Yea, I would not drive it to work acting like that. No way. add some timing at idle. it'll increase the rpm. use your scanner to change it and see what it likes. Sometimes you gotta add alot of idle air. A gto I tuned not long ago wanted double the air that the factory numbers were. I'd set the idle at 850 to begin with. Idle tuning with a drive by wire car is a piece of cake. You have to pay attention to cells in the idle rpm area, higher and lower than your idle rpm...the fueling can not make a huge change from one rpm range to the next. 3-5 numbers at the most. Sometimes less...depends on if it surges or not. Follow the same idea with the timing at idle. You have to under a few things:I did go with the jam cam. I started it up and everything seems good. Idle is really rough at the moment though and I've been chasing my tail trying to get it smoothed out. Increasing the base rpm doesn't seem to do much, it still manages to idle at around 600 on average even though it's set at 1000. Increasing the airflow final minimum tables doesn't seem to help much either. I feel like I'm missing something to help get this sorted out. I've looked at idle cam tuning guides but they have different/more parameters than the Gto and the guides are never specific enough for my ECU.
Any tips or useful links? I really want to drive my car to work tomorrow morning and start logging data for the VE table but I'm worried about how it's gonna idle in traffic, not to mention I need to replace my battery so if it happens to stall multiple times then I might be stuck with a dead battery.
-large fuel swings from cell to cell is a no no
-large timing changes from cell to cell is a no no...its really sensitive with timing
-if you have too much timing at idle, you will get a dip in rpm as you stop..if may even stall. So basically if the rpm gets the highest with 25 degree, shoot for about 18 at idle and let teh over/under idle timing correct. its gives you timing leeway to catch a dip in idle....timing reacts faster than air