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The battle of wits has begun.
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Photobucket = bag of dicks
New thread using Imgur.

This intake will not clear the stock hood .

I did it, so you don't have to. This will only work if you give zero smurfs about your stock hood. Or use some aftermarket one.
I did not try shorter motor mounts, too late to care now.

So to those that didn't read the previous thread, why install the TBSS intake manifold?
• It's cheap • It fits a 92mm throttle body • Tests show it flows better than the LS6.

What I didn't know before starting this project:
Dorman LS2 intake for $400. Supposedly its good, previous Dorman intakes were garbage, apparently they got this one right.
There is an option to have the LS2 snout plastic welded / epoxied to the LS6 intake. $600+ core charge.


Why did I do this? Simple, nobody had.



Here's what you start with:


Cut and plastic weld. (I plastic weld using a soldering iron.)



Don't use this much bondo. Correction, don't use bondo at all!




Days of sanding.


Primed & Ready for hydro dip.




Hydro dipped. (Don't do this inside, keep the water warm.)



Fuel Rails.



TIP: Don't use bondo. The bondo expands and contracts at different temps than the plastic. Leads to cracks in the paint.
 

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The battle of wits has begun.
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2,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
WARR 92mm throttle body on intake. (The throttle body required some slight fabrication to lessen the pressure of the dual springs that control the throttle blade.)


LS6 comparison.




Hood had to be cut.

Anteater intake.


This was short lived. The gloss black looks horrible. Flat black now.


Ugly but fuctional.
 

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The battle of wits has begun.
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2,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
If you can do it yourself, DO IT YOURSELF. I let my friend do the cuts in my hood, this is what I ended up with...



DYNO.


Don't fear failure, unless that failure results with fuel spraying from your fuel injectors, then FEAR IT!
We barely made it through the dyno pulls, the steel brackets I made to hold the fuel rails down would bend under fuel pressure which would allow the O-rings on the fuel injectors to "roll" causing fuel to spray from the fuel rails. Scary ass nightmare.

And to add insult to injury, I didn't compensate the slack in the throttle cable so full throttle was only 81% throttle while on the dyno.

Big THANK YOU! to Andrew's employees. They hooked me up with some fuel injector O-rings. (I ripped 2 while trying to re-seat the fuel injectors).
Also, a shout out to Andrew, he calmly sat in my deathtrap as it would spray fuel on every pull and he let me constantly band-aid the issue after each incident.


Results:
385rwhp by 360rwtq @ 81% throttle SAE

I previously made (stock throttle body, ls6 intake) 383rwhp by 347rwtq @ 100% throttle on a different style dyno so its difficult to use that as a baseline.

These were the mods:
Custom c6 DIY otrcai
92mm Warr Throttle Body
Custom TBSS Intake
SLP under-drive pulley
60 lb fuel injectors
Kooks Long Tubes 1 3/4
Kooks high flow cats
Stock 05 cat back exhaust
stock bottom end
stock 241 heads with upgraded valve springs
Solid motor mounts
Lunati Dual Link bar Lifters
CAM = 223/231, .625/.622 111 LSA
3800 single disk FTI stall
rebuilt 4l65e transmission
single piece aluminum driveshaft
stock 05 diff
 

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I've gotta say. I don't know enough nerdery to validate whether or not what you did was worth the effort. I'm not sure end result is my style, per se.

But what I do know is I completely admire your follow through.

From doing it all on your dining room table to going to far NOT to cut the hood. Respect.
 

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The battle of wits has begun.
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2,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
2 days after the dyno tune I heard a light tapping that matched revs. So I shut her down.

For the life of me I don't know what the tapping was.
Lunati street lifter [72332] failed on driver side.

Drained the Oil. No metal.
Rockers = all intact
Push rods = all straight
Springs = all appear good
lifters = again all appear good
lifters roller tips / cam lobes = no marks
Valves in stock heads = not in greatest shape but aren't bent
pistons = don't show signs of making love to valves

Thanks all for the info / tips, it has been greatly appreciated.
Decided since I had the heads off... lets replace the heads (as cost efficiently as possible).

Progress photos:

Not clean.

All clean.



That "cleaning" was a LOT of effort and a bitch to do. Never plan to do that again.

Got a set of 243s. Took them to a machine shop and had them milled .020
New valve springs and new valves. Went with 2.02 on the intake valves. Thought was, they would take up a little extra space raising the compression ever so slightly. I did not consider quench area at all in that decision making. Oh well.


 

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The battle of wits has begun.
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2,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
You need a lil hood bulge or somn.
All in time. :thumbs:

I've gotta say. I don't know enough nerdery to validate whether or not what you did was worth the effort. I'm not sure end result is my style, per se.

But what I do know is I completely admire your follow through.

From doing it all on your dining room table to going to far NOT to cut the hood. Respect.
Thanks. If it did clear the hood, still not worth it. A lot of work / effort went into this despite how ugly it appears.
 

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I've gotta say. I don't know enough nerdery to validate whether or not what you did was worth the effort. I'm not sure end result is my style, per se.

But what I do know is I completely admire your follow through.

From doing it all on your dining room table to going to far NOT to cut the hood. Respect.
:mswerd:

at least now we all know for sure.
 

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The battle of wits has begun.
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2,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Heads are on.
Intake is on.
I used COMP CAMS pushrod length checker to measure pushrod length. Came out to being 9 turns which means 7.25 + .030-.050 for preload so I ordered 7.3 pushrods. Ended up getting the 5/16 .080wall trickflows 7.3 length.

Checked and rechecked to make sure all my pushrods were in the correct positions. Hand tightened down the rocker bolts.
Then this is where I smurfed up!
I torqued my rockers down to 22lbs but I Didn't have the Crank positioned for TDC with Piston 1. I had it TDC for Piston 2 :facepalm: After realizing my mistake, I figured I already torqued down the bolts... just keep going. THEN I also realized that with the heads on and some of the rockers torqued down, I could no longer spin the crank by hand, and I don't have a 24mm socket. So again, smurf it, I torqued ALL rocker bolts down to 22lbs.

So now I need to get a 24mm socket so I can turn the crank 180 degrees and double check all the rockers are at 22lbs. So much for following the proper procedure...



It has been a "fun" learning experience since I completed the TBSS intake 3 months ago. :facepalm:
 

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A4 PBM/RED 1 of 631-now 1of1
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any gains? :)
 

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So does it feel better down low? Does it idle better? I was thinking about doing a carbon bowl hood and if it’s worth it I’ll change to this intake. I think the Dorman one I have is causing me a very weak idle. I’d like to be able to set my idle at 700-750 instead of 800
 

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You guys must’ve missed the thread where he’s been taking his motor apart multiple times...
 

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The battle of wits has begun.
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=827986


Nothing went well in Oct.

After all the troubleshooting (see posted thread link) I ordered 4 replacement sets of 72332 Lunati lifters.

Never using anything from Lunati again would be ideal, but $200 to solve / rule out the tapping noise seems worth it to me. If it solves the problem, celebrate with copious amounts of beer. If it doesn't, time to cry in a corner.

The lifters arrived today, not sure how soon I plan to do this because I'm working outside and I hate the cold.
 

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Switch to Vodka? Isn't that how the Russians keep warm?
 

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re

So do you have dyno numbers since getting your speed density tune---danfigg
 
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