[StolenFox]

Anyone have a GMM (street version) that they havent installed yet that would be willing to trace a copy of the "L" shaped steel handle and fax it to me? I am modifying a Steeda T-5 shifter for use in my car and it would be extremely helpfull if I had an actual size pattern to use as a basis for my design.

I know its an unusual request, but since ive never seen the GMM in person its hard to judge dimensions based on photos.

If anyone is willing to help out, please PM me.

Thanks!

StolenFox

 

[04bostonsound]

Would a race version work? Im not sure what the differences are between the race and street, but I have the race kit that is going in tonight and I can trace the handle for you before I put it on.

 

[StolenFox]

Would a race version work? Im not sure what the differences are between the race and street, but I have the race kit that is going in tonight and I can trace the handle for you before I put it on.

Not sure of the differences either but a copy of the race version would be a good start, and greatly apprechiated!!!

StolenFox

 

[Fox Mulder]

Are you looking for the stub on the shifter that the handle bolts up to, or the adapter that bolts to it for the street version to allow use of the OEM lever? Just trying to clarify for anyone who can help, mine is long installed.

 

[StolenFox]

I am looking for the intermediate bracket that bolts to the stub of the shifter shaft in which you then bolt the stock handle adapter to. Basicaly its the part that repositions the shift knob back where it belongs rather than directly above the shifter shaft that is acting on the transmission.

Thanks for the opportunity to clarify!!!


StolenFox

 

[rocketman69]

Basicaly its the part that repositions the shift knob back where it belongs rather than directly above the shifter shaft that is acting on the transmission.

Ah....you see this is the beauty of the GMM.....it's that part of the handle design which makes all things possible. I will say this....if the steeda shifter is too long (at the stub) you're going to have trouble no matter what handle you use. The base of the Race version is the same as the Street version. The only difference is that in the Street version, they cut the handle off and placed an angled bracket to the short side so you can bolt up the stock shifter handle.

I'm in the process of making some GMM-esqe handles that may work with other shifters (i.e. Hurst, Pro 5.0, ect...). Now if I could just find the damned time to get them made. Good luck, wish I had my extra handle here to trace out for you, but it's back home in Michigan.

-Gib

 

[Fox Mulder]

Right, and it's that angled bracket he is looking for. That is the adapter I was referring to.

 

[StolenFox]

Ah....you see this is the beauty of the GMM.....it's that part of the handle design which makes all things possible. I will say this....if the steeda shifter is too long (at the stub) you're going to have trouble no matter what handle you use.

-Gib

Its not the height of the steeda handle stub that concerns me as I plan on dissasembling the shifter to cut and redrill the shaft to length. The overall height from the bottom of the shifter base to the top of the ring that hold the stop bolts is what worries me. Until I pull the stocker and begin modifications I wont know if it will work!

StolenFox

 

[StolenFox]

See crappy pic below....




The arrow shows the part in question

 

[Striped04]

Why not mod a Pro 5.0 for an F-Body? I'm sure the Steeda is a good shifter but I would imagine that the Pro 5.0 would be close. The bolt holes on the F-body shifter are nuch closer to what you need also. All you need to do is move the holes 1/4" forward and then use a handle like the GMM design and you're there.

 

[StolenFox]

Why not mod a Pro 5.0 for an F-Body? I'm sure the Steeda is a good shifter but I would imagine that the Pro 5.0 would be close. The bolt holes on the F-body shifter are nuch closer to what you need also. All you need to do is move the holes 1/4" forward and then use a handle like the GMM design and you're there.

I agree that the Pro 5.0 for an f-body would be easy but after seeing Proxes result using a MGW shifter for the T-5 I thought id give it a try with the Steeda. I have used the Steeda on my mustangs in the past and found it to be a great shifter. Using a T-5 shifter only requires a second set of holes drilled approx .25" toward the pivot from the passenger side. The rest is handle modification. I bought a week old Steeda sport shifter for the T-5 on Ebay for $40 so it will be worth a try. If the Steeda is a no-go the pro 5.0 will be the next step. I wonder if it would be possible to buy direct from pro 5.0 without the holes drilled? The idea of elongating the holes bothers me a little.

StolenFox

 

[StolenFox]

Can anyone help??????????

StolenFox

 

[StolenFox]

Bump for me.


Anyone???????

 

[StolenFox]

Bump

 

[Striped04]

I don't have a street version but I think that you could make one from a race version handle. I think if you cut off the top part of the race handle and then bent part of the remaining handle you'd basically have the same part. You would then have to drill and tap two holes in the top part of the handle. The factory handle is bent at a 30 degree angle.

You also have to consider how far apart the mounting holes are on the base of your shifter. (maybe you already thought about this) Most shifters are 7/8" apart center to center. The GMM shifter has it's mounting holes at 3/4" apart which is different from most shifters on the market. At least most F-Body shifters that I know of. I could trace my race handle out and fax it to you with a diagram of what I'm talking about if you're interested. PM me your fax number and I'll send it to you tonight.

 

[StolenFox]

PM sent!!

Thank You!

StolenFox

 

[StolenFox]

Anyone have the street version so I can compare the two?



Thanks!

StolenFox

 

[rond944]

I'll try and get you a tracing of my street version today . PM me a name and FAX #.

Ron