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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all – First real post here on this site. I purchased my 05 MBM M6 in 2016 and finally getting to making some changes. I am in process of installing a TVS 2300 on my stock LS2 with Kooks long tubes, flex fuel kit and a variety of other parts. This is my daily driver in the summer.
The Maggie has been sitting in my garage for over a year, and with the virus slowdown lately I am getting a chance to finally start putting things together.
I have done a fair amount of lurking this site to learn from other’s experiences – there is an amazing amount of info here. I’ll have a few question for y’all, and I maybe a few new ideas, although it seems like most topics have been covered lots of times over.
Photo Below – Pulling the harness apart to re-route some of the connection inside the bundles instead of running extra jumper wires around.
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Discussion Starter #2
I have been working through some challenges with the long tubes this week. I’ll post a bit more once I get some feedback from the vendor. As part of this I did get to learn about front cradle alignment. I welded in the extra port for the wideband. Weld not pretty.
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I also made some progress on the fuel system.

Fuel Pump – I installed a DW320C fuel pump. It is E85 compatible and it dropped right in. It took me a couple hours. I took my time trying not to break any the plastic snap parts and just paying extra attention to the fuel system since I really don’t want fuel escaping anywhere.

Injectors: FIC1000’s I have these installed on the plenum of the 2300, but the fuel rails are currently not installed. These were an upgrade from what comes in the kit, and I found out the hard way these are the “Short” LS3 injectors and not LS2 height injectors.

Voltage Booster: My kit came with a “NewVolt” unit. I searched online and found almost no references to it. It was made by a company called Mercury Magnetics. It’s a fairly heavy box and the wires are all 10 gauge. If anyone has any knowledge or issues about this thing, let me know. One the vehicle, it looks like I will need to connect these big wires up the the little purple wire that runs back to the pump - it's sort of a mismatch in wire size. I ordered a few extra fuses to have along just in case something gives out.

Here are a couple of photos of the unit. The Magnuson instructions specify to attach it to the plastic fuse box, but I didn’t like that idea, so I made a bracket to attach it to the RH fender instead. I'll post more photos of that later.

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There was close to zero information along with this, except that it had passed some sort of testing. I hooked it up to a power supply to get a better idea of what is actually going on inside. Air pressure supplied by a small inflator with gauge. The voltage out kicks up immediately to 17.4 volts when the boost is a 3.5 psi or higher. I didn't have the pump or any significant load on the circuit.
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Oh yeah, I also ordered a pressure sensor to adapt onto the fuel rail to be the judge of whether I am getting what I need. This is the one; Amazon.com: Autex Pressure Transducer/Sender/Sensor 100 Psi Stainless Steel For Oil, Fuel, Air, Water: Automotive
 

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May want to plug and re-weld a bung for the wideband... You don't want it right behind the narrowband (or any other obstruction). And it should be between 10 degrees to 80 degrees from upright.
 

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Thanks @5ft24 that makes sense. The new bung I added is at about 50-60 degrees above horizontal right now. If I move it down and to the rear a bit further it would be farther it will be getting flow from all primaries at that point, but seems like still turbulence/disruption from the mixing. Or I could go on the other side of the mid pipe connection just before the cat, but could also be seeing turbulence. A couple circles on the photo show these other spots. Thoughts?
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I am just getting through a memorable long tubes install experience. I ordered the 1-7/8 long tubes and spent some time reading about ways to reduce the install pain. Instructions by Doric especially helpful, but yet...

Round 1: With new jet-coated parts in hand, I spent several hours trying to get things to fit and it turns out I had been shipped the wrong parts. The box was unmarked, but I eventually figured out I had been sent CTS-V headers. After taking dimensions and sending photos to convince, a new set shows up about 8 weeks later.

Round 2: New parts look great! Passenger side install in minutes, perfectly routed, scratch free. Is this is gonna be easy? Nope. Drivers side - get steering lines, everything back in place and go for final assembly of header bolts and the problems begin. Primaries hitting hard against the steering rack and lines for starters. I spent (quite) a few hours, days looking at how to resolve this peacefully. I ended up doing the following with lift/transmission jack and prybars/ratchet-strap, but only minimal improvement:
  • Shifting the steering rack to the left as far as possible
  • Aligning the front cradle (I think it was really close to start with)
  • Loosen the motor mounts and shift to right as far as possible
  • I installed new motor mounts, but they are same height as stock - I checked them before putting them in
  • Lifted the motor up anyway on the mounts just to see if spacing the mounts might help. Might help slightly, but only if I went past hitting the Maggie on the tower cross bar.
  • Tried moving the transmission rear mount around a bit, but this just made it more obvious that I was springing hard against the steering rack. Got laser level under car and learned that the driveline isn’t centered or parallel on the vehicle. Ended up leaving this in its original position even though small clearance gains could be found.
Round 3: I can’t wait another 8 weeks, summer in Minnesota will be over.
  • Heat and beat on 3 of the primaries to get needed clearance to rack, lines, boot on output shaft and outer frame
  • Cut off the heat shield stud on the frame that was hitting
  • Ground down casting and socket head screw where output shaft hsg attaches to steering rack
  • Gently bent steering lines to make about ¼ inch of clearance
  • Lifted up on collector during final header bolt torque. This is the most significant improvement I found, but I am not convinced it won't drift down over time.
  • Caved in one of the primaries too far and cut out/welded in a stainless patch. (photo of ugliness) I am guessing I am at about 60% flow area now for 4-5”
  • Installed/Uninstalled steering rack/headers about 7-8 times through the entire process.
  • I have about 1/4" min clearance now everywhere. Will be adding some thermal insulation material for insurance.
I believe I have an open offer from Kooks to send my driver’s side parts back over the winter for a part that fits, so despite the problems, grateful for that.
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Discussion Starter #6
I swapped out the thermistor to the faster acting Omega model. I had this done previously with N/A and it helped significantly, so decided to go for it again here before putting everything back together. The lower plenum cover is very easy to remove, otherwise the procedure is same as N/A.
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I didn’t like the way the wires exit the plenum, it looked like the little silver tang was already rubbing insulation off, plus the wires bend over sharp and just didn’t seem like the best setup. So I made a little bracket to re-use the plug from the OEM setup and then heat shrink down to the base. Added a little o-ring to the base to protect a bit more against the tang and smooth out any bending that might occur.

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The bracket is then held down just under the jackshaft by one of the fuel rail screws.

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I spent some time looking at options for the intercooler coolant reservoir cause to avoid covering up the battery. From reading various sources it doesn’t seem like the size of the reservoir matters much unless you are trying to fill it with ice, which I’m not interested in at this point. I wanted something that sort of looks like original equipment and found an Edelbrock bottle that fits the space available.

I made a couple brackets to hold it in place. The smaller bracket mounts to the M6 studs that also hold the ABS module. Then the other flat bracket attaches to the M6 inserts that are molded into the bottom of the tank.
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I shoved the battery as far inboard as possible to check against worst case clearance and found a spot with about 3/16" clearance to both the battery and the ABS unit. I slightly bent a couple of the brake lines to improve clearance to get at the nuts from the top with a socket/extension. The bottle needed to be at about 35 degrees for the location I am showing to route the hose without kinking. Further inboard might be possible, but starts to cover access to the screws and get closer to the primaries.

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When I went ahead and filled up the system, I realized the bottle needs to be the highest spot in the system to properly get everything filled. I need about another inch of height to get back to the outlet height of the battery mounted tank, so planning to add some spacers to this setup for now. Then maybe it turns into a winter project to fix up for a long term solution with any other problems I find.

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A few appearance things. Going to leave the fuel rail covers off for sure.

The power steering pump reservoir was really bugging me. So I decided to dye it, just to try something different. Dyeing the Power Steering Reservoir
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I ditched the original coil pack brackets and went with the ICT billet ones. The finish was bugging me, so I used some scratch pads to give it a “brushed” look and put a few coats of Sharkhide on as a protectant.
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Valve covers got 3 coats of VHT crinkle paint
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Then bake at 200 degrees for an hour
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Together looks like this
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Discussion Starter #9
More assembly and got it running!

I installed the Cold Air Inductions intake. It came with a nice high quality steel tube that unfortunately doesn’t fit when used with my Maggie. I didn't read carefully enough when I made the purchase.

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The intake tube that came with the Magnuson kit however fit just fine after a little bit of trimming on the snout. I am happy with how this is all coming together and liking the black and silver color scheme. I have long list of small things to finish up, but I need to look for bigger problems first.

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The moment of truth arrives - The initial 30 second startup went well, then I stopped and look for leaks, etc and everything looked as expected!

With that victory I was full of confidence which was quickly crushed by the second startup and it made some horrible sounds. I think it was running on 3 cylinders and it went into limp mode. After some investigation I discovered the throttle connector was not fully seated. Much better after that.

Then for the first drive… gave it a few blocks just idling but I really couldn't wait to hear the supercharger howl. I gave the pedal just a little push and everything shut down. HP Tuners was logging at the time and I found that fuel pressure had completely disappeared. After a walk home, some head scratching and blaming my son for poor soldering I figured out it was a blown fuse. And it turns out that every time the Newvolt kicks in it blows the 15 Amp fuse. My short term solution is to put in a 20 amp fuse.

I have also made a couple WOT runs with the data logging. I am seeing about 62-64 psi fuel pressure at idle at the rail. It is dropping to 50-52 psi at 6500 rpm with about 6.5 psi of boost.

My tuner is saying I need to get this pressure drop into the 3-5 psi range and I haven't even started down the E85 path yet so there needs to be some changes. It seems like if I push enough power back to the DW300C to be blowing fuses it should be providing an abundance of fuel. Any suggestions where to start:
  • Could it be a bad battery cable or ground?
  • Could the FIC 1000 injectors spitting at 7.2 ms duration at 6500 rpm be asking too much from the fuel system?
  • Or should I send the Newvolt to the scrap heap and look for a better answer? (I did make another pass without this device but the outcome was similar)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That would be great if you could take a look. Tune file attached along with a log with the DW300C, voltage booster installed, and stock wiring. My tuner input the injector data. This is my first experience with tuning so it's possible a couple of the channels I added might not make sense. I like the challenge of it all, but the tuning is the farthest stretch for me.

I have done a few more things since the last post:
  • I was concerned that I may have had flow restriction through the internal filter, or possibly pump assembly issues or just a bad pump, so I found a complete new OEM module for $65 to try to eliminate 3 possible problems at once. It didn't change much but gave me a couple psi less both at the top end and the bottom of the range.
  • I back-probed the fuel pump connector at the base of the fuel tank and got just over 12.5 volts at idle. I am guessing this will dip under load, but not sure how far is good/bad. I picked up some parts to make a voltage divider so I can log the voltage drop on HP tuners under load, but I haven't got that installed yet.
  • Did some research on the flex fuel sensor that was installed, thinking it could be a restriction. One company had some data published that indicated minimal concern, but I didn't find anything on the specific GM PN that I have. Since I purchased the DSX kit specifically for the GTO it seems this is unlikely to be the root cause of my problems.
Currently I am looking at changing up the fuel system significantly by switching to a late model ZR1 fuel module and boost referencing the pressure. There have been many fuel system variations here on this forum, but I haven't seen anyone try this yet. Having OEM reliability is attractive to me. I also noticed the fuel pressure drop when using the stock bucket really suffers when the tank starts to get lower and that won't work for me.

Edit: Site didn't like the .hpt and .hpl extensions, so they are renamed to .txt
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I started collecting some more data on the current fuel system to justify my parts that haven't shown up yet. I'm getting really fast at taking the pump in and out, but that's okay because it's a lot easier than the 6 times I took my left side header out!

Related to the electrical system I was measuring voltage drop across at the hat using a Fluke in trunk when parked and logging to an HPTuners channel when driving. Before making any changes I was at about 12.3 to 12.5
  • The undersized purple wire is commonly mentioned suspect so I strung a length of 10 gauge from about the RH shock tower to the hat connector. That bought about .25-.3 volts. Maybe should have gone all the way to the battery.
  • Then worked on the ground setup, so I strung a short piece of 10 gauge from the hat to one of the bolt locations for anchoring that big rollbar thingy in. That bought about .25 volts
  • For kicks, I ran a jumper cable from the rear ground wire all the way from the battery post to the hat. .03 volts!
  • Then the cooling fans and A/C kicked in and I lost most of the 1/2 volt just gained! Grrr!
Then some road testing to see if this means anything in real life.
  • I was concerned that something was happening at high rpm that was causing loss of power, which is the reason for the HPTuners channel. No problems noticed there and the booster pushed it up to 16.5 to 17 volts.
  • I did notice that installing the voltage booster loses about 1/2 volt at idle, but it makes up for it at boost.
  • I was switching back and forth between 4 combinations of purple vs 10 gauge and boost vs no boost.
  • Maybe gained a psi or two of fuel pressure from best to worst, but it wasn't obvious and repeatable in the logs but still in the 7-9 psi of drop and not close to the 3-5 psi of total pressure drop my tuner wants to see.
  • I was running at about a quarter tank fuel towards the end, and bumped that up to over 1/2 and no noticeable change there either.
FYI - this setup is currently running a stock pump as installed in my newly purchased complete module.

With my next step, I started taking some flow data from the pump as installed in the tank, pumping onto a scale through a pressure regulator at different voltages while timing it. I will post some of that up when I get a chance to compile it. I have read through lots of other posts on this site that talk about the various deficiencies of the stock system when pushed, but I don't recall seeing much discussion about the stock regulator. From what I am seeing the regulator isn't flowing adequately until I get to 52-53 psi - from a base of 62-ish. So I can put my DW300C back in, but I am doubtful if any of this chicken scratching at the electrical system will gain anything IF the flow through the stock regulator is the main problem.
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Are you sure you tapped into the correct purple wire? There are two under the plastic cover by the passenger strut. You need to tap onto the larger one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I hadn't noticed the other purple wire, and this was something I had delegated to my son to figure out. We are definitely using the bigger of the two.

I am rethinking that the regulator is the problem. The system holds pressure after shutdown and generally seems to be doing it's job, but I don't understand the details of how it operates. So a question for anyone here that knows... The 58 psi rating that is often referenced for GM fuel systems - is 58 psi when the regulator just starts to crack open, then it ends up at 62 psi when the valve has opened far enough to bleeding off the full flow? Or is it instantaneous full bleed off when the cracking pressure is reached?
 
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