speed_demon_freak said:Everyone talks about it and how bad it is for the car. What is it and why dont you want it?
T.Vick said:I'm wondering if this was more for liability than longevity. A person that I have talked to removed the TM from his wifes '02 Firehawk with the Predator software. Her first run at the track with the TM removed she almost ran the car into the wall because of the wheel spin on the 1-2 shift. She wouldn't even drive the car again after that. I've also heard that the trannys are much tougher than they're given credit for. This is when I started to wonder if they protecting the trannys or actually covering themselves from lawsuits?
Yes an edit will make a massive difference, especially if the car is an auto. You will notice off line throttle respone and from a roll plus added bonus of fuel economy.craigD said:So with all you guys are describing with TM on A4s, should the A4 cars be faster than they are off the floor if it is edited correctly? Will an edit change the way an A4 GTO runs that much, like dramatically different ? I never thought those transmissions were weak or am I wrong in this assumption?
In a word, Yes!craigD said:So with all you guys are describing with TM on A4s, should the A4 cars be faster than they are off the floor if it is edited correctly? Will an edit change the way an A4 GTO runs that much, like dramatically different ? I never thought those transmissions were weak or am I wrong in this assumption?
Old Goat,Old Goat said:In a word, Yes!
The transmissions are good for about 380 lbft as they were tweaked for the GTO. They're not a normal 4L60-E, nor a full fledged 4L65-E, but are between the two, termed a 4L60-E HD and incorporate a lot of 4L65-E parts. I can see how torque management could alleviate both issues, driveline shock, and liability for 'runaway'. I'm still not interested in having it. I already have a guardian angel, and I can control my gas foot. If the transmission can't live without TM softening the shifts and interfering with torque at launch, it should have gotten the full fledged 4L65-E, or the 4L80-E if necessary,and the added cost passed on, or perhaps the car should have been all M6's rather than hobbling the auto version. I want all the car I bought, and believe it or not, the car might have actually met CAFE standards without TM and a proper solid shifting transmission, or at least the mode button they deleted, and the gas guzzler tax might not have applied, plenty enough money freed up from the tax to pay for a heavier transmission at the same price.
I don't know, maybe it's just that doing that without notifying potential owners before purchase smacks of dishonesty, sort of like a sleezy used car salesman asserting, "No Maam, that not yellow paint on the doojamb, this used car was never a repainted taxi, that's yellow primer!"
In a word car, Yes. Drivetrain effects of TM and Abuse control, not just no, but H*ll NO! I am working around it, probably 70%, until I understand it better and can make an intelligent decision about what goes, and what if anything, stays.craigD said:Old Goat,
Are you satisfied with your auto trans car after the mods to the TM ?Is it worth dealing with to reprogam or just go with the M6. I could accept either unless the auto cars seem like a dead end then I would just focus on the stick car. Craig
If it's to be a daily driver and you don't have a 30 mile commute that takes an hour or less if you hit the road at 3:00 PM and 2 1/2 hours if you hit the road at 3:30 or later and is all stop and go averaging 10 MPH, or a health issue (I am on Coumadin making any arthritis treatment impossible...some days are a screaming....well, you get the idea) by all means, go stick.UBDSLO1 said:Thanks for the review OLD GOAT. that was very well written, I'm still undecided as to get a 6spd. or A4, the GTO will not be my daily driver, so now I'm leaning to the 6spd.
Thanks Old Goat, with all that research you have done I will go with a stick car. Thanks again, CraigOld Goat said:If it's to be a daily driver and you don't have a 30 mile commute that takes an hour or less if you hit the road at 3:00 PM and 2 1/2 hours if you hit the road at 3:30 or later and is all stop and go averaging 10 MPH, or a health issue (I am on Coumadin making any arthritis treatment impossible...some days are a screaming....well, you get the idea) by all means, go stick.
If you have a hard commute where the roads turns from a highway to an absolute stationary horror show, or just don't want to stir your own all the time, still think auto and learn it's limits.
I have no gripe with the convenience of the auto at all. My gripe is with all the unannounced baggage that comes with the auto that actually makes it a better daily driver, but s*ck as an occasional weekend warrior.
I am by no means hard on the car, I baby it, but even I have bumped heads with TM and Abuse prevention several times when power was needed right now. I wanted and bought a performance car. I didn't blink at the gas guzzler tax. I don't care if Sunoco Ultra is over $2.00 a gallon. I bought a car touted as only a tenth slower than the 6 speed.
I got a car that thinks it knows better than me when to accelerate and how hard, whether or not we're in a situation where it's selected option may not be advisable. What good is an unoffended U-joint when you have a dump truck in the trunk?
I can see what's going on and make the appropriate decision and it will stick in any other car made...just not this one. My decisions have been accident and breakage free, unless you count being last in a line of stopped cars and getting tailended. The poor lady ate a Heavy Duty Step and Tow mounted directly to the frame. I saw it coming, and had no place to go. I stood on the brakes to avoid a Daisy Chain. The truck didn't budge on the KD's I got a dimple in the step, no more. She got a ramp truck.
I took defensive driving, evasive actions, and pursuit driving. I know how to drive around an accident. I have had to avoid a handful over the years sometimes with the brakes and manuvers, sometimes with the loud pedal. I see them coming. The digital idiot didn't, doesn't, and never will. That irks me because it forces me to overcompensate for it by halving what I expect of the car to be safe.
Really, who owns your car? You, or the warranty desk at GM? If they couldn't produce the car for us without limiting it, more or less secretly, to avoid it spitting out parts, why did they bother? That is the only thing I have found NOT to like about my car. At first it was interesting, then I began to wonder how invasive it was, then it almost got us creamed, I learned a way to get around most of it, but it takes an extra motion that costs time and I don't want to drive around in 3rd all day, although the pipes speak so sweetly at 3,000 RPM... Now I want to strangle it, and I will so I can have my car back. I am constantly reminded of Nelson on the Simpsons....Ha! ha! goes the digital idiot...
Johmol, my beef isn't with how much power the car has, or how much it needs, but that some onboard digital know it all occasionally makes an overriding decision on whether or not that power will be applied on demand and as demanded, regardless of the actual situation that might make the release of that power the right choice. T/C has an override button. This does not.johmol said:Don't know if my car is like ever other A4?? But, I read this thread, and on my way to work this morning, I tried the following. I turned trac off and put the car in "1". I was at a stop sign and was turning right onto a road that was gradually curving to the right. I accelerated without spinning the tires and manually shifted to "2" at 5500. The tires spun and the car swung to the left. I let off the gas and straightened it. How much more power does the car need??