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GR-RRR!
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One thing I find odd is that the inserts that hold the skid plate on and the subframe sections where the skid plate would have been look fine with no damage. Did this car even have a skid plate on it?

As mentioned already, an insurance claim might make the most sense.
 

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If I didn't want to work with insurance co..

Use tools, not a curb, to take whats left of the pan off. Remove all the pan pieces in the way of the crank and connecting rods. Clean thoroughly.
Turn over engine by hand. Still make noises? Any resistance during 2 revolutions?

If yes then contact a competent engine builder and get a quote to fix or do a lot of reading and consider if you want to do it yourself.

If no noises and turns over smooth, then...
Replace pan. Fill with oil. Turn engine over by hand (from crank bolt). Any resistance and/or noises? If no then...

Hope, pray, cross fingers.

Good luck!
 

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Pontiac Fanboy
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The oil pan on LS engines is basically a stress member for the block. Fracturing the oil pan like that after the skid plate was there to protect it probably sent aluminum chunks into the bottom end of the rotating assembly. Mix that with driving the car with no oil, dude that motor is fucked.
Temperature won't save bearings, oil film is NECESSARY to avoid metal on metal contact that will destroy things almost instantly if they touch.

I would be shocked to hear there isn't also significant front subframe damage at the mounting points (engine, body, suspension, etc.)

Sorry to say it, but I agree with others, that's totaled.
File a claim, get your money, and fight for a good check given how much used cars are worth right now.



If you're going to fix it, please document the immense pain your wallet is about to feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I don't think the restart was your biggest problem, the trip to the parking lot was where it was damaged. Hot or cold isn't the issue, the lack of oil is. Without oil it doesn't take long to destroy bearings, rings, cams, lifters and cylinder walls. But the restart kind of shows it was damaged, you said:



I'm not trying to be a Debbie Downer here, but please be prepared to learn that serious internal engine damage was done.
Bare in mind the rest of the oil was still cycling though the engine as I turned off. I have already hit the median and I immediately pulled into the parking from the median I hit and once I parked it and turned it off was when the rest of the oil came out. From there it was towed. But like I said we won’t know for sure until it gets taken to the shop 🙂. In any case if the engine needs to be changed then the engine will be changed no problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The oil pan on LS engines is basically a stress member for the block. Fracturing the oil pan like that after the skid plate was there to protect it probably sent aluminum chunks into the bottom end of the rotating assembly. Mix that with driving the car with no oil, dude that motor is fucked.
Temperature won't save bearings, oil film is NECESSARY to avoid metal on metal contact that will destroy things almost instantly if they touch.

I would be shocked to hear there isn't also significant front subframe damage at the mounting points (engine, body, suspension, etc.)

Sorry to say it, but I agree with others, that's totaled.
File a claim, get your money, and fight for a good check given how much used cars are worth right now.



If you're going to fix it, please document the immense pain your wallet is about to feel.
I make a decent amount of money. Whatever it takes is whatever it takes no problem really
 

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GR-RRR!
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Let's do a little math. Lets say it took you two minutes from the crash to the shut down at the parking lot. Let's say you averaged 1500 RPMs for those two minutes. That means each and every piston went up and down in their cylinder 3000 times. The crank turned in its bearings 3000 times. The camshaft turned in its bearings 1500 times and each lifter opened each valve 1500 times. All without a pressurized oil supply. The minute you tore the oil pan open the engine lost all oil and oil pressure (well, within a few seconds at least). Whatever oil leaked out when you stopped was just oil that had splashed all over and was draining out of the block and heads (thus oil that had not been picked up by the oil pump and run through the engine). Oil didn't dribble out of that pan, it gushed, like a catastrophic dam break.

I hope the mechanic you are going to use does a thorough diagnostic and inspection and analysis and doesn't just throw a pan on there and send you on your way.

Please do report back with what they find and I wish you the best.
 

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The metal pieces of the pan may have smacked the crank and rods too?
My buddy Chris had this happen to his corvette. Was ran off the road by a semi that didn't see him. Hit a rock and pieces of the pan did go up and strike the crank . He ended up with a 408 fed with a big ole bottle of giggle juice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Look guys don’t take the wrong idea. I’m genuinely listening to everything y’all are saying and taking note of it. I am an optimist though. Even in the dark I’ll find a way. I seriously appreciate y’all’s time in answering this forum it helps a lot in giving an understanding of what I may face and be ready for the challenge ahead. And I will definitely post everything to this forum and not ghost like others do on some forums
 

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Let's do a little math. Lets say it took you two minutes from the crash to the shut down at the parking lot. Let's say you averaged 1500 RPMs for those two minutes. That means each and every piston went up and down in their cylinder 3000 times. The crank turned in its bearings 3000 times. The camshaft turned in its bearings 1500 times and each lifter opened each valve 1500 times. All without a pressurized oil supply. The minute you tore the oil pan open the engine lost all oil and oil pressure (well, within a few seconds at least). Whatever oil leaked out when you stopped was just oil that had splashed all over and was draining out of the block and heads (thus oil that had not been picked up by the oil pump and run through the engine). Oil didn't dribble out of that pan, it gushed, like a catastrophic dam break.

I hope the mechanic you are going to use does a thorough diagnostic and inspection and analysis and doesn't just throw a pan on there and send you on your way.

Please do report back with what they find and I wish you the best.
Hopefully the pan replacement includes checking the bearings but I doubt it for that price. Especially when you consider the labor time.
 

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Pontiac Fanboy
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Good luck man, sucks that it happened but thankfully it was just the car that was damaged and not you or someone else.
If you can raise this GTO from the ashes, you'll be required to paint a fire chicken on the hood and get a license plate that says PHOENIX.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Hopefully the pan replacement includes checking the bearings but I doubt it for that price. Especially when you consider the labor time.
He is, this guy Im being sent to has done over 10k work for the mechanic at my job and he tells me this guy does only quality work and if he ever sees something he always lets the owner know. And he ONLY does LS work and nothing else.
 
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