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Pontiac Fanboy
1,581 Posts
You mentioned Harrop cover oil flow concerns, do you have any links to those discussions? I'm familiar with the issue in other applications but never saw anything concrete regarding GTO/Monaro.

Any concern with the rear coilovers snapping the shock mount on the control arm?

Favorite picture, great color scheme.

Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
You mentioned Harrop cover oil flow concerns, do you have any links to those discussions? I'm familiar with the issue in other applications but never saw anything concrete regarding GTO/Monaro.

Any concern with the rear coilovers snapping the shock mount on the control arm?

Favorite picture, great color scheme.
I'll look to see if I can find the info, but I remember reading it somewhere. Not that the G-Force is bad, but the Harrop looks like it could handle a LOT more power.

3,307 Posts
DAMN. I just read this whole thread. Hoping it was done and to see the final result. :(

This is my favorite color too. I hope to find one this color one day for a deal. Maybe a roller. Transfer my crap to it and sell mine.

Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I just got the rest of my Black Friday purchase today, which consisted of:
  • DW300iL fuel pump.
  • Whiteline adjustable front/rear sways (Silver powder coated - why???).
  • Whiteline lower control arms (w/ polyurethane bushings).
  • Pedders radius rod bushings (adjustable).

It will be a little while before I get the sway bars on because I'm probably going to have them powder coated satin gold metallic to match the brakes and coilover springs. Chances are, nobody is going to be paying much atention to them.

Because it takes too long to warm up the garage after work, I haven't been spending as much time out there. The weekends are when I get most of my larger projects done, as I can turn on the heat. This way, I can work out there all weekend. During the week, I have to resort to smaller, projects....such as:

Well, to preface this, I imported a set of VT tail lights (amber turn signal). They didn't have a back up light, but figured I could modify them. When I pulled them apart, this is what they looked like:

When I saw how the red lends was sorta squared off and recessed, I HAD to change my whole thought process ont he back ond of the car. NOBODY has tail lights like this!!! How cool wouldit be to make these work in the GTO??? So, I made this cruddy rendering for my idea for the back of the car w/ these tail lights, trunk insert (which I'm working on and almost done with) and SAP rear bumper. I used my cell phone's photo editor to show what I intend on doing. I do have an SAP rear bumper and want the whole back end of the car to look somehting like this (minus the "GTO" tail pipe):


Here is an old pic of the tail lights with the trunk insert:


I have a couple sets of broken tail lights of various years. Sometimes, I had to buy broken P.O.S. to get a really nice one. Over time, I managed to find 13 sets of tail lights...not 13 tail lights, 13 SETS (yes...that's 26 individual tail lights). Because I had many broken bits, I was able to piece together my idea for these.

What I hacked up.
Top of pic is garbage (which I am keeping...because you never know)
Bottom of pic are some bit's I'll used in the fabbing of the new tails:


The tail lights, set together. These are not glued or bonded together in any way. Instead, I taped and strategically balanced the parts in their relative positions.


I then started to use some J/B Weld to glue them back together. One thing I didn't realize is, the VT tail light harnesses are MUCH different than the '04 and '06 tail light harness. For this reason, I had to use parts from the broken tail lights to get them to be able to work with what I have. This is my progress as of Thanksgiving weekend:



The rendering I made on my cell phone hardly does these justice. I then drew a picture, using a photo of a car with an SAP rear bumper and these tail lights. What really got me was when you look at the vents, above the exhaust (see picture of the Brazen SAP GTO earlier), they almost resemble the shape of the tail light lenses. This wasn't something I saw right away...but it's almost like these should have been the tail lighst offered in the SAP GTO!


Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Hello (all those who are reading this. It seems like forever since I posted on here...and it has!

With the CoVID stuff going on, one would think I would be able to spend more time on MuNG!i!, but Ihaven't. I'm considered and "Essential Worker", so it's business as ususal.

There is what I've been doing to the car.

I needed to get more done on the gauge pods. I had a A-Pillar pod that I modded by removing the pod from the pillar and moving it backwards by about 7 inches. I also rotated it from the 3 O'Clock position to the 5:45 position on the pillar. By doing this, it was no longer in my windsheild view. It was also closer to the steering wheel.


By repositioning the pod, I can easily access the boost reset button on the gauge.


Looking through the door, here is the gaue locations / positions. If you look closely, you can see the slots in the center console for the cup holders. This was NOT an option, here in the Land of the Yanks, but in Aussie-Land, it was. I feel it should have been an option. I mean, if you have an M6 car, when you go through the gears, your arm is on top of the cup holder. This makes it really difficult to drive with a coffee. Cup holders next to the radio = problem solved.


* Not pictured is the NEW STEERING WHEEL. *
* Not pictured is the NEW STEERING WHEEL. *

I'm not going to divlge what it is (YET), but it is NOT from a GTO, it is NOT an HSV nor is it a Walkinshaw! I've always liked the interior of the GTO, but that steering wheel looked like something from bumper car at an old amusement park. It looked...wrong, especially for the car. I have a one that I'm going to try to get to work. Below is some moreGTO Interior porn!


About a month ago, I tried to get the sway bar out...which is NOT an easy task. Also, with the long tubes in place couldn't I remove the power steering lines either. This could be a BAD situation if I ever needed to get the power steering rack out. To help remedy this I used some flexible stainless steel braided PTFE line (bought 20 feet rom Summit Racing). I figured that would work best, especially if I needed to drop the rack, I could remove a single bracket and cut a couple of zip ties to give myself some slack to pull the rack.

NOTE: If you decide to use PTFE lines, you need to stick with the SAME manufacturer for the fittings AND the hose. One brand will NOT be compatable with another! I did NOT know this. I bought the Summit brand braided stainless steel lines because they were thinner than the competiters. However, I ordered Earls fittings. They did NOT work and I had to reorder Summit PTFE fittings!!!

If any of you were able to remove the OEM sway bar without dropping the engine cradle, you're a better person than me. This is NOT an easy task! I screwed with this over the course of several weekends (or until I got so fed up, I moved along to another project). Anyway, the best option was to pull the motor AGAIN! This is NOT something I wanted to do, but it was definitely necessary:



HA! (^^) You can see some tools and the trans cross member in the trans tunnel!

Within 20 minutes (no joke) I had both, the P/S lines and sway bar out! After removing all of that out of the way, I was able to see how bad the engine bay looked. So, I used my Dremel with various grinding and wire wheel tips to start cleaning off the rust from the engine cradle. This is after I started removing the rust. You might notice, there is overspray on the frame rails from a previous accident. This always drove me nuts and that was about as clean as I could get it.

Sorta Before:


...and AFTER (cleaning):


I used Por-15 to coat the engine cradle:


The finish was kind of rough. I think there were bubbles or somthing in the Por-15. I wasn't 100% happy with it so I sanded down the surface:


Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·

and spray painted the frame using Eastwood Chassis Black. It looked 100X better!



I'm really happy with that, but then there is the issue with the overspray. So, I went to work on that. First, I cleaned everything down with soap and water. Once the debris and dirt were removed, I then used some Tub-O-Towels to remove some of the grease. This stuff works REALLY well and even removed some of the overspray from places like the various aluminum lines, plastic brake lines, the wire loom, and bottom of the master cylinder.



Honestly, with the way the car was shaping up, this would have driven me COMPLETELY NUTS! Since I was cleaning everything up, there was also the issue in the back of the engine compartment. There are some diagonal braces which are galvanized. As much as I tried to clean them, they had a dirty look to them. I figured, it wouldn't be hard to remove them (4nuts each). When I did take tjem off, there were some small spots of rust, which was under the galvinazation. I cleaned them off, coated it with a rust converter and top coated them. However, with all the stuff going on under the hood, I opted to paint them the body color. This way, it would have a more consistent look throughout the engine bay.


I even bought new bolts to help complete the look, but I had to paint them first. These honestly looked like ( -explicative- )!!!



Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
...AND since I'm cleaning...why not do another simple-ish mod???

Apparently, you can relocate the ECU inside the cabin. I was completely unaware you could do this and being a manual transcar, it is fairly simple. I began by removing the drivers seat. Then I went to work on getting some module out of the way to make way for the mass of wires coming through the fire wall. I didn't take many pictures of the process, but there are youtube videos to show you how to do this. Anyway...the ECU is t the right of the pic. There surely are a LOT of wires there.


In the back area of the wheel well, beyond the strut tower brace, there is a round horn. Just beyond that, there is a plastic thing...going into the fire wall. If you pnch the 6 little clips (or you can bend every oher one back and only have to deal with 3 like I did), the '"thing" pops right out of the fire wall. You need to start with the large plug first and you also need ot watch the plastic clips when you shimmy them through. The automatics have an accessory computer for the transmission, but the manuals have this dummy braket. One pressure clip holds it in place.




if you notice, there are only 2 zip ties holding the ECU in place. Once I reinstalled the kick panel...


I'll get to cleaning the car when I'm finished with it.

Now, that I have a little extra room under the hood, I stated sanding and cleaning the body bits. It took me a LOT of time to mask everything off (like 4 or 5 hours). Then I cleaned it again (making sure no debris settled onto the surfaces. Once it was ready, I rattle canned it.



I know I shot the color into the trans tunel a little further than stock, but this was intentional. I think it looks pretty nice and am REALLY happy with the results. All I needdd to do after was rainstall the motor...

...and the front suspension
...and the brakes, reinstall the LS9 blower, reconnect the fuel lines
...repaint some of the brackets,


Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The whole weekend of March 21st to Monday the 23rd, I was working diligently, making brackets for the power steering and planning on the routing of the lines. I also installed:
  • New Pedders Radius Rods with new Polyurethane Radius Rod bushings,
  • Lower Control arms (also has polyurethane bushings),
  • Whiteline adjustable camber coilover bushings,
  • Whiteline adjustable front sway bar
  • BC Racing coilovers,
*** The sway bar and coilover springs were powder coated Poly Satin Gold to match the Brembo Brakes

On March 24th, my buddy came over and we dropped the motor back in. Unfortunately, only 1 bracket fit properly. The rest had to be scrapped as they didn't work with the headers, motor and 1.25" sway bar installed.

Here are some pictures of the progress:

Custom Bracket. It looks odd, but trust works!



Installed the bracket. With the help of a few zip ties, it held the braided PTFE lines without any issues:


One (or 3) celebratory beverages later (NOTICE THE DIAGONAL BRACES?!?)...
...they blend in real nice now...


...and add a dash of magic....


Here, you can see the radius rod bushing, end of the radius rod and how the braided stainless PTFE lines come out. along the engine cradle. One of those lines will connect to the pump, while the other will go to a trans cooler, which I'll mount in front of the radiator.

Engine Auto part Motor vehicle Fuel line Vehicle


Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
...Then, it was off to the races?

...not really... I had to replace the old rubber brake lines with the braided stainless flexible lines. The rears went in SO EASY. The fronts? Well, that was something else. Apparently, someone installed PBR lines...which are pressed and pinched into the little bracket. So, before I could install them, I had to: clean, modify and paint the brackets.

...SERIOUSLY, who presses in the rubber lines? Bottom aspect of the bracket:


In order to get them out, I had to cut off the end, grind it down and use a hammer / punch to drive the line out. Below, you can see the end right before it popped out with one more tippy tap...



Problem after getting the lines out...the hole isn't round like the lines. The lines also have a notch! Something that should take 10 mintes, turned into a several hour project (just like EVERYTHING else with this car)! At this point though, I kind of expect it.


I used some small files and managed to get the new lines to fit pretty O.K.



It took a while, but these lines fit like a G.D. rubber glove! Not too bad work with a rat tail and some small files! After 2 days (rust converter coating and then paint), I had these babies installed!

Then it was onto the next problem...the 6-Piston BREMBO brake cailpers!!! Unfortunately, I mismeasured the inner hub clearance, so the rotors have to go back to the machine shop to remove .2th's of an inch in diameter. However, I was able to get some shots of the car with the brakes, suspension and CTS-V diamond rims:

DOH! When I reassembled the calipers, I put the bleeders and cross over tubes on the wrong end. Oh well, easy fix!


There, that's better!


....and NOW!!!




311 Posts
Great progress and very unique!

Very curious to see the completed supercharger set up (essentially a modified LS9 blower correct?).
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Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Very curious to see the completed supercharger set up (essentially a modified LS9 blower correct?).
It is an independantly driven LS9. Everything worked out under the hood, as far as clearances go-except for the air inlet. I did have to modify the S/C snout. Essentially, I used a hack saw and cut off the inlet. Because of the inlet geometry, it was facing upward on almost a 45* angle and lateral (towards the driver side). To compendsate for this when I cut off the inlet (looking into the opening as if it was a clock. The 1:30 position had the most meat left on it and the 7:30 position had the least. The inlet was flipped over about 180* and welded back on. This gave it a straighter shot into the blower and took away that funky upward angle.

Looking directly across from one side to the other, you can use the topof the fender as a gauge. That odd black thing on the left of the picture is a cut up DuSPEED CAI. The solid looking black line on the snout, but all the way to the right is a straight up/down plumb line. Red is the proposed cut line, dotted line is the aproximation line, which I didn't want to cut past.


Post hack saw cut with te inlet tapoed back on.


After having it welded back in place. You can see the DuSPEED intake towards the left of the screen. At this point, the center section of the DuSPEED CAI will fit inder the middle of the hood. The new location of the LS9 snout inlet is well below this point.


I then needed a belt tensioner for the independant drive. This is the bracket I came up with:


After some trial and error, I modified the original design:


This position of the tensioner would be at maximum tension for the accessory belt. It had to clear the 9.55 S/C ring on my UDP (Ultimate Performance Design) Harmonic Balancer. I'm probably going to get the 9.1" ring / 8.6" ring, as the 9.55 will REALLY push the LS9 to it's limits.



NOt pictured is the snout hub for the supercharger pulley which I had to have made. It was based on a Lingenfelter LS9 hub.
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Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Very cool. Whats the ls9 blower capable of power wise?
It should be around close to 900 at the rear wheels, but not over 950. The stock LS9 engine is almost 640 horse. With some upgrades and a tune, you should be able to get that number well over 700. Over the LS9, I have 50 cubic inches, a custom grind cam, long tube headers, high flow cat's, smoothed inner LS9 case, a more direct / straighter snout inlet, mild 823 head work, lifters, larger valves and an independant belt drive (which I had to have parts made).

At 6600 engine rpm, the stock blower rpm is aprox. 15,800 rpm
The maximum rpmof the blower is 23,800 rpm (aprox. 50% increase over stock rpm's)
I'm running an overdriven Crank Pulley (Ultimate Performance Design 9.55" ring) which places the blower about 19,500 rpms (or 23% over stock). UPD has a 9.10" ring, which puts the blower around 17% over stock (18,400 rpm). So, if I want to really get on it, I can put on a Lingenfelter 2.55 interchangable S/C pulley (stock size is 3.1"). This will take me to the 18.4K blower rpm to a max of around 21,500 blower RPM's (which is well under the max for the blower).

With JUST the S/C ring on a stock LS9, I should be well over the 700 hp range...
...add the other parts and a tune, I don't see why I couldn't be at the 900 rwhp range.

Any pictures of those cupholders out?
Only what I posted in this thread. I'm in the process of making another for a friend...but that one is being a real Bizz-NITCH! It doesn't seem to want to cooperate! I was going to see about making a couple more, but getting the parts from Australia hasn't been easy. Plus, I have a LOT on my plate at the moment!

Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Hello all of you in GTO Land!

I did some more schtoof to MuNG!i! After pulling the motor, paint and a bunch of other work tp the fuel rails and some cutting of the blower...YEP! I had to hack a chunk of aluminum off the sides of the case. I was trying to get everything done for the fuel system and went to reconnect the snout. I couldn't use the OEM coupler, because it's very similar to the LSA (with the crappy plastic and spring combo that tends to score the input shaft and the plasticwears down. I saw a NEW solid Lingenfenter coupler online and purchased it for $60 (shipped). When I recieved it, the thing was WAY too big. In fact, it was the same size as the LSA coupler I have. I called the company and they told me to speak to Lingenfelter... with everything locked down I contacted Lingenfelter who told me the LSA and LS9 couplers are pretty much the same. Color me a different shade of clueless, but I don't think so! Here's a comparison of the LS9 (left) and LSA (right):

I called a machine shop buddy of mine who made me a new solid one out of billet aluminum. It cost me $30 and about 15 minutes of SUPER LIGHT sanding to the inside of where the dowels go.

Top most Gray color = Custom made coupler
Top and slightly to the left = what I pulled out of the LS9
Bottom and slightly to the left Green coupler = ZZP LSA / LS9
Bottom = P.O.S. crap out of a stock LSA


...What I learned this day was, MY LS9 is different. I didn't know the extent until I went to bolt everything down...

Aww, heck, why wait to fill y'all in on my FUN!

So, you would think, the coupler is only a small part of this...right. SURE! Because my original lid (which came with the blower) had a hole drilled into it. I had the hole filled, but it still looked like DOOKIE! I mean, there was nothing on the lid that said "LS9 Supercharged". When you're out at a show and bragging, you want to say, I've got a big motor! THen BLAMMO! You pop the hood and the friggin' thing say's, "Race me! I Dare ya!" on the lid. He who know's would be like, "Oh Fooker! I'm not messin' with THAT !" Instead, I get this:


No cool looking logo's, no wolrding....just a Plain Jane lid with casting marks on it. Seriously, nothing strikes fear into the heart of the masses as much as a dirty old engine that looks like it was just cast. I did manage to find another lid and I was going to use it...but then I went to assemble the whole thing. To my amazement, I noticed a few things...such as:




SMH! So, not only is the coupler different, but the case and lid are different too! From what I can gather (in the few weeks that I've noticed this), this particular LS9 was either an early (like SUPER EARLY) version or it was a test mule. So, when I say, "Practically everything on this car is custom", I mean this WHOLE Mudda-FUXX is completely custom!


Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
I did wind up doing a few more mods to the blower and fuel rails. Upon researching, I found some various ideas on how to run your fuel pressure regulator. You can run it "In Line", before the fuel rail and moderate the fuel pressure before it enters the rails. The excess pressure is relieved before the fuel goes into the rails and the excess fuel diverts back to the tank BEFORE it even gets to the rails. Problem with this setup is, when you gas the car, you could get a drop in fuel pressure in the fuel rails. This could cause you to "run lean" temporarily and cause your motor to go "BOOM"! After putting $20K into a motor, I wouldn't advise this. Instead, there is the "Double Y", where you install the fuel pressure regulator after the fuel rails. This keeps a constant pressure in the fuel rails and the excess pressure is relieved AFTER the fuel enters the rails, keeping a more even and consistent pressure going to your injectors at all times. Here is a diagram of what I did for my car:


In order to do this, I had to (again) modify everything. Starting with the case (which I had already painted). Using a black magic marker, I drew a line where I needed to cut with a hack saw (both sides).


Here's the issue, in order to get the "Double Y" set up to work, I couldn't access the rear of the fuel rails easily because:|



I removed that little "wall". Using a Dremel atachment for milling aluminum, I worked the area to look sorta factory with the Dremel and sand paper. The fuel rails were fitted/welded witfh -6an fittings on both sides:


The the casing was repainted Pontiac Blue Metallic:


Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #58 ·
In case anyone is wondering, I am using Deatschwerks 90# fuel injectors. In order to come up with the best for my build, I used these online fuel injector calculators (figuring 80% duty cycle):

Deatschwerks Calculator

Fuel Injector Clinic

I came up with similar values on both sites, but figured I would round up on the injector poundage. I haven't had problems in the past, so I with Deatschwerks products. These are the pumps I purchased:
  • DW300c (in the tank) 340 L/H
  • DW350il (in line) to give a little extra bang 350 L/H.

I'm currently waiting for my CTS-V Diamons rims to be PVD coated (chrome) and for Summit to get me the two -6an 90* elbows I ordered last week, so I can button up this fuel system.

Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
It's been 5 months and I haven't gotten much done on the car. I appologize to those who were reading this thread. With the CoVID and such going on, having to take care of my father (who is pretty much an invalid) and running my own business, things have been VERY stressful! I'm not looking for sympathy, but letting you all know, I WANT to get this car completed, on the road and finished.

I did manage to get the wheels and tires on the car. The rear wheels are a smidge too bigfor the wheel wells. I may have to do a sorta 'wide body' to the fenders...but not 100% sure what I want to do.

Anyway, this is what I've done in the past few months. I did get thos fittings from Summit. It took a good month and a half, but I ot them!!!


I did start making some bracketry. I neglected to take pictures of the first bracket I made...but the first one I'm posting here is for the Fuel Pressure Regulator Gauge. Though it looks kind of small, it took me a good 4.5 hours to make it. Trying to get all the bends and angles correct, and to get it in the space I wanted wasn't easy. Plus,I pretty much had to have everything else back together, so I could get it just right. The only tools I used was a hack saw, drill press, sand paper, a Dremel and some small files. This is the finished product.

Room Table Furniture Floor

Here it is, just setting in it's place:




I did also make a oil catch can bracket. This took about 7.5 hours from start to finish., but this time, I did take pictures of my starting and ending products. Here is the flattened steel I began with:




After some cleaning and idea gathering, I came up with an idea. I wanted to up the difficulty on this, so I decided to make the bracket have some cutouts in the interior.



Chickun maka lousy houspet
697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I can only post up 10 pictures at a time....

ANYWAY, here are some more pictures of this bracket. Again, I made this pretty much by hand, using a hack saw, torch, mig welder, drill press,various files, a grinder and some hand tools.



You can see some small imperfections in my welds, but I'm a Chiropractor...not a welder. I did opt to paint this bracket Pontiac Blue Metallic, so it blends into the engine compartment a little better.



BY FAR, my favorite mod to this car HAS to be the wheels!!! I've seen some other who have (POOP) posted for what the CTS-V sedan wheels would look like on a GTO. I realize, for some of you, Chrome is not your thing. Personally, I can't stand the murdered out look. Still, if there EVER was an option to be had on these car's it should have been wheels like this! I absolutely LOVE the way they look on the car!!! Here are some of the beter picture I took of the wheels (and Brembo brakes) on the car!!!!


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Alloy wheel Wheel


In order to keep the clean look under the hood, I had to extensively modify the DuSPEED OTR air cleaner. Because they don't make one for a GTO with an LS9, I had to figure out the location of the inlet and remold it to flow and look the way the DuSPEED should under the hood of this car. I have about 8 hours in the: cutting, fiberglassing, sanding and refiberglassing of this part. I did extend the one side up, along the left (drivers) side fender to help cover the future home of the power steering resivoir (near the coolant bottle cap).

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hood Bumper

In the midst of all of this, I decided to buy another car. My current daily driver (pictured below in white) turned 185K miles. This summer, the G6's convertible top got stuck in the "down" position, developed an oil leak, needs and exhaust and the transmission began to slip. I wasted 10 days trying to get the top back up. After that debocle, knowing the mileage was getting up there, I figured it was time to get another car.

One thing I've always wanted was a Fusion Orange LSJ swapped G5 GT. I found this car and bought it for LESS than it would cost to fix the G6...and with 104K miles. There are some issues with this car, that I'm sorting out, but eventually, I will restore it and make a bad ass little brother for the GTO. I've seen some guy's pushing 450 hp out of these Delta platforms...and they are CHEAP!!! Plus, they have similar lines to the GTO, so it was kind of a no brainer, when I needed to get another car. So, I'll be modding this car, along with the GTO.

One thing I thought would be fun, would be to make this G5 look like a HSV Monaro. Using a cobalt SS rear bumper lip and a RK Sport 3 piece spoiler, it would look a LOT like the Holden. So, I might wind up putting on and rebadging it as a Holden. So, I would have a Holden, which was imported and badged as a Pontiac, and have a Pontiac that is rebadged as a Holden.


I did get new headlights for the car. I also picked up another upper grille (to make recessed grilles-like the SAP ones on the GTO and began making an HSV Monaro~esque spoiler for it (I hated the OEM POS on the car!).

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