back of the strap is a tab the front a single stud, the front is the problem, there is all but zero room to get one hand in there, next to impossibal to manuver and new bushings generally need some force to get the keeper close enough to catch threads on the stud, if you up the size of the rear bar the situation only gets worse. Do yourself a favor; drop the sub-frame and call it a day, while you have it apart change those bushings as well. Some say sways can be done without taking the world apart; I'd wager they have never tried it. The rear maybe if you have tiny, T-Rex style hands but the front has to come apart a lot. That said it is totally worth doing.

I agree with KM06. I hve done all the bushings in the car, and it was a terrible job. No doubt about it. If I did it over again, I would buy the whiteline controls arms with the pre-installed balljoints and bushings, because those 2 pieces (ball joint and front control arm bushing) are the hardest bushing in the car. You can for sure do it, but just know it's a pain in the ass haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
If you are considering coilovers, check out GForce's rear coilovers. You won't regret it. The adjustable rear springs on the coilover kits for the GTO are cheesy IMO. I bought the pedders coilover kit and sold the rear setup that came with it. I left the front portion in the car, because I like the fronts.
You are saying the MaverickManCarbon coilovers are cheesy? Why do you say that? Just curious.

I agree with KM06. I hve done all the bushings in the car, and it was a terrible job. No doubt about it. If I did it over again, I would buy the whiteline controls arms with the pre-installed balljoints and bushings, because those 2 pieces (ball joint and front control arm bushing) are the hardest bushing in the car. You can for sure do it, but just know it's a pain in the ass haha.
As in the ball joints and bushings for the control arms are hard to get into the stock control arms?
 

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You are saying the MaverickManCarbon coilovers are cheesy? Why do you say that? Just curious.



As in the ball joints and bushings for the control arms are hard to get into the stock control arms?
Need a pickle fork and press for the balls, the bushings not going in, the old ones coming out, a press makes that job a little less taxing too. Knowing what I do now and the tools I had at the time I would have gotton the CA assembly and been done with it. The ball joint is NBD, the bushings are hell on wheels. Cars vary from one to the next but I am running 275/40/17's on 9 1/2x17 rims, -54 offset. I had to (about) half roll the fenders and knock a couple of high spots in the wells. I'm on 1 1/4" - 1" dropped, Pedders springs, shocks and struts (for lowered cars) Hotchkiss sways, Pedders end links and every bushing on the car changed over, there are 30+. The car has very close to zero roll and not one bit of hop. It sounds like your rims either have to much offset (not likely, OEM is -54 or 56, hard to find anything with more than that) or are to wide, do you know the numbers on them? Width and offset?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Need a pickle fork and press for the balls, the bushings not going in, the old ones coming out, a press makes that job a little less taxing too. Knowing what I do now and the tools I had at the time I would have gotton the CA assembly and been done with it. The ball joint is NBD, the bushings are hell on wheels. Cars vary from one to the next but I am running 275/40/17's on 9 1/2x17 rims, -54 offset. I had to (about) half roll the fenders and knock a couple of high spots in the wells. I'm on 1 1/4" - 1" dropped, Pedders springs, shocks and struts (for lowered cars) Hotchkiss sways, Pedders end links and every bushing on the car changed over, there are 30+. The car has very close to zero roll and not one bit of hop. It sounds like your rims either have to much offset (not likely, OEM is -54 or 56, hard to find anything with more than that) or are to wide, do you know the numbers on them? Width and offset?
Fair enough, control arm assemblies it will be. Obviously I would like to replace every single bushing and mount, but without blowing my budget I think the following list will be pretty solid for a start:

•MaverickManCarbon.com Coilovers Kit w/ Whiteline Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings
•Whiteline Front & Rear Control Arms
•Whiteline Front & Rear Radius Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Subframe Mount Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Differential Mount Insert
•Whiteline Transmission Mount Insert Bushings

I am 18x9 +45 on 265/35/ZR18 in the rear.
 

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I didnt like the adjuster assembly, and the spring feels cheap. Shocks were fine. If I woulda kept the rears, I woulda swapped the springs for a beefier spring. I minitubbed my setup, so the gforce was a necessity for me to get bigger wheels back there. You will be happy with the mavman setup tho!

And yes - pressing out the ball joints, and pressing out the front control arm inner bushing was a terrible job. When you put the new control arm bushings in (if you dont go with the pre-assembled replacement arms) then you press the bushing into the arm without the steel crush sleeve in the middle, and then you slide the crush sleeve in after the poly part is pressed in. I battled this and finally figured that out, because the instructions foe this stuff is horrendous.
 

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Fair enough, control arm assemblies it will be. Obviously I would like to replace every single bushing and mount, but without blowing my budget I think the following list will be pretty solid for a start:

•MaverickManCarbon.com Coilovers Kit w/ Whiteline Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings
•Whiteline Front & Rear Control Arms
•Whiteline Front & Rear Radius Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Subframe Mount Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Differential Mount Insert
•Whiteline Transmission Mount Insert Bushings

I am 18x9 +45 on 265/35/ZR18 in the rear.
Ok the rubbing issue has me stumped, that combo should fit with ease, it's a long shot but no spacer in there? I have about 3 grand and countless hours in my suspension, it was bone stock. No coil overs, I used all of the existing hard parts like control arms, DIYed the entire program on the ground (no lift), did all of the work in house with no help and without a lot of the tooling that I have now (the main reason I have the tools now!). A friend and I rebuilt his front recently, all but the sway bar (his was already upgraded) used his factory CAs and RRs did it in 11 hours and he can't wait to get into the rear (called that one) it is that profound a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ok the rubbing issue has me stumped, that combo should fit with ease, it's a long shot but no spacer in there? I have about 3 grand and countless hours in my suspension, it was bone stock. No coil overs, I used all of the existing hard parts like control arms, DIYed the entire program on the ground (no lift), did all of the work in house with no help and without a lot of the tooling that I have now (the main reason I have the tools now!). A friend and I rebuilt his front recently, all but the sway bar (his was already upgraded) used his factory CAs and RRs did it in 11 hours and he can't wait to get into the rear (called that one) it is that profound a difference.
Check out my rear end picture in my showcase to see the fitment: 2006 Pontiac GTO / Brazen Orange Metallic

It sags quite a bit just sitting still and the rear end really drops on launch. Before I did any cutting I was rubbing going up and down the curb into my driveway.

No spacers, hub is stock as far as I can tell.

Well I guess the only thing I am up in the air about is going for the control arm assembly versus using the stockers with new bushings. No doubt, I am sure he can't wait to get to the rear, my mouth is watering just thinking about the first strides I will be taking with my suspension.
 

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Check out my rear end picture in my showcase to see the fitment: 2006 Pontiac GTO / Brazen Orange Metallic

It sags quite a bit just sitting still and the rear end really drops on launch. Before I did any cutting I was rubbing going up and down the curb into my driveway.

No spacers, hub is stock as far as I can tell.

Well I guess the only thing I am up in the air about is going for the control arm assembly versus using the stockers with new bushings. No doubt, I am sure he can't wait to get to the rear, my mouth is watering just thinking about the first strides I will be taking with my suspension.
That's the thing you see, you can save a boat load of money by doing a bush job on the CAs you have.
Check out my rear end picture in my showcase to see the fitment: 2006 Pontiac GTO / Brazen Orange Metallic

It sags quite a bit just sitting still and the rear end really drops on launch. Before I did any cutting I was rubbing going up and down the curb into my driveway.

No spacers, hub is stock as far as I can tell.

Well I guess the only thing I am up in the air about is going for the control arm assembly versus using the stockers with new bushings. No doubt, I am sure he can't wait to get to the rear, my mouth is watering just thinking about the first strides I will be taking with my suspension.
Sweet ride but can't tell much about the tire/wheel from the pics.

Check out my rear end picture in my showcase to see the fitment: 2006 Pontiac GTO / Brazen Orange Metallic

Mine
 

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Discussion Starter #32
That's the thing you see, you can save a boat load of money by doing a bush job on the CAs you have.

Sweet ride but can't tell much about the tire/wheel from the pics.
That will be the plan then moving forward, even if it is going to be a PIA.

You can see that the outer sidewall of the tire is in line with the fender lip. It has now been cut enough that when the car squats, the tire tucks into the fender well without rubbing. But it's quite a bit of travel that it is dropping that much in the first place.

Sweet ride man, left a comment!
 
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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I've been researching quite a bit lately as I am still green when it comes to all things suspension. I would like some help with my shopping list below, I want to make sure I get what I need in one fell swoop to save on needing multiple alignments.

•MaverickManCarbon.com Front Coilovers
•MaverickManCarbon.com Rear Coilovers
•Whiteline Front Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings (I would want two pairs, correct?)
•Polyurethane Bushing Front Sway Bar End Links (Comes with coilover kit.)
•Whiteline Rear Sway Bar End Links
•Whiteline Front Control Arm Inner Bushings
•Whiteline Front Radius Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Control Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Radius Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Differential Mount Insert
•Whiteline Rear Subframe Mount Bushings
•Revshift Performance Engineering Polyurethane Motor Mounts (95A) (Should I install sway bars if the motor is coming off of the mounts anyways?)
•Revshift Performance Engineering Polyurethane Transmission Mount (95A)
•Alignment (Will a typical alignment shop align the cradle if I upgrade the subframe bushings?)

I also plan to add Lou's Short Stick and the shifter detent plug modification to improve shifting.

Is there anything I am missing as far as replacing the stock suspension components with coilovers, I'd rather not reuse something if I can get it new for cheap. Keep in mind my control arms and radius arms are in good condition from what I can tell, so I will save some money by not buying new control arms and radius arms.

Thanks in advance!
 

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I've been researching quite a bit lately as I am still green when it comes to all things suspension. I would like some help with my shopping list below, I want to make sure I get what I need in one fell swoop to save on needing multiple alignments.

•MaverickManCarbon.com Front Coilovers
•MaverickManCarbon.com Rear Coilovers
•Whiteline Front Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings (I would want two pairs, correct?)
•Polyurethane Bushing Front Sway Bar End Links (Comes with coilover kit.)
•Whiteline Rear Sway Bar End Links
•Whiteline Front Control Arm Inner Bushings
•Whiteline Front Radius Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Control Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Radius Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Differential Mount Insert
•Whiteline Rear Subframe Mount Bushings
•Revshift Performance Engineering Polyurethane Motor Mounts (95A) (Should I install sway bars if the motor is coming off of the mounts anyways?)
•Revshift Performance Engineering Polyurethane Transmission Mount (95A)
•Alignment (Will a typical alignment shop align the cradle if I upgrade the subframe bushings?)

I also plan to add Lou's Short Stick and the shifter detent plug modification to improve shifting.

Is there anything I am missing as far as replacing the stock suspension components with coilovers, I'd rather not reuse something if I can get it new for cheap. Keep in mind my control arms and radius arms are in good condition from what I can tell, so I will save some money by not buying new control arms and radius arms.

Thanks in advance!
I'm not aware of a rear strut mount bushing. It isn't like the front. It's just a shock with a couple washers and bushings.

You can do a front sway bar or just the bushings much easier with the engine lifted off the mounts. Do it now if you can afford the parts. The rear sway bar is also a good idea as you do the rear subframe bushings.

Consider replacing the rear wheel bearings while you have other parts out to do the control arm bushings. It'll cost another $140 in parts to put a pair of Timken bearings on the rear. The front are easier and can be done during a rotor replacement.
 

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I've been researching quite a bit lately as I am still green when it comes to all things suspension. I would like some help with my shopping list below, I want to make sure I get what I need in one fell swoop to save on needing multiple alignments.

•MaverickManCarbon.com Front Coilovers
•MaverickManCarbon.com Rear Coilovers
•Whiteline Front Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings (I would want two pairs, correct?)
•Polyurethane Bushing Front Sway Bar End Links (Comes with coilover kit.)
•Whiteline Rear Sway Bar End Links
•Whiteline Front Control Arm Inner Bushings
•Whiteline Front Radius Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Control Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Radius Arm Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Differential Mount Insert
•Whiteline Rear Subframe Mount Bushings
•Revshift Performance Engineering Polyurethane Motor Mounts (95A) (Should I install sway bars if the motor is coming off of the mounts anyways?)
•Revshift Performance Engineering Polyurethane Transmission Mount (95A)
•Alignment (Will a typical alignment shop align the cradle if I upgrade the subframe bushings?)

I also plan to add Lou's Short Stick and the shifter detent plug modification to improve shifting.

Is there anything I am missing as far as replacing the stock suspension components with coilovers, I'd rather not reuse something if I can get it new for cheap. Keep in mind my control arms and radius arms are in good condition from what I can tell, so I will save some money by not buying new control arms and radius arms.

Thanks in advance!
I think the rear shock bushings are the only stock bushing on my car. Interested to hear whether or not those are worth it.

You can probably save money on the rear sway bar endlinks by just changing the bushings. I haven't heard of any issues with the stock rear endlinks, and mine have been fine with the Hotchkis rear sway bar on max stiffness.

For the rear control arm bushings, are you going to go with eccentrics for alignment? If not, think hard about not going OEM on the inner. Apparently some people have had issue adjusting toe with the toe rod when you have poly inner bushings because they don't give enough. I went quad Whiteline eccentrics and deleted the toe rods. The downside is you have to trust alignment shops to figure out the alignment and tighten up the rear control arm bushings enough after adjusting them or they will come loose.

A typical alignment shop will not align the cradle. But you can index the mounting points the best you can and I don't think you will have any real issues after the regular alignment.

While you are doing this work maybe refresh your outer tierod ends? They are pretty inexpensive and some people have them go bad pretty early.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I'm not aware of a rear strut mount bushing. It isn't like the front. It's just a shock with a couple washers and bushings.

You can do a front sway bar or just the bushings much easier with the engine lifted off the mounts. Do it now if you can afford the parts. The rear sway bar is also a good idea as you do the rear subframe bushings.

Consider replacing the rear wheel bearings while you have other parts out to do the control arm bushings. It'll cost another $140 in parts to put a pair of Timken bearings on the rear. The front are easier and can be done during a rotor replacement.
So would the rear coilovers come with those washers and bushings preinstalled? I guess that would save me $150 from what I was planning.

The front sway bar bushings in the rear sway bar bushings are $18 each, not bad. Will they help much with body roll?

Adding rear wheel bearings to the list.

I think the rear shock bushings are the only stock bushing on my car. Interested to hear whether or not those are worth it.

You can probably save money on the rear sway bar endlinks by just changing the bushings. I haven't heard of any issues with the stock rear endlinks, and mine have been fine with the Hotchkis rear sway bar on max stiffness.

For the rear control arm bushings, are you going to go with eccentrics for alignment? If not, think hard about not going OEM on the inner. Apparently some people have had issue adjusting toe with the toe rod when you have poly inner bushings because they don't give enough. I went quad Whiteline eccentrics and deleted the toe rods. The downside is you have to trust alignment shops to figure out the alignment and tighten up the rear control arm bushings enough after adjusting them or they will come loose.

A typical alignment shop will not align the cradle. But you can index the mounting points the best you can and I don't think you will have any real issues after the regular alignment.

While you are doing this work maybe refresh your outer tierod ends? They are pretty inexpensive and some people have them go bad pretty early.
Do polyurethane rear shock bushings exist?

Rear sway bar end links are only $50 versus the bushings which are $18, but yes still some savings to be had.

For the rear control arm bushings I was just going to go with what was offered from Whiteline on GTOG8TA.com at this link:

Will I need 2 sets for inner and outer?

Outer tie rod ends are $20 a piece, not bad!
 

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I've been researching quite a bit lately as I am still green when it comes to all things suspension. I would like some help with my shopping list below, I want to make sure I get what I need in one fell swoop to save on needing multiple alignments.

•MaverickManCarbon.com Front Coilovers
•MaverickManCarbon.com Rear Coilovers
•Whiteline Front Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings

•Whiteline Rear Polyurethane Upper Strut Mount Bushings (I would want two pairs, correct?)

That's an odd one, as far as i know there are 2 upper struts, one per side.

•Polyurethane Bushing Front Sway Bar End Links (Comes with coilover kit.)
•Whiteline Rear Sway Bar End Links
•Whiteline Front Control Arm Inner Bushings
•Whiteline Front Radius Arm Bushings

•Whiteline Rear Radius Arm Bushings

Scratching my head?

•Whiteline Rear Differential Mount Insert
•Whiteline Rear Subframe Mount Bushings
•Whiteline Rear Control Arm Bushings


If you plan on a sway bar in the future do it now while the subframe is loose, When you get it down and see what the bar takes you will know why I recommend it. Also while it's handy get at the control arm bushes, you might do them under the car but don't make dinner reservations, I admitted defeat and pulled them, when the brakes etc are off the arms are not very heavy and fairly easy to maneuver.Get a pair of eccentric CR bushings, use them on the outers, that is for camber correction.

•Revshift Performance Engineering Polyurethane Motor Mounts (95A) (Should I install sway bars if the motor is coming off of the mounts anyways?)

Yes, you'll be half way there anyway. To do mounts you'll have the motor and tranny loose, from there it's 4 subframe bolts. If you are lucky you can back the rears off and drop just the front but you're probably not that lucky. You will want to use a trolly jack and fab up a frame for it to hold the sub up, just 2x4s will do. You do not want that sub to get away from you, use your judgment on the rear bolts; bending stuff like that is not optional. As I recall I made the frame and used ratchet straps to keep things close to where they belong. You will need to lower the frame 4-6" and at that it's no Sunday social getting them in/out.

•Revshift Performance Engineering Polyurethane Transmission Mount (95A)
•Alignment (Will a typical alignment shop align the cradle if I upgrade the subframe bushings?)

The short answer is NO. A typical shop will be baffled by the suspension on these cars and look at you like you just got off the last bus from Neptune if you ask about the jig to do it with. A shop is going to look up the factory numbers and that is the end of it, they don't care about the grand in bushings you installed, I have a personal horror story if you want. Other than squaring the sub the only OEM adjustment front or rear is toe, there no provisions for camber adjustment, that nor caster in front. Unless you are in good with a local guy you will not get the numbers you want, a commercial shop goes by the book.

-I also plan to add Lou's Short Stick and the shifter detent plug modification to improve shifting.-

Do it now while you can (relatively easy) get the tranny low enough to get at the nuts in the tunnel. I have a mod that makes that infinatly easier in the future, like when you need a clutch.

-Is there anything I am missing as far as replacing the stock suspension components with coilovers, I'd rather not reuse something if I can get it new for cheap. Keep in mind my control arms and radius arms are in good condition from what I can tell, so I will save some money by not buying new control arms and radius arms.-

Drop the pipes and get them out of the way. Good luck with the top shock mount on the passenger side, try a ratching box end and visegrips to grab the end of the rod. The bottom can be a bitch as well, even fresh that rubber does not want to let go of the stud and offers no solid point to make a pickle fork of much use. When I rebuilt the rear I wound up cutting the ring off with a die grinder and pretty much burned the rubber off with a torch on one side. Less than a year later I swapped them for Pedders (only thing on the market for lowered cars at the time, took a long time tracking them down buy worth every cent) and played hell all over only worse because I didn't want to destroy a coupla hundred bucks worth of parts doing it. You will have the drive shaft out, replace the carrier bearing. If the car is your driver line up another ride or plan to do the work in steps, a friend and I just rebuilt his front, no sway bar or motor mounts, it was (a long) all day. (reused his CRs) With some competent help and tools you might get the whole thing in 3 days, maybe.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I wasn't sure if the upper strut mount bushings would also be used for the rear shocks. Is there a rear upper shock bushing? EDIT: I found rear upper shock absorber bushings from Whiteline. For $28 I will plan to replace them.

You wrote "Scratching my head?" in reference to what?

So eccentrics on the outers and non-eccentrics on the inners which means I keep the toe links? I've read that using quad eccentrics require the deletion of the toe links? What are the pros and cons of quads?

I'll have to do some research for performance shops around the area that may be familiar with the car's suspension.

Perfect, I'll do the shifter and detent plug mod while the transmission is down.

This car isn't my daily so no problem with driving my other car, I don't plan to take it off of the stands until it's done.
 
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