Third time's a charm...right :facepalm:

I'm kinda proud of myself. My daily had a some CEL's going on. P-0420, P-0446 and another P-0420. I wasn't sure why there would be 2 of the same, but after some research, I needed to to install a O2 extender in the shorty header. After a quick drive all the CEL's cleared.




I then changed the oil and got busy on the GTO. I'm officially beyond where I was a month ago. Everything on the rearend is all buttoned up. The differential is all tightened down, as is the Harrop cover, Hendrix bracket and the D/S. Axles were done last weekend, and I'm almost finished with the fuel tnk brace and the fuel filter bracket (self "Hi-5") I have a little to go on the suspension, but I'll be starting the fuel system this weekend!

Depending on how the weather is on Friday, I may work on the modded DuSPEED. I also have to figure out what's going on with that "X"-pipe. It seems to be sitting low.

Fuel system stuff . . . (meh) . . . .

This is where I really don't know a whole lot. I have to research it better, but in this pic, I was trying to figure out where to put route the fuel lines, pump wiring and such. I wish the wires for these clips were about 1 inch longer..




There is an evap line of some sort, which went to the filler. Not sure why all of that was there, but I closed it off with a rubber cap. I'm not 100% sure if I need to run a line from there to the charcoal canister.




Fuel filter placement with the -8an outgoing line.






I had to make a modificatio to the tank brace (not pictured) for the fuel pump relays.

I was going to put the fuel tank in (again), but I started looking everything over with a fine tooth comb (it seems like EVERYTHING requires it now-a-days). I did see some paint / coating flaking around the fuel neck, but never really thought about it...until last weekend.

Upon further investigation, there was some rust popping up around this area and where the seam weld was. Again, initially, it didn't seem bad, but it was bad enough. I could either take care of it NOW and not woory, or I could wait and get a pinhole in the tank in a few years. "Ounce of prevention = a pound of cure"






I cleanedit up,using a mini wire wheel on MY NEW (refurbished) DREMEL and some Rustoleum Rust Dissolver Gel (which also dissolved some of the galvanization off the good parts of the tank. No biggie. There were a couple of small pin prick areas where there was some light surface rust. After shooting it and letting the dissolver do it's job, I wiped th rust off....






I had to buy some cold galvanization stuff (Zinc-it). Not sure how it will hold up, but it has to be better than the rust. It looks better and at least I don't have the rust issues. Since I was waiting for the dissolver to work, I also polished the clamps.






Polishing the hose clamps. I think I just wanted an excuse to use the refurbished Dremel's I just got back. . . . Yes, I said Dremel's. I have 2. Omne I use, another as a spare and then I have a crappy one I got second hand, in case I'm left with 2 that don't work.


BEFORE:




AFTER:




Top to bottom comparo:




Nobody is ever going to see these, but it only took a few minutes with my NEW DREMEL and small polishing wheel / compound!

☝ ☝ ☝
It only gives me 10 pictures / post.

After a bunch of mocking up (meaning, I put the empty tank in the car and removed it at least 50 times to get all the measurements spot on), I started getting the fuel lines sorted out. I opted to cut a hole in the top aspect of the plastic fuel tank cover, so the outgoing fuel line, can exit and hook up with the fuel filer (mounted in the trunk - as seen earlier). I figured, this would be easier to service it there , than anywhere else un the car. Everywhere else I looked, meant I had to mount the filter UNDER the car. No offense to those of you who have, but EFF that!

I'm not getting any younger and if I need to work on the car, this will be 10 times easier than lifting the car up and goi g under it. Plus, the only decent place under the car is right by the charcoal canister, You have to fish your hands past the axles, speed sensor lines and all sorts of other things.... Nah! the trunk is MUCH easier!



Now the hat doesn't sit straight, but this wasn't much of an issue to modify. I just turned the hat a few degrees. his also solved the problem of trying to figure out how to get all THREE of the fuel lines to fit inside of the plastic cover. There is only so much room on the top of the tank. Plus the braided stainless -6an PTFE return line will scratch the tank coating. I'm probbaly going touse some tape, to go around it and protect the tank coating.


I just re-coated it anyway. I'd hate to make it look all "nicey nice" and screw it up, while performing a mock up,
again.

Not that the vent line is going anywhere, but I want to make sure it all stays put. I wrapped the filler neck (metal) with some elecrtical tape. I then used a small "O" clamp to help hold it taht vent hose in place. The hose shouldn't move, but the clamp makes sure it wont. To keep it all safe from twisting and possible future wear, that tape should cushion and save the filler neck, in the event it twists. I was thiking of using corrugated tubing, but that could move and twist, causing some wear to the filer neck...which COULD lead to it rusting.




This vent tube, goes along side the filler neck and into inside of the plastic gas tank cover. I have a plastic "T" at the end and this will connect to the vent in the hat, as well as connect to the Charcoal Canister. I believe this should close the evap. system off and (hopefully) not throw any codes. . . ??? . . .

I think I'll be putting PTFE connectors under the car, in the area where these lines will exit the stock fuel line holes. This way, I can get all this sorted in the trunk seperate from under the car. Trying to get the tank installed with the lines in place is practically impossible. If I can get the lines and wiring all situated inside the trunk with the tank all closed up and THEN install it, it will make life 100X easier. I didn't want 100 connectors all over the place, but in order to get this closed off and working, the return line will have a disconnect under the car, or only 1 junction.

The outgoing line will already go through the filter, meaning I will have at least 2 couplers for that hook-up (not including the one way valves). Adding one more shouldn't be a big deal.

My order from summitracinng.com came in last week. I needed a couple 90 degree -6 and -8 AN fittings w/ adapters to jointg them together. I needed to see if they were aproximately the same height (which they were). The larger -8AN (in black - using Vibrant Performance) is for the outgoing fuel line and the return is a smaller -6AN (in stainless - using Summit Racing Products). When buying PTFE lines, you need to make sure the fittings are compatable with the lines. Otherwise they may NOT work or fit properly! Different manufactirers use different spec's for their lines and fittings...so it is essential to make sure, what you're buying works.






Because of Mother's Day, I wasn't able to spend all weekend on the car. Plus, the day I was working on the GTO was perfect for doing fiberglass work. It was around 60 degrees outside w/ a slight wind to my back. All that fiberglass dust went down wind!!! My DuSPEED needed a bunch of sanding and a reglassing, after blowing through in a few spots where it was warped.

I realized I need to buy a file sander to get inside the air cleaner part a little bit. OH NO!!! I need to buy ANOTHER TOOL!

However, I didn't take any pictures of the modded DuSPEED. Instead, I have a few pictures of the fuel tank.







My dilemma here was, I couldn't get the lines to stay in place, while placing the tank into the bottom cover -AND- secure the fuel lines to the fuel pump. I tried in vein to get this accomplished, but it fought me tooth and nail. My bright idea was to zip tie the lines down along side that bump (holds the tank above the exiting fuel line. I managed to get it somewhat together. Then I pulled the zip tie together more and foundd the fittings were twisted/ not exiting the hole straight.

This got worse every time I went to put the fittings onto the pump. I removed the tank fromthe cover and then the PTFE lines shifted over that hump. Now, I had two holes in the cover -AND- the lines were not staying put. My next bright idea was to run a zip tie through the small hole I made, wrap it around the line and exit through the same hole. That held them down securely, this didn't shift much at all and I was able to take the tank out several times. The lines no longer shitfed at ALL.

Plus, if I need to remove the fuel tank for whatever reason, I can disconnect them from underneath and take the fuel tank out in one unit (sort of like how you would if nothing had been modified). Except now, I'm able to detanch the lines with a couple wrenches and not a push together fitting, where you have to wrestle with it for a few hours.

On the second attempt at getting the tank back into place, the fuel lines all lined up pretty good. This is how it looked under the car on that attempt at trying to get the lines to go together:








The rubber hose coming out of the fuel line exit is for the evap system. I still have to figure that part out, but the hard part is over. I think I'm going to make something to hold these fittings in place, so they don't rub on anything or wear the fittings on one side or another. I have some gasoline rated rubber hoses I might spiral cut and put over these where they exit through the bottom of the tank cover to help prevent wear from vibration and rubbing.





Lastly (at least for this update), I actually sat down the the car and was sitting there lookng out the windsheild. I was admiing some of my work, when I realized I no longer cared for the placement of my boost gauge. I lve the way it looked from outside of the car, but in the drivers seat, it was not 100% right.

Then after talking to a tuner, he said he would prefer to have a wideband installed on the A-pillar or on the dash cluster surround. I wasn't too crazy about repainting the cluster or much else in the interior AGAIN. As I sat there, I' decided to cut the gauge pod off. This was before I removed the A-Pillar pod (again).




I'm going t look into seeing where I can mount the wideband. You may see a few pictures of me using PVC rings and tape, and figuring out where I'm going to place the gauges. I'm going to have to order the Mavman LC2 wideband (to the tune of only $369) within the next month, so I can have it ready for when I attempt at getting the A-Pillar pods completed.

I think this will also balance out the gauges a little better from side to side. It's probably going to look like a fighter jet when I get it done. I'm also goig to hear about it from my buddies. They already think I have too many gauges as it is. Whatever!!! I'm sure Mavman wont have ANYTHING bad to say about me!

Thanks for reading and I'll be posting up more soon!

Quick update...

I started a new pod for the wideband. At first I was trying to figure out where to put it. I deiced to move the A-Pillar pod down the length of the A-Pillar (forward) about and inch and a half. Then, I decided to mount the new pod, onto the original pod (which I had already moved once before.





I like to use that green foam stuff to help shape the fiberglass, as it's cheap and easy to form with pretty much anything, including your hand.




I know this looks like a mess, but it will start to take shape and look a little better when I sand it and get it all one color.




This is the first real glassing of the entire pod, over the foam





After te first sanding, I checked out how this is going to look.




This is a mock up of how the gauges will look after I get the new pod completed and install the wideband.




On my daily, I'm finishing the interior trim bits. I tried CF, which looked REALLY BAD. I decided to modift it slightly and repaint it. In case you aren't familiar with the Cobalt / G5, these are pretty basic looking pieces. They have a checkered / CF type of look to them...agian, not good looking at ALL. I decided to add some curves to the parts and what looks like a bit of an extension to the bottom and top aspects of the piece. The center and the piece that goes along the left side of the center are almost done. I still have to clear them. The longer part (painted with the orange on the end) will have the orange (which is recessed into the part) filled in with clear resin.

When that is hardened, I'm going to sand it and add a vinyl Cobalt Silthouette over the resin. Then I'll repaint he part - same as the rest. Eventially, I'll remove the vinyl tape and clear the heck out of that area. Once the clear has filled in the silthouette to my liking, I'll sand it down and make it smooth again.

I figure this might look kind of cool and give the piece some dinemsion.











Eventually, I'm going to modify the fog light switch with a "Fire Missles" button....but that's for another time.