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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

So my trunk quit opening electronically, it would make the noise when i pressed the button but wouldn't open. I never use the trunk but I've been flying a lot for work lately and I use it for my suitcase. I had been using the emergency release. But went to throw my suitcase in and it no longer opens the trunk either. THANK GOD this didn't happen at the airport (glass half full).


Anyway. What the hell am I going to do?
 

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4X4 Beast VV :D
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Keep trying to open it as you push the button. When you are able to get it open remove the retarded rubber cap which goes over the latch. That thing slid off and gave me problems similar to the ones you are having. Just keep pushing the unlock trunk button and use some force to try to push (or pull up) on the trunk.
 

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Same thing has been happening to me for as long as I can remember. Makes the noise, but won't open.
 

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Machine04
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Maybe this diagram will help. On post #8, there is a diagram. Inside of #6, there is a little spring that has to be connected to the white plastic arm for the trunk lever to pop back and open.

I had to do this 2 weeks ago. Unbolted #6, pryed up the two metal tabs holding it closed (being sure not to break the rivot at the bottom), and taking tweasers to connect the spring back to the plastic arm.

Hope this helps.

Also, have you tried the lever behind the rear seat? Im sure you have, just had to ask.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=400430&highlight=trunk+wont+open
 

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Pretty sure that is the emergency release the OP is talking about
 

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Rotorhead
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I had the same problem recently. Push down on the trunk and then pull up firmly as you press the trunk release button. This should release it.

This problem plagued me for a while. I tried removing the rubber shield. I tried adjusting the catch in the bottom of the trunk (check that this is on tight by the way...the bolt can loosen up and allow rotational play). I tried adjusting the latch. I tried to call upon the spirits to magically release my trunk.

You know what did work? WD-40. Simple as that. I sprayed some into the latch mechanism and I haven't had a problem since...and it's been almost a year.
 

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4X4 Beast VV :D
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The WD40 will dry out being that it is about the same viscosity as water or is made with water (Can't remember which, lol). Anyway, here is my substitution for WD40 which I personally like best for all latches hinges and similar moving parts, White Lithium Grease. Go buy a can it should be pretty cheap, spray liberally, being careful not to overspray like hell of course and that's it. The stuff lasts forever and is a great longer lasting alternative to WD40.
 

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My friends GTO did that and we had to drill a hole behind the plate in order to directly manipulate the latch. We then fixed the lock mechanism, put a plastic plug in the hole, and it's been fine for over 2 years. Last resort, though, if all else fails.
 

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The WD40 will dry out being that it is about the same viscosity as water or is made with water (Can't remember which, lol). Anyway, here is my substitution for WD40 which I personally like best for all latches hinges and similar moving parts, White Lithium Grease. Go buy a can it should be pretty cheap, spray liberally, being careful not to overspray like hell of course and that's it. The stuff lasts forever and is a great longer lasting alternative to WD40.
water displacement formula #40 so no water.
 

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4X4 Beast VV :D
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My friends GTO did that and we had to drill a hole behind the plate in order to directly manipulate the latch. We then fixed the lock mechanism, put a plastic plug in the hole, and it's been fine for over 2 years. Last resort, though, if all else fails.
How big was the hole you drilled? This is a great idea actually. A hidden mod which can be accessed again if ever needed.

water displacement formula #40 so no water.
Ahh, thank you for the correction. Nevertheless it still is thin as hell and dries out very fast, so I do recommend that thick white lithium grease spray.
 

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Part #8 will break at the elbow on either end due to repeated use. I was able to fabricate one from a clothes hanger of equal guage using some wire snips and pliers. Still working fine 2 years later.


 

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I should point out that there are two wires connected to the release latch: 1 is for the electronic release mechanism, the other is for the emergency release.

So, if you get it open and see that there is a wire hooked up to the release, you may find yourself thinking that my previous post is off base (I'm full of chit). Take a second look though, there should be two cables running to the latch, both of which are connected by wires: #8 AND the tail end of #9 in the diagram. #9 is the emergency pull from behind the rear seatback. The diagram does not show the cable running from the electronic actuator.
 

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I had the same issue. I drilled a one inch hole with a hole saw behind the license plate. I used the parts diagrams to figure the best place to drill. I used a screw driver to trip the lock through the hole. To fill the hole I purchased a plastic plug from sears hardware I found in their nut and bolt section.
 
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