LS1GTO Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Following up on an earlier post...

Searching Tire Rack for 245/40 x 18" tires, there are 49 choices. They seem to fall into 3 general price ranges: 1) Above $225, 2) $200 (give or take) and 3) $130 (give or take).

I've ruled out #1. One of the differences between #2 and #3 is the speed rating. My GTO is my daily driver, I don't have autocross plans and I generally don't drive more than 75-80 mph. All this said, and for "normal" driving, what's the big deal with the $200 tires? I don't want to buy junk, but I don't want to spend the big bucks just for "bragging rights." It's not that I can't afford the more expensive tires, but if all the extra $80.00 per tire gets me is a 130 MPH speed rating, why spend it if I don't drive it?

Whatchathink?
 

·
Knight Errant
Joined
·
1,800 Posts
Tires

tdimasi said:
Following up on an earlier post...

Searching Tire Rack for 245/40 x 18" tires, there are 49 choices. They seem to fall into 3 general price ranges: 1) Above $225, 2) $200 (give or take) and 3) $130 (give or take).

I've ruled out #1. One of the differences between #2 and #3 is the speed rating. My GTO is my daily driver, I don't have autocross plans and I generally don't drive more than 75-80 mph. All this said, and for "normal" driving, what's the big deal with the $200 tires? I don't want to buy junk, but I don't want to spend the big bucks just for "bragging rights." It's not that I can't afford the more expensive tires, but if all the extra $80.00 per tire gets me is a 130 MPH speed rating, why spend it if I don't drive it?

Whatchathink?
I think they came with 160 MPH+ rated tires that were also built to handle and were matched to the car and braking system. Keep them all at that same speed rating and the same ability to corner and handle or you're likely to spend some time one day watching the world blur by across the windshield...or slide trying to stop until the loud BANG. Standard tires are good for about 85 MPH. That's where the speedometers ended not too long ago, and they went on cars suited to them. I would no more put 'H' rated tires on a 'W' rated car, than I would vice-versa. One way is not a good idea and is false or ineffective economy, the other is overspending, okay if you have it and are going to ask the car to do things it wasn't built for, but more like thinking 'rice-a-roni'... Ever see a Vette with tire shop 'specials' on it? Having to walk the walk goes with wanting to talk the talk...Folks who want to drive a grocery getter and have no need of the power and expense of keeping up a muscle car usually don't buy a muscle car....JMHO ;)
 
Joined
·
293 Posts
tdimasi said:
Following up on an earlier post...

Searching Tire Rack for 245/40 x 18" tires, there are 49 choices. They seem to fall into 3 general price ranges: 1) Above $225, 2) $200 (give or take) and 3) $130 (give or take).

I've ruled out #1. One of the differences between #2 and #3 is the speed rating. My GTO is my daily driver, I don't have autocross plans and I generally don't drive more than 75-80 mph. All this said, and for "normal" driving, what's the big deal with the $200 tires? I don't want to buy junk, but I don't want to spend the big bucks just for "bragging rights." It's not that I can't afford the more expensive tires, but if all the extra $80.00 per tire gets me is a 130 MPH speed rating, why spend it if I don't drive it?

Whatchathink?

remember that those are maximum speed ratings. so if your tires are rated to 140 mph max, then your daily cruise at 85mph puts next to no strain on your tires, they handle that cruising speed with ease. however, if you buy tires only rated up to about 100 mph, then you're working your tires pretty damn close to the max for extended periods of time nearly everyday. this could greatly increase the chance of a blowout with dangerous results. that being said, i agree buying super expensive tires might not be worth it (although they very well may be stickier under hard cornering or acceleration conditions, and that IS worth the extra money) but definitely don't buy anything rated below what stock is for the car. remember your tires are the only part of the car that actually makes contact with the road, and so in a lot of people's minds they are the absolute most important part of the car, and the one place (if any) where buying the best available can definitely be justified.
 

·
GTOholic
Joined
·
1,504 Posts
Yes, I must concur with OG and mixedxboy. Tires are the one place you want to "splurge." Get the best you can afford and avoid buying underrated tires.

Heads up on the wear rating. I just discovered the wear rating on my Toyo tires is a 280... which isn't BAD, but isn't great either. I'll have to stop leaving those twenty foot rubber patches in my driveway if I want the tires to last a year. :D

P.S. The wear rating on my drag radials is 100. Glad I'm not commuting on THOSE.
 

·
Enjoy the trolls
Joined
·
2,548 Posts
What if you find yourself one day being chased by Al-Qaeda operatives riding in Mach 1 Mustangs and BMW M3's? You try to out run them but realize you can go up to only 130 mph? Then you ask yourself: Do I want to die from a hail of AK-47 bullets or die from a tire blowout because you did not buy W rated tires? Then the extra 80 bucks doesn't seem that much does it?

You never know.......get the W rated tires just in case.


(OK time for my medication now....)
 

·
Knight Errant
Joined
·
1,800 Posts
Pass the jug

desertgoat said:
What if you find yourself one day being chased by Al-Qaeda operatives riding in Mach 1 Mustangs and BMW M3's? You try to out run them but realize you can go up to only 130 mph? Then you ask yourself: Do I want to die from a hail of AK-47 bullets or die from a tire blowout because you did not buy W rated tires? Then the extra 80 bucks doesn't seem that much does it?

You never know.......get the W rated tires just in case.


(OK time for my medication now....)
Don't bogart the happy juice... :D :drink: :drink: :drink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Take a hard look at Bridgestone Potenza RE750's. I've got them myself in P245/40R18's. They're 'W' speed rated and quite reasonable for what you get, and are one of the highest rated tires on the net. Anyone who still has the BFG's on their car will tell you that when you hammer down, they pretty much melt like snow. With the RE750's they give a squawk and then you're gone. Wet traction is very good also from the little bit of rain that I've driven in so far. The Tire Rack consumer rankings have the RE750 ranked third with I think a Pirelli second. Firestone Firehawk SZ50's are rated number one and ARE freakin unreal tires but along with the Pirelli are more expensive, and the treadwear rating (the true measure of a tire's longevity) for the RE750 is quite good (340) for a W-rated tire that can actually hook up. Also take your Tire Rack price to a corporate Firestone store or similar place and they'll match it, that way someone will honor warranty and you can get road hazard if you want, and you don't have to pay extra for dismounting & remounting in addition to balancing so you'll come out ahead on price, and they actually give you 30 days to see if you like them. Can't beat it. There, your homework's done!!
 

·
Mister Muscular
Joined
·
131 Posts
desertgoat said:
What if you find yourself one day being chased by Al-Qaeda operatives riding in Mach 1 Mustangs and BMW M3's? You try to out run them but realize you can go up to only 130 mph? Then you ask yourself: Do I want to die from a hail of AK-47 bullets or die from a tire blowout because you did not buy W rated tires? Then the extra 80 bucks doesn't seem that much does it?

You never know.......get the W rated tires just in case.
Wow, this was an instant classic, thanks desertgoat, I'm still laughing. :)

Nitto makes some seriously good performance tires in a Z rating that are still inexpensive (in the mid $100 range). I've used the 555 ZRs on every performance car I've ever owned except the Goat. But as another thread on here says, I think they come in a size that will fit the new GTO. Haven't really investigated yet.

http://www.nittotire.com
 

·
Feynman fan
Joined
·
2,336 Posts
desertgoat said:
What if you find yourself one day being chased by Al-Qaeda operatives riding in Mach 1 Mustangs and BMW M3's? You try to out run them but realize you can go up to only 130 mph? Then you ask yourself: Do I want to die from a hail of AK-47 bullets or die from a tire blowout because you did not buy W rated tires? Then the extra 80 bucks doesn't seem that much does it?

You never know.......get the W rated tires just in case.


(OK time for my medication now....)
Correction: get the bulletproof W rated tires. And add caltrop launchers, just for good measure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Tire Spec - Spread Sheet

I spent some time to assemble tire data (240/40 x 18 size only) in an Excel file. The data itself comes from the Tire Rack web-site. There were some inconsistancies and I excluded any "competition" tires. I am going to try to attach it to this message. Hope it works. If anyone wants the actual Excel file to play with the data, send me a PM. The tire wear data (UTQG) is interesting in terms of mileage per dollar cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
hi guys, just some advice when buying tyres, make sure the load rating on the tyres will comply with your car. the goat is a heavy car and some where on the car it will have a plaque stating the load index for the tyres, on the tyres it is e.g 245-40-18 then it will have a number then the speed rating, e.g 92w the number is the load rating and the letter is the speed rating, when buying aftermarket tyres it is most important that the load rating is the same or greater than what is stamped on the car irrespective of the speed rating. rule of thumb is if the aftermarket tyre is a higher price than brand x you generally find that brand x's load index is lower. of the top of my head i dont know what the goats load index is, but now you know that when buying aftermarket tyres it is most important that you buy the right load index with the right speed rating, because weight is a factor in tyre life and the tyres you have on must be able to sustain all the driving conditions and wrong load index rated tyres could fail and we all dont want that.
 

·
May I quote you on that?
Joined
·
22,046 Posts
aussie bill said:
hi guys, just some advice when buying tyres, make sure the load rating on the tyres will comply with your car. the goat is a heavy car and some where on the car it will have a plaque stating the load index for the tyres, on the tyres it is e.g 245-40-18 then it will have a number then the speed rating, e.g 92w the number is the load rating and the letter is the speed rating, when buying aftermarket tyres it is most important that the load rating is the same or greater than what is stamped on the car irrespective of the speed rating. rule of thumb is if the aftermarket tyre is a higher price than brand x you generally find that brand x's load index is lower. of the top of my head i dont know what the goats load index is, but now you know that when buying aftermarket tyres it is most important that you buy the right load index with the right speed rating, because weight is a factor in tyre life and the tyres you have on must be able to sustain all the driving conditions and wrong load index rated tyres could fail and we all dont want that.
What tyres have been well regarded in Oz? Conditions are probably pretty rough down under, with the heat and all, not to mention a good bit more history with this car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
mistermike said:
What tyres have been well regarded in Oz? Conditions are probably pretty rough down under, with the heat and all, not to mention a good bit more history with this car.
to be honest most australian conditions arn't the same as u.s conditions we have heat and not snow unless you live in the mountains pirelli are great performers but are expensive i personally wont use any thing but yokohama, the stock hsv's use either pirelli or bridgestone but my advice is stick to well known brands you cant go wrong. rule of thumb the higher performance of the tyre the less it will last
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
desertgoat said:
What if you find yourself one day being chased by Al-Qaeda operatives riding in Mach 1 Mustangs and BMW M3's? You try to out run them but realize you can go up to only 130 mph? Then you ask yourself: Do I want to die from a hail of AK-47 bullets or die from a tire blowout because you did not buy W rated tires? Then the extra 80 bucks doesn't seem that much does it?

You never know.......get the W rated tires just in case.


(OK time for my medication now....)
Haha, that reminds me of the time I was driving my mom's maxima on the highway (96 SE 5-speed). This junker DSM comes up and I put it in 4th and floor it. At the top of 4th I am going 120 and realize the snow tires are T-rated, 118mph. So I put it in 5th and cruise at 120 and look over at the guy. I gave the universal signal for "my tires are T-rated, can't go any faster" but he didn't get it :p

And on the RE-750s. I've got a set of these on my Caprice, on Impala SS wheels. Excellent tire - dry traction, wet traction AND tread life. This tire will take 35k+ miles of hard driving in a heavy B-Body. That says something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Check out the Khumo ECSTA 712.... I had them on my Audi TT and loved them. Can't beat the value for $93ea. I'll get them again when I find some 18" that I like for the Goat.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top