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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking into doing a cam swap and want to know exactly what i need to buy(i.e. valve springs,etc.) so I don't half ass this project. All help will be appreciated.
 

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Kahuna Bill
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New car? Hell, all you need is cam, springs (single if under .580 lift, dual if over IMO) and hardened pushrods. No gaskets needed. Im assuming you are going to be adding headers as well? And if an auto tranny, you will more than likely need a better torque converter. Are you doing this youself?
 

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if you wanna try and buy pretty much everything required in one stop, talk to EDC (flowtech). its ed i believe, he can help you out. if i decide to install the cam myself, thats who im gonna get it from. if i choose not to, well, AZPS isnt but a few min away
 

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Growing up is an option
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call Ed. give him $925. go to Autozone and get free rental on their pulley puller. get a new crank bolt and another one that's about an inch longer to get the pulley started. valve spring compressor tool, big breaker bar and assorted metric sockets (24mm for one for the crank bolt and 8mm for the rockers).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
redrum suggest dual springs if over .580, but the cam I am looking at is .563/
.563 with a 114 lsa would it be better to just get the dual springs. To everybody sorry about the spelling in the title I had just got home and was tired.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh you mean like azps.
 

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HPT Street Tuner
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you can get a cam package:cam of your choice,dual springs,retainers,seals,pushrods.. for $725, cheaper with single springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Would the tr224 with the 114 be a good choice if I was thinking of eventually running nitrous or if it isn't what should I look for in cam specs? That fms custom cam is looking good too. The tr224 is .563/.563 and the fms one is .588/.588 would that make that much of a difference in performance. Oh by the way I am looking for a 114lsa because I was told it would pass california's smog.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
By azps I heard that when you buy one of their custom grind cams they make it put in and they won't say exactly what it is so that nobody could copy thier design.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
To those that helped I appreciate it very much. Since I am strapped for cash I am going to have to buy all this stuff 1 piece at a time then install. Do I also need to change the pushrods, retainers and rockers. Would it be necessary to get titanium retainers, roller lifters and rockers, or would that be a bit over kill.
 

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Kahuna Bill
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socal gto said:
To those that helped I appreciate it very much. Since I am strapped for cash I am going to have to buy all this stuff 1 piece at a time then install. Do I also need to change the pushrods, retainers and rockers. Would it be necessary to get titanium retainers, roller lifters and rockers, or would that be a bit over kill.
Just remember, if you use dual vavle springs..they will more than likely have to be changed in 15-20k miles on an aggressive high lift cam....and are 3x's the cost of Comp 918's. If you choose a TR224 (great cam), you can just use Comp 918's and probably never have to change springs. Yes, if you go with the TR224, then titanium retainers and rockers and all that would be overkill. Again, Thunder Racing, Texas Speed, Speed Engineering and many others sell a "cam package" with all you need. The packages save you money. If you try to piece it you will pay thru the nose. A TR224 will pass smog test. I fear a larger cam will fail. Also there is the issue of headers. If you go with a TR224 you will need headers. I dont know what lmitations you have on headers in Calif.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Currently I am running a set of jba shorties and catless mids, but I am thinking eventually changing them to long tubes and saying f*** smog.
 

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socal gto said:
To those that helped I appreciate it very much. Since I am strapped for cash I am going to have to buy all this stuff 1 piece at a time then install. Do I also need to change the pushrods, retainers and rockers. Would it be necessary to get titanium retainers, roller lifters and rockers, or would that be a bit over kill.
the dual springs are mostly for higher lift cams but i don't know why one would go thru the expense and trouble of changing a cam unless it had higher lifts. the push rods and titanium retainers will help with the higher lift plus they allow you to safely get higher revs. you already have roller lifters and the rockers would be nice but not mandatory. BTW all of Ed's cams aren't $925. He grinds other ones too. I loved his Street Sweeper HT cam in my LS1 and my LS1 loves it too. remember when you're looking at all of the hype there's more to a cam than just the numbers of lift, LSA, duration or even dyno gains of horsepower or torque. that's why you need to find someone you can trust that knows what's best for your driving usage and setup.
 

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Kahuna Bill
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Your shoties will do fine. And svede, I dont understand why one would want to spend all that extra money on duals and retainers unless in a race application. Low lift cams can produce great results as mine did. I know dyno #'s are somewhat irrelavent...but I dyno'd at 412/395 with a low lift. Again, its all relavent to what one wants to accomlish. But if one is on a budget and not racing the car...then a lot of the extras are a waste of money. socal, I say if you got the balls, then go for the long tubes. :gr_devil:
Good luck in your venture.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Once again thanks for all the help guys. I started looking at cams when I had my s10, but forgot everything about them. Also what is flowtechs website. People have told me to look to the right at the vendors list, but my computer seems to block those out and I only have a black box.
 

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Kahuna Bill
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Discussion Starter #17
Every other computer I have gone on shows the vendors, but not mine.
 

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Kahuna Bill
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Might have some levels set too high in Windows internet security settings also. I had to remove Norton's internet secuity cause it was messing with everything.
 
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