LS1GTO Forums banner
21 - 40 of 62 Posts

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Short vid of some of the work I did

 

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
After hand sanding out a LOT the casting marks. I decided doing this by hand was better. The blower had hardly any miles on it and I didn't feel the entire thing needed to be disassembled. Hand sanding creates less dust and debris-reducing the chances of garbage getting past the masking tape. After sanding, I did use several cotton swabs with a forceps to wipe the machined surface of the blower casing-where the casing and rotors meet.
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
These are the CTS-V rims I picked up. The car was involved in an accident and then caught fire. The rims were kind of crispified, but I managed to clean them up a little.

THIS POST
- Pic #1:
Both fronts (stacked), one rear before any cleaning
- Pic #2:
Both fronts (stacked), one rear after initial cleaning
- Pic #3:
Rim/tire along side the car (seeing how it looked)
- Pic #4:
Rear rim/tire before any cleaning
- Pic #5:
Rear rim/tire after first cleaning
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
It took a while, but I got the parts I had made for the indep. S/C belt drive back. It went in and aligned pretty good, but I wasn't 100% happy with the clearances. It was hard to hold the camera and tape measure and get a good picture, but below are the pictures I took before I started working on the block. The thickness for the alignment of the S/C belt tensioner seemed to be SPOT ON, but there was only 7/16" between the side of the block and the belt (coming off the water pump). There was also a slight clearance issue at the top, between the accessory belt drive tensioner and the block.

EDIT: Last pic is the material I sanded off the side of the block. See next post for additional info. on that (doing this to save space and not have 3 posts)
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
After making a couple of marks on the block (see above pics), I used a hack saw to remove some of the material from the block. I then used the hack saw to score the side of the block-which faced the issue when I thought the belt was a little too close to the block. Once I cut in a couple dozen lines, I used some sand paper to work off that side. I opted to use 150 grit round paper with a sticky backing. This way, it would adhere to my working table and also have a somewhat smooth surface to get the material off.

Once I finished, I gave myself about another 1/8" clearance, but the block didn't look as 'blocky'-and sort of looked a little more like something which might have come from the factory. It did take a while using sand paper, but I figured, since I scored the block with the hack saw, it would go a little easier. Plus, I was using a flat, stable surface and Aluminum is a softer metal.
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I posted a few days ago about a ultra rare part that I thought I was ging to get.
Then, a few hours later I pulled that post. Unfortuately, the part wasn't what I needed and I couldn't get it. I'm not overly upset, as it was $1,500. Now, it looks like I have to manually modify the LS9 snout to work. It's not what I wanted to do, but necessary. Last Sunday, I ordered a new LSA 'driveshaft' (which is longer than the LS9). How much longer, I am not 100% sure. The driveshaft was about $10 more for the LSA than the LS9 - which I find to be funny, being EVERYTHING on the LS9 costs more.

Of course, I'm taking an expensive part and hacking it all up so I can make it MORE expensive...I mean, why not?

There are still a billion tings I need to do to the car to get it completed. The goal is to be able to turn the key at the end of April. It's a pretty stout order to fill, but the first car show I'd like to go to is in May. It will be all hands on deck from here on out.

I was looking at the outer casing for the LS9 and it was about as rough as the interior of it. Even if I tried a few coats of paint, it was not going to be the showpiece that I wanted. The rear runner on the driver side had a HUGE pit in it, while there were all kinds of waves and such all over the entire casing - especially around the top, where it meets the lid. Really, it looked bad!


PIC #1:
Pass. side front injector recess - pre sanding.
PIC #2:
Driver side rear runner (view #1) pre sanding.
PIC #3:
Driver side rear runner (view #2) pre sanding.
PIC #4:
Pass side view w/ light sanding (reveals casting marks front angle).
PIC #5:
Pass side view w/ light sanding (reveals casting marks rear angle).
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
After hours of sanding, the casing is MUCH smoother and (I believe) will look better once painted Pontiac Blue Metallic. I'm not 100% sure how I'm going to do the lid. I wanted to polish some of it to give it a throwback to the ontiac's of yore - with the chrome valve and air cleaner covers.

If you notive in the pictures, I did start sanding the areas where the lid and casing meet. This area was wavy in most of the areas. If you see picture #1 below, you can see the upper lip area to the left of the picture and how wavy that was with an initial sanding. Picture #2 shows after sanding with the casing and lip bolted together and smoothed.

Before anyone posts, I am NOT going to polish this thing! I don't have the kind of time to do and maintain it.


PIC #1:
Driver side rear runner after 120 grit sanding.
PIC #2:
Driver side rear runner after 300 grit sanding (with lid &fuel rails).
PIC #3:
Driver side front casting marks around area of front bolt (initial sanding).
PIC #4:
Driver side front casting marks around area of front bolt (additional sanding w. S/C flipped).
PIC #5:
Driver side - S/C flipped to see if additional sanding was needed - better angle.
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
There has been a WHOLE lot going on...and I am in the final stretch to get MuNG!i done...

As of right now, the rear brakes, Lovells Springs and shocks are all off the car. I'm in the process of cleaning up all the rusty suspension bits, so I can put it all back together. The rear Brembo's were powder coated a Satin Gold. I chose this because everyone seems to have silver or black brakes. Silver is nice, but I wanted something just a little bit diferent from the rest. Because the color pops so much int he sun, I didn't want to overpower the whole presence of the car. Below aresome pictures of the brakes with a color swatch I rescued from a B.O.M. front bumper.

The front rims are in Indiana, getting narrowed at Weldcraft. I should have them back in a few weeks (fingers crossed). Once that's all done, then they have to be coated (chrome face and dark chrome recesses and barrel). Below is the best I could do with showing what the rims look like on the car:
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Also, I cleaned and recoated the rear (Strange) Coilovers. These came on my donor GTO, but list for about $1K. The first pic shows the before and after an initial cleaning. I had every intention of putting these on the car, but I had numerous motor problems which took (basically) all of my time. The second pic is after I had the springs recoated to match the Brembo's.
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
There are more things I could post, like:

1). the imported console.
2). The imported tail lights I'm customizing
3). The broken trunk insert I had that I'm modifying
4). The LS9 Snout I modified to fit under a stock hood
5). The single A-Pillar gauge pod I'm modifying
60. Intercooler system (which is SO COOL).
7). Coil Pack brackets

...ugh...but I don't have to time to explain and post up all the pictures. Well, here's a teaser pic of the center console project I'm doing. The console on top of the motor was imported in from Aussie Land!...

ENJOY!
 

Attachments

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Progress on MuNG!i has been SLOW. There have been a few setbacks, as well as some family issues which have needed to be taken care of. The project is 22 months in the making and counting...HOWEVER....

Yoday, I picked up the CTS-V rims and custom S/C hub for the LS9! I'm hoping this long weekend will give me some time to get a LOT of muchly needed things done on the car. The past few weekends were spent scaling down the frame and underpinnings to remove some rust. Unfortunately, this car was my daily for 2 years and the Illinois salt did cause some rust. The vast majority of that was removed, coated with Por 15 and topcoated (primer / paint)...

I will post pictures this weekend as I get the mess I made in the garage cleaned up ;-)

I also got some parts in from G-Force Engineering. Specifically their Toe Rod ends and the diff. mount. Everting was pretty much out of the way todo the Diff mount and for only $270-ish, it didn't break the bank. I hope it does change the handling, as a few guys in the Chicago Holden Connection were asking me about it.

Lastly, some of the parts I've been modding w/ fiberglass are shaping up really well (pun intended). I had some grandeous design ideas for that center console, using carbon fiber over the silver / grey areas. While experimenting with some concepts of how to lay the carbon fiber, I concluded this was TOO MUCH of a headache to do. I would have to sand the plastic down to almost nothing, in order to get this to work properly. I've since scrapped this idea and am just going to paint it a matte silve (but I plan to do something tasteful in a few areas where I plan to have some special people sign it)
 

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
498478

After scaling down the frame rails (which had a ton of little bubbles under the top coat), and grinding off some of the rust, I went over everything with Por-15. I then primed and painted the underside of the car.

If you know much about Brazen Orange, the color doesn't cover very good. It will look fine under one light, but as you get it under a bright light, you see where you missed. I'm not too concerned with the cverage because it's bete now than it was. But you can see what I did and (trust me) this looks MUCH better!!

Now, to replace those toe rod ends...


498479


This is a pic of the Brembo's...well, one of them. As hard as I try to get this thing done, I always run into a 'bump' in the road. I used a flat gold metallic, which I think looks pretty decent with the Brazen Orange. I went this route because:
1). I want people to see the brakes. With all the parts involved, powder coating and this is around a $2500 conversion. I want people to notice it, but not for it to overpower the main color of the car.
2). Everyone does black...and quite frankly, I feel it's over done. Some cars look really good with everything blacked out. I just wanted to be different.
3). There is always a #3...so here you go!
4). You can get a sense of how much rust I scaled off the suspension of the car by looking at the outline of the floor jack.

498480


I ordered these parts from G-Force and figured it would take me a few hours to install. I wanted a Harrop Diff cover. Then I read up about them and they definitely do help with handling. The drawback is the diff. oil doesn't circulate as good as the stock cover. For around the same $$$, I got the G-Force Diff Mount and the toe rod ends. Ordered around July 15th, got them on Aug. 28th...which is REALLY good for GTO parts!

498481


After sweeping up under the car, this is the rust I managed to get off the car. Less rust = less weight = RACE CAR!
 

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
...and then I goit to work, installing the diff mount.

First thing, you should ALWAYS do is give the old bolts a good squirt of penetrating oil...which I did...

...

...twice!

There is a little access hole where the differential mount, mounts. It's located on the back side (rear aspect, in regards to orientation of the car), which is big enough for you to get a finger into. I was able to get some PB Blaster in there (using a brake cleaner nozzle tube to help direct it better). I was then able to touch the top of the bolts to make sure the oil got onto each one. Even after doing this, I managed to snap a bolt. I then drilled it out and tried using an "EASY" out...which also broke off! See pic below.

498482


498483


You're using an M8 bolt,which isn't very big to begin with and trying to back it out was not an easy task. I was told to use a torch to heat up the bolt / broken easy out and f you blast it with cold air or an ice cube, it would come out. In theory, this is a GREAT idea. In application, it didn't work...not even a little. I mean, that #@$% was smoking and even glowing a little and it wouldn't budge!!!

I wound up having to get a bunch of drill bits (I think they were 5/16's) and drilled around the broken easy out. Even that didn't work. Iended up using a 7/16 hole saw to make an access hole next to the broken bolt / easy out combo...then used a chisel to break the broken bolt from it's prison....

So, and hour job, took me almost my entire Labor Day weekend!!! Below is the little mother effer...

You can see where I drilled into the bolt and where there is a little gap on the far end of the easy out. If I do say so myself, that looks REALLY good and is about 'text book' for how to drill a broken bolt
498484


This just shows you how I drilled along the side of the bolt. You can also see the hexagonal easy out inside of the bolt. Just another piece to add to my "Wall of Shame!"

498485


Not pictured are the sockets (plural) I managed to break and the puddle of power steering fluid that now pours out of my car from the power steering line in my G6 convertible...which I just replaced!!! Yeah, the one line I could get broke. The one I remanufactured from the old lines is still intact and dry! Gotta love the dip (-explicatives-) at GM who designed the G6. Who puts a RUBBER power steering line, right under the catalytic converter???

You may not notice, but this is my sarcastic "Happy" face. I was really NOT a happy camper at this moment, but the Cider Boys sure did taste pretty good!

498486


...and no, that ding in the door behind me is NOT from all the frustration I was having and is not form me being a raging lunatic. I'm not exactly sure what it's from...
 

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Has it been 2 months already?!?

So, I managed to get that problem (above) fixed. I had to use my Dremel and at least 4 heavier duty cutting wheels (maybe a few more...I forget) to make this hole. It's not the prettiest cut, but there isn't a whole lot of room in there. The metal for that diff mount is a good 3/8" thick and I wanted to match the thicknesses. Luckily, I had an old brace from something someone was throwing away. It was a similar thickness...anyway, here is the hole I cut:
499077




Followed by the raw patch I cut out (using a hack saw). The hole was already drilled, so I did my best to just use the pre-drilled hole. It was a close cut, but I still had to taper the ends and get the hole closer to the correct spot.

499078




I used a piece of stiff cardboard to get the general location. When I went to weld it in place, I had to use a scrap piece of sheet metal to get the holes to line up correctly. Now, I could have welded a bolt into the diff mount (fame) and just put a nut on, to hole the G-Force diff mount in place; but I wanted this to look right. I know how I am and if I went under the car and saw a nut where a bolt should be, it would make me CRaZy! Plus, I want this to be right and not hacked together.

It took a while to grind the patch down to the correct size and shape, but after that was done, I welded a nut to the back. The rest was EASY!!! Here's the patch all welded in place:

499079



and with the mount bolted in place (only finger tight):

499080



499081


Then I coated it with Por-15, painted it and finished the install.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LS2-GTO

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
The goal for Labor day was to "TRY" to get everything in the rear buttoned up and finsihed. The broken bolt and daily driver troubles easily put an end to all of that. However, I did get around to (almost) completing the back of the car. I did manage to get the rear Brembo's installed and the rest of the G-Force Engineering parts put on. I have to admit, I was a little impressed with the way it's turning out...


499084



499083



499082
 
  • Like
Reactions: Glynn

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
But with EVERY seemilgly good turn of events, another problem arises. Such as, trying to figure out what size tire I'm going to put on the 9.5" Cadillac CTS-V rims out back. I did a mock up and jacked up the "A"-arm to where the aproximate level as to where the rim would sit. I really like what I see, but there is a clearance issue in the inner fender well. Looks like I'm going to be doing some more cutting and welding to the back of the car.
NOTE: NOT on the car are the: SAP rear bumper, custom trunk filler panel, custom tail lights, Rhys Millen Fenders and custom side skirts...

499085




I drew this up, to get an idea of what the Rhys Millen fenders and side skirts will look like on my car. Note, the Holden / Vauxhall CV8-Z skirts have 3 fake vents in them, which I don't think will look good with the 2 vents in the fenders / SAP rear bumper. I have a set of the SAP side skirts, but those are too square, where the SAP / Millen vents are more rectangular. Plus, I like how there is that upward arc in the CV8-Z skirts which match the tail lights (and my trunk insert I'm working on...

499088




This was my trunk insert, before some douche went ahead and broke it for me. I saved as many of the pieces as I could find. I did my best at gluing it back together, but it still looked like garbage. So, I went ahead with customizing this as well. I used a tail light to mimic the curve on paper. cut out some bits of the insert, then glassed it over. This is just set onto the rear bumper over the OEM original piece.
** If you look at the customized piece, you can see where a good portion of the bottom lip was broken off (about mid arch on the left, almost to the center of the insert) & J/B welded back on. **

499089



My crappy phone rendering of the rear insert panel and custom tail lights I'm making:

499090





What inspired me to use CTS-V rims was because of this car, belonging to Eddy Tassone. I love the overall look, but those rims are SUPER expensive. I think JHP wants $5K for a set.


499086



499087




The second I saw this BEAST of a car, I was hooked...and it's the rims which really made the overall look for me. However, for $5,000, you can keep them. Instead, the CTS-V rims are very similar...but need some work to make them fit. What I did was
:

1). buy a set of sedan rims off FB. The car had an engine fire and was being parted out. The rims looked really bad, but they are still structurally sound and not out of round (bought the rims for $600.
2). Clean the rims, try to remove the burnt powder coating and soke soot ($60 for paint remover and plastic scrapers)
** This didn't work out all that well, and am looking for someone who can use a stronger chemical stripper **
2). Send the fronts out to be narrowed from 8.5" to 8" (special shout out goes to Weldcraft in Indiana for doing this for me). Shipping them there was $118 and the narrowing was $175 per wheel...($468)
3). Open the wheel hub to fit the GTO. I had this done locally for $200 (which I thought was SUPER cheap).
4). Lastly, I am thinking of having these PVD coated in 'Chrome'. There is a place in Rock Island IL who will do it for $210 / rim. I'll post up pictures once I have them done.

Grand total (if I go with the PVD coating) will be $2,168 ... not including the cleaning and fixing any possible scratches / damage on the rims prior to caoting. This is a far cry less than the $5K. Plus, if I bend a rim I can easily get another. The Holden rims (like the ones on Eddy Tassone's car) aren't easy to come by state side - especially if you only need one.
 

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
...I managed to find these emblems (G.M. Holden / Vauxhall CV8) for sale abroad. Because of the fenders I'm fixing, I'm probably NOT going to put the chrome "6.0 Litre" badges back on. The car happens to be a 6.8 Litre now, so that wouldn't be right ;-) . Still, I wanted something that pays tribute to these Holden built cars, while still maintaining how this car is still a Yankee "Pontiac" GTO. I've always loved how the CV8's looked and when I saw these for sale, I got an idea. When these showed up in the mail, they were MUCH bigger than I expected (that is a 6" ruler in the pic below). Now, you'll be able to see these seen from further away than the OEM "Pontiac GTO" emblems on the fender (wing if your across the pond)...


499091



499092


I may paint or use some vinyl to get the center a litttle darker gray vinyl...but because I am NOT going with genuine CV8 side skirts (aftermarket fiberglass), I was (possibly) going to use some plexi and cut it to fit under the "GTO" emblems. Then, have them light up amber. This way, they will look like they have a halo or glow around the emblems. I might even (POSSIBLY) hook them up to the turn signals / fog / running lights.

This is ONLY an idea that I'm messing with...as if I don't have enough projects going on for the car already!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
That rear tail light setup that you are making... You can swap in the VX calais tail light garnish, with the VX tail lights and it will give you what you are designing. I am currently getting that whole setup shipped to me right now. Just a suggestion.
 

·
Chickun maka lousy houspet
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
That rear tail light setup that you are making... You can swap in the VX calais tail light garnish, with the VX tail lights and it will give you what you are designing. I am currently getting that whole setup shipped to me right now. Just a suggestion.
You mean these (VT tails) :

499095
 
21 - 40 of 62 Posts
Top