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Dick Ross
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7,241 Posts
Headspacing is almost of no concern when you buy quality parts. I have built several ARs and I haven't had a single one have headspacing problems. It is good to check though. I'd get a set of headspace guages and a bolt disassembly tool. The hardest thing about building an upper is tightening the barrel nut, and that's not hard.

You need to get;

Go/no go guages (headspace)

BCG disassembly tool

Punch set

Small mallet / hammer

Painters tape (prevents scratches)

Vice block

Copper antisieze (for barrel nut and barrel)

1/2" torque wrench
 

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Dick Ross
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7,241 Posts
Build what you want the first time. I will always build my ARs
 

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Registered lurker
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535 Posts
With assembled uppers being so danged inexpensive these days building your own would most likely be the more expensive proposition. I want to reconfigure my old M4gery with a freefloat tube, & an assembled PSA upper in the desired configuration isn't all that much more expensive ($275-300) than just the freefloat tube ($100-300).

The main special tools you should have to assemble an upper are the upper "clamshell" clamp ($20-30) & the barrel nut wrench or adapter (may come with the freefloat tube or use the standard AR armorers wrench). Torque wrench, small punches, vise & common tools are also needed.
 

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Dick Ross
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7,241 Posts

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Super Moderator
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12,172 Posts
Go ahead breaker.

Built another lower today with a buddy of mine. First one in about 2 years. Fun times.
 

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Buckethead
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2,033 Posts
What ya got?
I have one that was built. I got it off someone else (that was before a terrible boating accident and it's lost somewhere in the Indian Ocean)

Now, I know the lower is a Bushmaster, but other parts I do not know what they are. Unless I'm not looking in the right place, I see no marks on the upper.

The second question escapes me right now, but another: I have been told I can fire .223 and 5.56, but I'd like to be 100% about that. I did send a few 5.56 downrange with no ill effects, I am only buying .223 currently. What's a sure-fire way to know? (pun intended).
 

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12,172 Posts
What is stamped on the barrel?
 

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Dick Ross
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7,241 Posts
Like mr. Black said. The barrel will have a caliber designation. You can shoot .223 in a 5.56, not the other way around. 5.56 operates at a higher pressure and has a slightly longer chamber to account for this. If it's a .223 wylde, both can be shot as well.
 
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Buckethead
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2,033 Posts
What is stamped on the barrel?
Like mr. Black said. The barrel will have a caliber designation. You can shoot .223 in a 5.56, not the other way around. 5.56 operates at a higher pressure and has a slightly longer chamber to account for this. If it's a .223 wylde, both can be shot as well.
The barrel is stamped Stag Arms 5.56 NATO 1/9
The lower is a Bushmaster .223-5.56
 

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Super Moderator
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12,172 Posts
The barrel is stamped Stag Arms 5.56 NATO 1/9
The lower is a Bushmaster .223-5.56
You are good to go. Shoot whatever floats your boat in there. .223 or 5.56
 
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873 Posts
Didn’t know this thread existed in all my 4 years or so of being here.
completed a build recently but have yet to test fire it.Got a complete basic kit from Daytona tactical with a SS 16” barrel w/o the lower. I’m all in for about $600 having paid a premium for the Anderson lower a couple years ago. Being a newbie the build isn’t bad at all and suggest getting familiar with parts is most helpful.
I also bought the RealAvid build tool kit and not knowing my way around the gun I didn’t use it to its full capacity but the barrel lock tool is awesome. I was able to clock flash hider without taking off the gas tube.
cant wait to shoot it but want to be 110% sure it’s CA compliant before I go out. I have a mag lock with features but am still iffy.
Bought it for range fun and may want to get another upper for long range fun.
 
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