[yourguyry]

Hey guys, i am getting ready to start my system... i have made many before... but wondering what you guys thing i should replace stock system with for now...

for the Sevens in the back...

Phoenix Gold Octane ZR 6.5 Comp Component Speakers
Image Dynamics CXS6 (2 or 4 ohms what would you use??) (these are more expensive, but may be worth the extra $$)
Lightning Audio Bolt B1.65C Component Speaker (very cost effective)
Kicker K-series 02K65.2 Component Speaker System
MTX Audio Thunder8000 T8.6
Or any other suggestions

for the so called five inchers... that people say six and halfs fit with no work

Phoenix Gold Octane-ZR 6.0 Comp
Rockford Fosgate Punch P162S
Clarion Phaze 1 SRS1625
Or any other suggestions

What ohms would be best... most likely will be amping the two sevens in the back deck later on along with a JL12W6 in the trunk. (i have two JL12W6 but will only install one due to small trunk) i'll be doing this later when i get the money for amp and stuff to make trunk look Comp Grade

Also if you have any headunit ideas... i think i am going to go with an alpine, or Clarion... LCD sreen most likely

 

[josephra]

Also if you have any headunit ideas... i think i am going to go with an alpine, or Clarion... LCD sreen most likely

You might like an eclipse or kenwood 2 din HU for your car. They fill the big factory hole fairly well. here is what the kenwood 7015 looks like on my install. You will need custom faceplates either way you go (1 or 2 din).

good luck, you will have a nice system.

 

[TrakDay]

I am getting that double DIN Kenwood for mine, but I will use nothing but Focal mids and highs in my cars from now on. Until I hear something that is comparable I won't get anything less. They are simply the best sounding speakers i have ever owned. Expensive but very very very nice! Plus I put about 800 watts to my 2 component sets and additional set of tweeters.

 

[mistermike]

You have to listen to this stuff before YOU decide. There is no number in the world that tells you how a speaker sounds. There are certain Thiele/Small parameters that will tell you if a woofer is suitable for a given box or mounting situation. Wattage ratings are largely irrelevant, unless your goal is to produce heat rather than sound.

 

[straegen]

Phoenix Gold Octane ZR 6.5 Comp Component Speakers
Image Dynamics CXS6 (2 or 4 ohms what would you use??)
Lightning Audio Bolt B1.65C Component Speaker (very cost effective)
Kicker K-series 02K65.2 Component Speaker System
MTX Audio Thunder8000 T8.6

for the so called five inchers... that people say six and halfs fit with no work

Phoenix Gold Octane-ZR 6.0 Comp
Rockford Fosgate Punch P162S
Clarion Phaze 1 SRS1625
Or any other suggestions

What ohms would be best... most likely will be amping the two sevens in the back deck later on along with a JL12W6 in the trunk. (i have two JL12W6 but will only install one due to small trunk) i'll be doing this later when i get the money for amp and stuff to make trunk look Comp Grade

So long as you like the Phoenix front speakers, they are fine. I have never been a Kicker (good subs, not very good components) and have never heard Lightning Audio which does have great accessories or the MTX.

I am using Image Dynamics CXS speakers in my install and love their sound, but the are VERY power hungry (2 ohm is 150w). I am acutally slightly underpowering them as an experiment (125w) since I can always add extra amps that I have laying around later if I don't like the volume. The usual car audio geek will tell you 1.5 to 2 times amp power to speaker rating and some of the big experts go so high as 3 times the power. However, I heard an underpowered system and it sounded great so I am trying to match it for cost reasons.

The amps you listed are fine. I would add Directed to the list since they are inexpensive and good performers.

As for ohms it really doesn't matter so long as the amp you are buying puts out enough RMS power for the speakers, doesn't draw too much from the electrical system (an easy way to figure this is to add up the fuses on all your amps and consider that max draw... not exact but easy), and is stable to the ohms necessary to power the speakers (many amps are not 1 ohm stable). In subs, I usually recommend 1 or 2 ohm load and a class D amp. Sub power is usually the biggest draw in a car and 1 ohm loads with a high efficiency amp can real cut down on car electrical problems.

 

[straegen]

Wattage ratings are largely irrelevant, unless your goal is to produce heat rather than sound.

If we are talking in generalities, the higher the RMS/continuous rating of a speaker generally the more a speaker can take before melt down. Good speakers generally have higher wattage ratings. Sensitivity, response and cone materials are generally what people care about most when selecting based on "stats" of a speaker.

 

[yourguyry]

i hate buying all this stuff... (not really) but there are soo many different options here.

can anyone confirm that 6.5 fit all around in the front and rear seats... and that the rear deck are 7?? i guess i can take it all apart and check but i would rather wait till i am actually putting in the speakers. As we all know the more we take it apart... the more chance we have of rattles