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Well, shes away for the winter, time to start planning the next batch of mods. Thinking TB, 4" card style MAF, and slightly smaller pulley.

Took it out lastnight for one last drive (ambient temps around 40F) and I must say the mid throttle torque feels amazing with the low temps.
 

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Made an impulse buy on Wednesday and purchased a TVS2300. Should be here in less than 2 weeks so the fun can begin.

I'm going to do the install, then CSP in PA will send me a rough base tune to get me up and running (I don't feel comfortable messing around with HP Tuners on a boosted car) so I can make it to their shop for a dyno tune.

Few questions for anyone who may be able to answer:
1) Any rough idea what a stock manual LS1 with Kooks headers and catless mids should put down with the OE pulley that comes on a TVS2300? Mid 400's?
2) I really want to be able to reuse my Svede intake instead of having to put the stock air box back in. May need to try and figure out how to do a custom coupler (if even possible) since the TB is going to sit a bit higher.
3) I know there isn't a concrete answer, but stock internals, roughyl how much boost can I run and keep the motor safe? I've thought about buying a different pulley, but may just want to stick with the OE pulley right now. I may install a blower cam in the future, but not before I upgrade the clutch (79k miles and still original) and possibly the rear end.

This is a summer fun toy only, so will never see the track.


My car with the original LS1 engine at 45,000 miles:

Ported 243 castings
Lingenfelter blower cam (G13 I think)
Rockers from Jesel
Maggie 2.3
Wally 255 pump
12psi boost
Kooks
Borla
No cats
Holley 92mm TB
ATI balancer
Pump 91 gasoline

633 wheel. I called it the "4L60 killer", lol. Ran great, was a riot of fun. Very reliable engine. Swap out plugs 1x a year and no sweat.


505155
 

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You guys can also run a LPE intake on the maggie, they bolt right up if you wanted another intake option.
 

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Nice LongRifles, thats a very inspiring post. I looked a few intakes before messing up my fenderwell. My winter project is to try and make something similar to the Hnedrix Powerchamber
 

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Ski, turn on comments in youtube damn it. :)

Your other car sounds fantastic btw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
Ehh, must have defaulted to off, and I’m too lazy to figure out how to turn them on. 🙃
 
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Resurrection - Does anyone know if any of the non-cowl fiberglass hoods have more clearance? I was going to keep 'modifying' the stock one but I think I would rather leave it intact
 

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Resurrection - Does anyone know if any of the non-cowl fiberglass hoods have more clearance? I was going to keep 'modifying' the stock one but I think I would rather leave it intact

I didn't have any luck. My throttle body hit the stock hood. A 3" Sunoco cowl from VFN solved it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
File down your throttle body and raise the hood up. Takes time, but you can get a 2300 to fit under a stock hood.
 

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I have it closing over my stock one right now - but I've been eyeing a new TB and larger intake tract which would require further modifying. A lighter hood would also help offset some weight.

I feel like I need at least 100 more whp for that cowl hood
 

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Just got about 50' of 0 gauge from an old welder. Will be relocating battery trunk. May use the space for a larger reservoir but since my goal is to lower nose weight I may have to balance the benefits.
 

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Just scored a custom made coupler from Mooch that he no longer needs so that I can run my Svede. Now I just need to come up with a custom mount for the heat exchanger since the "stock" location won't allow for an OTR.

Can't wait for the kit to arrive so I can start wrenching.
You still plan to run the svede when you rework the heat exchanger? Found a mooch for sale.

Definitely noticing heat soak on the stock box myself
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
I do. Need to buy a dual pass heat exchanger, then I’ll swap everything around. It’s not due to typical NA heat soak though; it’s for a more efficient heat exchanger in order to help with intake temps.

Your IAT will be relocated to below the brick. Temps out of boost stay relatively stable, and you’ll soon find out you’ll be chasing high IAT’s while hammering it instead of worrying about high IAT’s while in stop and go or idle conditions.
 

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You still plan to run the svede when you rework the heat exchanger? Found a mooch for sale.

Definitely noticing heat soak on the stock box myself
I have a mooch too for sale I just haven’t posted it up on here . Came with my svede but I am NA.
 
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