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So I'm done with taking my car into the shop just to get it back not knowing if they did the job right or if the actually put in new parts or not and I've come to the conclusion that if you want something done right do it your self !

so I have the worst tool collection and am going to need to get new tools and would like a complete list of every tool I am going to need to get the job done right if someone can help with that I'd appreciate it
 

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Trans jack, one that you can adjust the angle on.

Blind hole puller set. Horrible frieght carries it. Works well the pilot bearing.

Torque wrench.

A good mechanics tool set.

Plenty of extensions.
 

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Read through this guide, I haven't perused it in a while but I'm pretty sure it will give you an idea of what you need
 

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Decent extension set, wobble socket extension but I just use a crappy swivel. Aside from that I have nothing special but the trans jack. Drop the trans once or twice a year.
 

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Transmission jack. Transmission jack. Transmission jack.

This one worked beautifully for me: 800 lbs. Low Lift Transmission Jack

It is VERY important you VERY securely chain the trans to the jack. The Tremec has a rounded bottom so strapping it down securely is key to keep it from moving on the jack. Also, the Tremec transmission is a heavy MF so you do not want it shifting or falling off the jack. Pro tip: get a tailshaft sealing tool. It is a big hunk of plastic you jam into the tailshaft end once you remove the driveshaft. Otherwise you will end up with multiple quarts of transmission fluid all over the floor and yourself.
 

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Pulling the pilot bearing is the hardest part. HF bearing puller hammer might not gonna cut it - you need a bigger slide weight or get a puller that utilizes tightening bolts/nuts using washers.
Trans is easy to maneuver if you do it without bellhousing and trans fluid, and you have a helper
 

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Transmission jack. Transmission jack. Transmission jack.

This one worked beautifully for me: 800 lbs. Low Lift Transmission Jack

It is VERY important you VERY securely chain the trans to the jack. The Tremec has a rounded bottom so strapping it down securely is key to keep it from moving on the jack. Also, the Tremec transmission is a heavy MF so you do not want it shifting or falling off the jack. Pro tip: get a tailshaft sealing tool. It is a big hunk of plastic you jam into the tailshaft end once you remove the driveshaft. Otherwise you will end up with multiple quarts of transmission fluid all over the floor and yourself.
Or you could just drain and refill the trans, lol.
 

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Pulling the pilot bearing is the hardest part. HF bearing puller hammer might not gonna cut it - you need a bigger slide weight or get a puller that utilizes tightening bolts/nuts using washers.
Trans is easy to maneuver if you do it without bellhousing and trans fluid, and you have a helper
Blind hole puller, not bearing puller. Every other pilot bearing puller i have ever used was an utter failure, especially the ones that are used with a slide hammer. The blind hole puller set comes with a nice size slide hammer and has worked like a hot knife through butter every time i've used it.

I agree with removing the trans without the bellhousing. Same with installing it.
 

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Torque wrench... and not harbor freight garbage
 

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I second the trans jack, though years ago in my younger days (I sound old when I type that), I dropped a T5 from my 280zx myself by looping a rope around the tailhousing and tying it to a board inside the car through the shifter hole to support the back while I dropped the crossmember. I then used blocks of wood to support the bellhousing while I slid it off the engine to clear the clutch. I then lowered the back off the rope and benchpressed the front to lay it on the ground. I got smarter over the years and used a trans jack for my 3000GT when I pulled the trans on that. I got even more fortunate to now have a friend with a full car lift and high lift jack stands when we did the GTO clutch a few years back.

With that said, I also used the Harbor Freight slide hammer to remove what was left of the pilot bearing. It will take a lot of whacks, but eventually it did pull it out. I also remember using a couple long 1/2" extensions put together to reach up the tunnel for the top bellhousing bolts. Others have unbolted the trans from the bellhousing, but several extensions (I think one was a wobble extension) did the trick. When you remove the driveshaft, you will have 12 point star bolts holding it to the pinon yoke. 18mm 12 point is what I recall using for that. Definately a torque wrench for the flywheel & clutch bolts and other critical torque bolts. I would also get some thread lock for the flywheel bolts. Some PB Blaster or other rust penetrating spray for stubborn bolts. I have headers, so I did not have to undo the exhaust. Not sure about the stock exhaust though. Since you will be disconnecting the slave cylinder, you may want to look into the optional remote bleeder. Perfect time to add that. Get brake cleaner to clean all the dust out of the bellhousing and input shaft. It will be messy in there. If you have a leak at the tailhousing where the driveshaft goes in, now is the time to replace the seal. As others have mentioned, don't tip the trans backward if you choose not to drain the fluid and try to plug the hole with something. Any clutch kit I've ever bought recently has always come with a plastic alignment tool.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head.
 

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I want to know where would your purchase a tailshaft sealing tool? Is that a mechanic-exclusive tool?
No, a simple everyday thing.

 
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