LS1GTO Forums banner
61 - 80 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
2006 Pontiac GTO
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
UPDATE

All suspension parts are in, here is a summary:

MaverickManCarbon.com Front Coilovers

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Front Upper Strut Mount Bushings & Bearings

Pedders Polyurethane Front Lower Control Arm Inner Bushings

Pedders Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joints

Pedders Polyurethane Front Radius Rod Bushings

Pedders Polyurethane Rear Radius Rod Bushings

Pedders Front Outer Tie Rod Ends

Polyurethane Bushing Front Sway Bar End Links

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Front Sway Bar Mount Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Steering Rack Insert Bushing

MaverickManCarbon.com Rear Coilovers

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Upper Shock Absorber Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Control Arm Inner Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Control Arm Outer Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Sway Bar End Link Upper Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Sway Bar End Link Lower Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Sway Bar Mount Bushings

Pedders Polyurethane Rear Subframe Mount Bushings

Pedders Polyurethane Rear Differential Mount Insert Bushing

I did everything in my garage myself except the front lower control arm inner bushings and ball joints, rear radius rod bushings, and rear control arm bushings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Coil Overs are not on the agenda for me but I sure would like to read the results of all the pu bushings replacements.
I see both Whiteline and Pedders 'packaged' bushing replacements for about $250. Although I paid for my EE degree being a Sears mechanic, I imagine it'd cost me $500 for labor alone, even IF I can find a good mechanic to do it for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
UPDATE

All suspension parts are in, here is a summary:

MaverickManCarbon.com Front Coilovers

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Front Upper Strut Mount Bushings & Bearings

Pedders Polyurethane Front Lower Control Arm Inner Bushings

Pedders Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joints

Pedders Polyurethane Front Radius Rod Bushings

Pedders Polyurethane Rear Radius Rod Bushings

Pedders Front Outer Tie Rod Ends

Polyurethane Bushing Front Sway Bar End Links

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Front Sway Bar Mount Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Steering Rack Insert Bushing

MaverickManCarbon.com Rear Coilovers

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Upper Shock Absorber Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Control Arm Inner Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Control Arm Outer Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Sway Bar End Link Upper Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Sway Bar End Link Lower Bushings

Whiteline Synthetic Elastomer Rear Sway Bar Mount Bushings

Pedders Polyurethane Rear Subframe Mount Bushings

Pedders Polyurethane Rear Differential Mount Insert Bushing

I did everything in my garage myself except the front lower control arm inner bushings and ball joints, rear radius rod bushings, and rear control arm bushings.
Thank you for this post and update. This is immensely helpful as I consider similar upgrades.

Would you mind expanding on some of the challenges you had installing all these? Did you remove the front and rear control arms and have a shop install all the bushings/ball joints? You weren't able to or just too much hassle to replace yourself?

Are you happy with the feel of the car a year on?

Did you use a rear subframe alignment tool? I have heard this is needed.

What was your experience like installing the diff mount? General consensus seems that it can be a serious pain in the neck. Any noticeable improvement to the rear end with this? I have some serious clunking going on at takeoff.

I'd really appreciate any feedback on this, this post answered so many of my questions!

Cheers!
 

·
Worthless reject member
Joined
·
49,786 Posts
Thank you for this post and update. This is immensely helpful as I consider similar upgrades.

Would you mind expanding on some of the challenges you had installing all these? Did you remove the front and rear control arms and have a shop install all the bushings/ball joints? You weren't able to or just too much hassle to replace yourself?

Are you happy with the feel of the car a year on?

Did you use a rear subframe alignment tool? I have heard this is needed.

What was your experience like installing the diff mount? General consensus seems that it can be a serious pain in the neck. Any noticeable improvement to the rear end with this? I have some serious clunking going on at takeoff.

I'd really appreciate any feedback on this, this post answered so many of my questions!

Cheers!
i have done a couple of the front control arms, and the big issue is not the ball joints. those are easily done with a ball joint press. same with the radius rod-to-control arm bushing. the big issue is corrosion with the control arm bushing because it has a steel outer sleeve. you can still get it pressed out if you carefully cut the lip off, and use a cup, socket, or other such thing that fits just smaller that its largest outer diameter, and have at it with a press.

rear control arms are easy to get the bushings in and out of, with a balljoint press, but again the inner bushes have voids for a reason. Energy suspension and a couple other (?) bushing companies offer a lower durometer inner bushing to use in it's place, otherwise keep the OE bushing and use the poly in the outer spot, or use high durometer bushings in all 4 spots and delete the toe control rod. use eccentric bushings in the inner spots for toe adjustment. They also do make an OE replacement for the inner bushing, but it has to come from overseas. i can find the PN for you. many times the OE inner bushing has deflected, but i don't think it necessarily makes it unusable. it just happens over time.

And yes, you have to remove them. front control arm removal is straightforward. don't remove the radius rods, do the front castors first. once they are done, and you are sure the radius rods are still aligned, do the control arms. It's best to remove the entire rear subframe and control arms as an assembly. lots involved, such as parking brake cables and brake line dissasembly, but once it's out, it's easy. be careful not to ruin your brake hardlines trying to bust them loose if the lines are corroded.

a rear subframe alignment tool may not be required if you use poly subframe bushings. there is little give once you install them. my subframe alignment tool went right in, i had to do no adjustment (nor could i if i had wanted to.) use wretched motorsports rear subframe bolts.

installing the differential mount is easy compared to the above.
 

·
Worthless reject member
Joined
·
49,786 Posts
i know i'm not op, but it's early and i saw your post, so i thought i would offer my experience with it.

and if you want stover bolts used for the front and rear control arms, which is what OE uses, check out bolt-depot. i think wretched sells the control arm bolts with nylock nuts, which i think are inferior to the prevailing torque locking nuts that come from the factory. you can reuse the oe stuff if you can't hand thread the top of the nut past the first thread or so of the bolt. if you can, the locking thread deformations at the top of the nut are worn out and the nut should be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Thank you so much guys for the information!

Nothubertjfarnsworth, if you could get me that part number, that would be much appreciated!

I just saw the pair of Whiteline front control arms from mavman for only $275. Considering I'm looking at around $150+, I believe, for the ball joints and control arm bushings, wouldn't this make sense at that price to save me some headaches?

I don’t know if I want to go all out with every bushing like the OP, currently my thoughts are front and rear radius rod bushings, front control arms (or ball joints/bushings), roadsafe outer tie rods, end links, whiteline (or superpro synthetic) strut mounts, koni struts/shocks and diff mount.

What are the benefits of the rear sub frame bushing replacement? Sounds like a pain in the neck with less benefits for me vs the parts I mentioned.

Should all component bolts be replaced, if possible?

Does anyone have an install video for diff mount?

My GTO has 148k and I'm pretty sure suspension has never been touched...I obviously want to be mindful of how much $ I put into it as it's never likely to be more than a fun weekend car and occasional DD for me. With it's current ride qualities, its hard to enjoy it.

On a side note, any recommendations for a new waterpump? Flushed cooling system myself this summer and replaced hoses with Mishimoto, after first drive, pump decided to spew out all my new Dexcool.
Leaning towards AC Delco professional or Gates, I am aware of the made in China aspect...are there any better stock options out there? I can get one of those for between $100 (Gates) and $140 (AC).
 

·
Worthless reject member
Joined
·
49,786 Posts
Thank you so much guys for the information!

Nothubertjfarnsworth, if you could get me that part number, that would be much appreciated!

I just saw the pair of Whiteline front control arms from mavman for only $275. Considering I'm looking at around $150+, I believe, for the ball joints and control arm bushings, wouldn't this make sense at that price to save me some headaches?
yes. it is also uses whiteline's single piece control arm-to-subframe bushing, i believe.

I don’t know if I want to go all out with every bushing like the OP, currently my thoughts are front and rear radius rod bushings, front control arms (or ball joints/bushings), roadsafe outer tie rods, end links, whiteline (or superpro synthetic) strut mounts, koni struts/shocks and diff mount.

What are the benefits of the rear sub frame bushing replacement? Sounds like a pain in the neck with less benefits for me vs the parts I mentioned.
the rear subframe can actually move a lot under shifting and acceleration. helps with wheelhop and to maintain wheel geometry.

Should all component bolts be replaced, if possible?
for many, you don't need too unless they are screwed up from corrosion, thread galling, stretch, etc. just replace any locking nuts if they no longer lock, like the stover nuts used for control arms and the toe links. DO replace the rear subframe bolts, same with the front subframe bolts if you mess with them. People have reused them (as have i in the past) but it's better to replace them. Chances are with your mileage they will be pretty gnarly anyway. The wretched motorsports replacement subframe bolts are also stronger than stock, those are pretty much a no-brainer. chase the rear subframe bolt body nut threads to get rid of all the locktite and corossion before reinstalling the new bolts. The wretched motorsports subframe bolts have slightly different torque specs than the oem, use those instead.

you can use wretched motorsports, which basically carries every suspension bolt and nut for the car, or use mcmaster carr and bolt depot to find some of the bolt and nut types on your own, cheaper. rockauto also carries some of the locking nuts that are still stocked by GM, such as the ones for the front strut clevis bolts and the small stover nuts used for the rear swaybar end links.
 

·
Pontiac Fanboy
Joined
·
1,385 Posts
On a side note, any recommendations for a new waterpump? Flushed cooling system myself this summer and replaced hoses with Mishimoto, after first drive, pump decided to spew out all my new Dexcool.
Leaning towards AC Delco professional or Gates, I am aware of the made in China aspect...are there any better stock options out there? I can get one of those for between $100 (Gates) and $140 (AC).
OEM, branded as GM Genuine (formally AC Delco something), although they appear to be sold out everywhere.
It's the $200+ one, not the AC Delco for ~$150 made in China.

89018053

It's discontinued...wow.
Bad news for LS1s and LS2s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Yeah the OE is discontinue. But i thought the consensus was to use 251-744 aka 12681185?
I just did some searching and Summit appears to be the only place that has this listed. It says it's special order. I just hope its still available and not discontinued. Happy to pay for reliable part!
 

·
Pontiac Fanboy
Joined
·
1,385 Posts
Yeah the OE is discontinue. But i thought the consensus was to use 251-744 aka 12681185?
You're right. I couldn't look up what I bought recently while I was at work.
Price jumped $92 from when I bought it last summer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Thanks fellas. It is $227 on Summit and $239 at Tick. I think I will call Summit to see if they can confirm it's available and that it is indeed made in Mexico.
I saw a review on the Amazon link stated it didn't work with the t-stat and o-ring. Suggesting maybe it was for the early '04 models with housing/t-stat one piece? I'm assuming this is incorrect. I just put in a new t'stat before the pump went kaput, my '04 has the standard housing with separate t-stat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,111 Posts
Thanks fellas. It is $227 on Summit and $239 at Tick. I think I will call Summit to see if they can confirm it's available and that it is indeed made in Mexico.
I saw a review on the Amazon link stated it didn't work with the t-stat and o-ring. Suggesting maybe it was for the early '04 models with housing/t-stat one piece? I'm assuming this is incorrect. I just put in a new t'stat before the pump went kaput, my '04 has the standard housing with separate t-stat.
I put on a Gates over the summer, replacing an AC Delco that failed in less than 30k miles. I have utmost confidence in Gates, and not such much in AC Delco any longer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I put on a Gates over the summer, replacing an AC Delco that failed in less than 30k miles. I have utmost confidence in Gates, and not such much in AC Delco any longer.
Thanks for the comment. Any idea where that unit was made?
I've been researching all the options and I get the feeling 90% of them (including gates and AC Delco) are the same made in China unit. I found the one Napa option and it had the same part number as Gates. Both have lifetime warranty.

Any idea which part number the AC Delco was?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,111 Posts
Thanks for the comment. Any idea where that unit was made?
I've been researching all the options and I get the feeling 90% of them (including gates and AC Delco) are the same made in China unit. I found the one Napa option and it had the same part number as Gates. Both have lifetime warranty.

Any idea which part number the AC Delco was?
This thread should cover most of your questions.

My personal experience: https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/i-smell-it-where-to-look-for-small-coolant-leak.846120/#post-21715131

Part number was AC Delco 252-846

Related: https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/acdelco-or-other-brand-water-pump.846595/#post-21734608
 
61 - 80 of 81 Posts
Top