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The Entenmann's Shim-Sham
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12,092 Posts
Impressions of the MGW-P vs. GMM (at least when it was not worn out)?
Both are good shifters. I have had both the race and street versions of the GMM. The race handle broke on me, which prompted me to replace the it with a street handle and a Lou's Short Stick. The combination made the shifts very short and precise. I enjoyed that shifter a lot.

The MGW-P is a great shifter, and I like it better. Even with the handle ran all the way down, the throws are a touch longer than the GMM/LSS combo. However, I think I prefer that since it allows a more positive feel. I'd say the throws are more reminiscent of the GMM with the race handle.

Overall, I would pick the MGW over the GMM for a couple of reasons:

1. It does away with the white boot, which just degrades over time and is expensive to replace.

2. It doesn't have the two mounting bolts that always want to loosen up.

3. The height is adjustable.
 

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49 Posts
I took mine in to have the trunk looked at because it usually won't open. The button in the glovebox rarely works, and the remotes aren't much better. I've pulled thru the plastic on the yellow emergency release so that needs to be replaced. Dealership couldn't not get the trunk open. They tested both remotes and the glovebox button and it worked every time :scratch:

The parts dept said the yellow tab is a discontinued part so I had to buy the whole release cable assembly on ebay just to get the stupid yellow pull tab. :eyetwitch:
 

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97 Posts
Ported LS2 Manifold

Installed a ported LS2 manifold. My highly calculated Butt-O-Meter it does pull much better above 3500 rpm through 6500
 

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1 of 40,757
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6,226 Posts
Installed a transmission mount. Original was about 1/4".
Helped remove most of the vibration. I now get a mid frequency short amplitude vibration from what feels like the rear flange or diff.
 

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6 Posts
I'm in the middle of upgrading a lot of the clutch assembly which has turned into a gigantic "well, while I'm here I should...". SO, I've installed new Hinson poly motor mounts. The originals were completely ripped and destroyed. I could literally lift the engine up while under the car which I know shouldn't be possible. I installed the slave cylinder I got from Tick Performance and their speed bleed line for easy clutch bleeding. I followed that up with a Tick Performance master cylinder replacement. Want to talk about a bitch. That suuuucked. I will say that the customer service at Tick Performance along with their clutch package deals are top notch. I recommend them for parts no doubt. Tomorrow I'll likely install my Monster flywheel, LT1-S twin disc clutch and pressure plate assembly and reinstall my transmission. I'm gonna follow that up with a Hinson Transmission mount and SLP Loudmouth 1 Cat back system to replace my Borla system that is getting kind of crusty. I hope that all of this work will make shifting a lot smoother and I'll be able to grab some gears in the higher revs a lot easier. I also can't wait to wake up every neighbor on my block with that SLP system. It'll be awesome.
 

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Rockin the Bakken
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319 Posts
Installed a transmission mount. Original was about 1/4".
Helped remove most of the vibration. I now get a mid frequency short amplitude vibration from what feels like the rear flange or diff.
You might be getting vibration because your output shaft angle doesn't mirror your pinion shaft angle. If you changed output shaft angle by one degree up you'll have to drop your pinion angle one degree down.
 

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Chickun maka lousy houspet
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372 Posts
IN the past week I...

1). Got the CTS-V sedan rims back from Weldcraft (had fronts narrowed to 8.5")
2). Dropped the rims off to have hub bored to fit the GTO.
3). Saw the progress on the Independant LS9 Supercharger hub I'm having made.
4). Bought a new LS9 S/C lid (old one had a hole drilled through)**
5). Got an e-mail from Mavman that my gauges will be shipping out.
6). Ordered the G-Force Engineering Toe Rods, Heavy Duty Dual Bushing Diff. Mount and crush collar (because my diff leaks)
7). Set the trunk insert in place to see how my design looks (see pic).




** I had the original lid welded, but because the cast aluminum had so many impurities, I started looking for another. They listed online through GM Parts direct as available, but I wasn't going to spend $2,100 for a lid. I managed to find one for less than that, but it took about 4 months to find.
 

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6,226 Posts
Here's a funny one. Flled up my car for the first time in 2 years and the pump is shutting off even when trickling fuel in. Researched the issue and found its most likely the vent solenoid. So I ordered one 2 days ago. Yesterday I get the Check Engine Light for EVAP Purge solenoid. I feel like the car whisperer. lol

You might be getting vibration because your output shaft angle doesn't mirror your pinion shaft angle. If you changed output shaft angle by one degree up you'll have to drop your pinion angle one degree down.
Thanks for the info. I checked them with the exhaust in place so it made it difficult. When I replace the trans output shaft seal I'll check the pinion angles better than I did.

If its not that it may be the trans output shaft bushing, or possibly something with the CV axles. Or maybe an unbalanced shaft. I've noticed the axles rubber boots are dry rotted. Hoping they are not letting dirt in. I'd rather not have to spend the money on new axles at the moment.
 

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The redheaded stepchild
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664 Posts
The past couple days I've gotten the engine down to a long block so it's ready to get yanked out tomorrow. Pulled the T56 to find the pilot bearing is practically non-existent. Good thing the clutch and slave and other consumables are getting replaced.
 

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102 Posts
Swapped O2 sensor but the Innovate gauge/LC-2 controller is going haywire or flashing 7.4. Based on a thread search, sounds like either loose connection or LC-2 controller. Only 18 months old and a new controller needed? Another 200 quid!
 

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6,226 Posts
Pulled the exhaust to check pinion angles only to find the DS yoke has .117" of play at the trans. Pulled the output shaft case to replace output shaft bushing. Made another thread about it in drivetrain section.
 

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13 Posts
Decided to go through my 06 and make it what i wanted. And all my parts came in over the last 2 weeks! Wooty woot

Texas Speed Forged 402 C.I.D. LS2 Aluminum Block
Wiseco -3cc Flattop Pistons
Scat Pro-Comp 6.125" I-Beam w/ ARP Bolts
Texas Speed Forged 4340 Crankshaft
PRC Aluminum 237cc 6 bolt heades milled to 65cc
ARP Main Studs
Durabond Cam Bearing
King Rod Bearing Set
King Main Bearing Set
Dual Spring Kit
GM LS7-Style Roller Lifter Set
TSP Hardened Chromemoly Pushrods
TSP Ported LS6 Oil Pump
1/2" ARP Head Studs
TSP Stroker Cam 244/248 .615"/.615 114 LSA
FAST 46 lb. Fuel Injectors
LPE 160 Thermostat
Motion Raceworks V2 LS Flex Line Crossover Steam Kit
Hinson Motor and Trans Mounts
Aeromotive 340 Stealth Fuel Pump
ATI Super Damper with Hub & Aluminum Shell, 10% Underdrive and belts
ARP Balancer Bolt
FAST LSXr Cathedral 102mm Intake
Nick Williams 102 Drive By Wire Throttle Body Innovate Motorsports Wideband Air/Fuel Gauge Kit includes LC-2 & Bosch LSU 4.9
Motion Raceworks -10AN Wrinkle Black PCV Catch Can And Breather Combo Kit with 6 Ft. Fragola -10AN Hose/Fittings.
Improved Racing EGM-204 Oil Pan Baffle
Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder
McLeod 6405507M RTX Twin Disc Ceramic Clutch with Steel Flywheel
ARP Pressure plate bolts

(Previous mods kooks/corsa, RPM Stage 4 T56, Aluminum Driveshaft shop Driveshaft, GMM Ripshifter, Pedders 0 Drop Rear, Pedders Strut Mounts w/ bearing, Pedders GSR big bore shocks, Lovells 0 Drop Fron, BMR Strut Bar, BMR Sway Bar and some small other stuff. )
 

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Like this
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35,655 Posts
I don't usually post what i do in this thread, but... i did this with spraycans, yo.

VFN 3" cowl hood (which is a pain to fit, so unless you have a real good cheap body guy or are good at fiberglass work, don't bother). did a little work so the hood fit better, then reinforced the hinges, installed the factory catch/hoodpin+spring, and a pair of quicklatch hood pins. paint was from automotivetouchup.com, the basecoat and the 2k urethane clear they sell, which were all in aresol spraycans. stuff is almost an exact match for the factory color. wetsanded starting with 600 and worked up to 2000, and used the griots rando-orbital buffer that they sell at autozone and meguires mirror glaze ultra cut compound. (like almost the whole smurfing bottle. i should have probably sanded more). i've never used a random orbital before. i love it.

not as nice as a pro job, but it does look far, far better than what i expected. the lighting in the garage is LED, maybe i'll take some pictures in the sunlight later after i buff more. i actually need to do the whole car now with the buffer.

i will take the buffer over it again a few times, like i said as there were some spots that were very hard to get to with the pad that you don't see in the pics, like where the flat part of the hood started to rise up into the sides of the cowl up near the top of the hood.

lessons learned: the next time i paint a large panel, i'm block sanding. i did all the sanding by hand, and i kind of expected the slightly wavy result i had (you can really see it in the pic where you are looking down the hood with the door reflection), but then again i expected a lot more orange peel and haze/visible sanding scratches in the finish. i didn't expect the buffer and compound to work this well. considering the job turned out far better than i expected, i could have put more initial work in and it would have turned out super nice. i also should have sprayed more clear around the back edge and on the side (VFN's have a large, flat lip on either side) so i could have sanded there more for a better finish in those areas.

all the same, i think it's a pretty decent result. not up to slammin86 or skipopeye standards, but i'm pretty impressed. my wife even commented that it looks like the car came from the factory with the hood, lol (GM poor body gaps and all, lulz, smurfing VFN hood).

498676


498677
498678
 

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6,226 Posts
Looks great. I’m sure it was a lot of work. I’m wanting to spray my bumper this winter but screwing up the whole bumper would be a lot worse than the marks chips and scratches it has now.
 

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Like this
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35,655 Posts
QSM is going to be a bear to match, i would imagine. I'm trying to paint a IBM bumper and i can already see it's too dark. I really think it has to do with the flake in the paint not coming out. Maybe it's settling to the bottom of the can and i really need to shake it for like an hour beforehand, lol.
 
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