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Doc, Just Doc
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O.K. guys, I'm looking at doing a few mods to the car and in the hp area I have picked these mods: JBA shorties to the RT high-flow cat midpipe to the stock cat-back. K&N Aircharger, plugs, wires, and a dyno tune once I have everything installed. What would be a nice cam to go with the mods I plan to do. I'm not looking at changing the heads just yet and this is my daily driver and the family does ride in the car on occasion so I need to be able to carry on a conversation without yelling. Give me your feedback!

Doc :secret:
 

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If you look at the car bone did it would probably be very nice to complement your mods. He went with MTI's stealth 2 cam. It's 224/220 .581/.581 116LSA. It should idle very nicely and give you some top end as well. The car should put somewhere in the 360's whp to the ground. That's plenty to turn 105-106-107mph traps and run high 12's with traction.

If you are a little more daring and don't mind a tough idle I'd say the Compcams 224/224 112LSA seems to be a great choice from tons of members in ls1tech. You really have to decide how far you want to go with the car to really get the right cam the first time.

My cam is a 234/228 113LSA and I would have liked something a little more aggressive. Most people who actually hear the car in person tend to disagree though. :)
 

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Doc, Just Doc
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Thanks Doug for the help. I think the Stealth IIs are the ones to go with. 411 rwhp in your car is pretty darn aggressive and you don't have you LTs installed yet. You should be able to hit high 11s with the LTs and gears installed no problem. What do you think on 1/4 mile times for your goat?

Doc
 

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Choosing a cam for a GTO is going to be mostly in what the owner feels the car should "act" like. Some may want wild and radical, others want to maintain the quiet civility of the car. :) Cams in the low to mid 220's duration with relatively wide LSA's (114-116) will keep the car nice and docile. Tighten up the LSA and/or add some duration, and bring on the lumpy idle ...

Nearly every cam you put in a street car is going to be a compromise -- you just have to decide where and how much you want to compromise. Decide what you think the car should run like, and then pick a cam to match that.
 

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I think you'll find that even with the Stealth II that Bone had, the JBA's choke the car a lot. He has since sold them and is stepping up to long tubes to help it out. The Stealth II needs a very good flowing exhaust. Shorty 1 5/8" headers aren't a part of that solution.

IMO, you need to go fairly small on the cam. So much so that it probably isn't really worth swapping out the stock cam if you keep the shorties.
 

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IMHO, I don't think the JBA's were choking him to the point where he was totally killing his power. I think his probelm was with the stock intermediate pipe(between the shorties and stock exhaust) That pipe necks down to roughly 1.5" in some areas and has small cats and resonators. That and the fact that he is running a reverse split cam he really(and myself) needs to run a free flowing exhaust system.

Doc- I'm hoping for high 11's. It will take alot of traction which is obviously going to be the main probelm After the LT's/gears/ tb a clutch and lightweight flywheel is on the list.
 

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Doc GTO said:
O.K. guys, I'm looking at doing a few mods to the car and in the hp area I have picked these mods: JBA shorties to the RT high-flow cat midpipe to the stock cat-back. K&N Aircharger, plugs, wires, and a dyno tune once I have everything installed. What would be a nice cam to go with the mods I plan to do. I'm not looking at changing the heads just yet and this is my daily driver and the family does ride in the car on occasion so I need to be able to carry on a conversation without yelling. Give me your feedback!

Doc :secret:
I did up a custom camshaft for a gentleman that was looking to keep 99% of the car stock but wanted a bit more of a rumble. Made tons of torque and didn't require a crazy tune.

Specs were 218*-223*-112*

Ed
 

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Basically the same as the first cam I put in my 98 Formula way back in the day ;) 218/224 .528/.535 114 installed 4 degrees advanced. Through the exhaust you couldn't barely tell the car wasn't stock. I blamed the idle on headers, and MOST folks believed it. Great gain in the midrange, made the car feel quite a bit faster despite "only" gaining ~25RWHP peak.
 

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Brains said:
Basically the same as the first cam I put in my 98 Formula way back in the day ;) 218/224 .528/.535 114 installed 4 degrees advanced. Through the exhaust you couldn't barely tell the car wasn't stock. I blamed the idle on headers, and MOST folks believed it. Great gain in the midrange, made the car feel quite a bit faster despite "only" gaining ~25RWHP peak.
Close but even though the .050" duration numbers are similar, the rest of the profile is totally different...

I'd bet that cam was 272*/278*-218*/224*-.527"/.534"???

This one is a lot different... ;)

Ed
 

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Some of those cams will require a good computer tuner to get it to idle smooth enough that the car keeps its drivability, I know I hate a street machine that has to have the pedal pushed two or three times before you can get the idle up out of its lope so it doesnt stall when you try to leave an intersection. The LSA needs to be 114 or higher, the LSA116 cams idle real good if the duration isnt too long, say above 226.
 

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04 LS1-MAN said:
Some of those cams will require a good computer tuner to get it to idle smooth enough that the car keeps its drivability, I know I hate a street machine that has to have the pedal pushed two or three times before you can get the idle up out of its lope so it doesnt stall when you try to leave an intersection. The LSA needs to be 114 or higher, the LSA116 cams idle real good if the duration isnt too long, say above 226.
Actually it's not the LSA that counts. The timing events are the key and the LSA is only a by product of those timing events. That camshaft mentioned above required nothing but some minor tuning to get max power. It ran fine as a bolt in but the gentleman wanted a touch more...

Ed
 
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