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Freedom Fighter
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730 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am buying RR bushings on both ends. My front left RR bushing is original, dry and cracking. The front right was replaced after a fender bender about 8 years ago and it is leaking fluid, so these have to go. The RR bushings at the LCA are rotting on both sides. This is all easy to see.

How do i tell if I need new ball joints and inner control arm bushings. I got under the car today and they look fine, but I figure there might be other ways of checking othe than just an eye test. I ask because it would be easier to buy a new whiteline control arm if I have to replace more than just RR bushings.

However, those prefabricated arms cost $300+ a pair, so if my joints and bushings are good, I would rather not spend it and just do the RR bushings.

Appreciate your help in advance!
 

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ಠ_ಠ
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34,650 Posts
They are unloaded ball joints, so just jack the car up and yank on the tire/wheel and see if the joints have play.

Same with the control arm bushings, i would think. See if there is much give when you try to move it around.

FWIW, i don't remember seeing many reports of these parts typically going bad on GTO's. Mostly just the strut mounts and bearings take dumps, which do handle the weight.
 

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Freedom Fighter
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730 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
They are unloaded ball joints, so just jack the car up and yank on the tire/wheel and see if the joints have play.

Same with the control arm bushings, i would think. See if there is much give when you try to move it around.

FWIW, i don't remember seeing many reports of these parts typically going bad on GTO's. Mostly just the strut mounts and bearings take dumps, which do handle the weight.
Thanks, I had the car on ramps and it had no play at the ball joints. I will see if it does at the inner control arm tomorrow. The LCA control arm bushings are definitely worn though as well as the front RR bushings, as these are also wear points on our cars.
 

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U can touch it if you want to
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534 Posts
The LCA bushings are not as intimidating as they might appear.

Some careful planning and a dash of creativity, anyone can do them. Not necessary to buy the pre bushed replacement arms.
 

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Kollar Racing Products
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5,395 Posts
As long as you have the tools to press the old bushings and ball joints out the oem arms are easily rebuilt. I prefer using the W53175 Whiteline bushing...the two piece construction is easier to install then the W51233. The problem with 51233 is if the bushing isnt square in the arm when pressing you destroy the new bushing. Ball joint wise...I have Pedders in stock right now...RoadSafe is about 2 weeks out. The RoadSafe is genuine Holden in a RoadSafe Box and is better quality then Pedders. Whiteline is always in stock
 

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Pontiac Fanboy
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994 Posts
Don't forget to factor in the labor savings in those pre-fabricated Whiteline arms.
Being able to just bolt in new upgraded bushings without screwing around with a press and cutting and cleaning and painting (if you care) was very satisfying.
 

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Freedom Fighter
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730 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Don't forget to factor in the labor savings in those pre-fabricated Whiteline arms.
Being able to just bolt in new upgraded bushings without screwing around with a press and cutting and cleaning and painting (if you care) was very satisfying.
Yeah that's why I was checking on the longevity of the ball joints and inner LCA bushings. If they are wearing, I would prefer to just get the pre-fab arms.
 

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As long as you have the tools to press the old bushings and ball joints out the oem arms are easily rebuilt. I prefer using the W53175 Whiteline bushing...the two piece construction is easier to install then the W51233. The problem with 51233 is if the bushing isnt square in the arm when pressing you destroy the new bushing. Ball joint wise...I have Pedders in stock right now...RoadSafe is about 2 weeks out. The RoadSafe is genuine Holden in a RoadSafe Box and is better quality then Pedders. Whiteline is always in stock
Is there a performance/longevity difference between W53175 and W51233? A long time ago I supposedly had the Noltec equivalent to W51233 installed but I am chasing down some tire wear/road noise issues so trying to weigh all my options, I'm at 93k and have seen a front right suspension collision before so I am thinking doing tie-rod ends is step one (still on the ones that came with the car). It looks like the prefabbed arms have W53175. The collision damaged my radius rod bushings so had all those replaced at 30k with Noltecs.
 

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Kollar Racing Products
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5,395 Posts
W51233 Whiteline and N51233 Noltec are SIMILAR but not the same. Both use a Metal Shell but the Whiteline uses a significantly better poly. The OLD Blue Noltec dries out with age...turning to powder or falls apart
 

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W51233 Whiteline and N51233 Noltec are SIMILAR but not the same. Both use a Metal Shell but the Whiteline uses a significantly better poly. The OLD Blue Noltec dries out with age...turning to powder or falls apart

If that's true I will need to look into replacing both radius rod bushings, strut mounts, rear subframe bushings, diff insert, and the front LCA bushings... :eek:
 

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30 Posts
Bushings are relatively cheap, front CAs are easy to drop. Since it is apart replace all of them and sleep well. As long you are in the area look at the sway bar links; if they are OEM or stock replacements they are likely to be bent, Whitelines have much more beef
 
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