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Im wondering what it would cost for an A4 6.0L minus the tires to handle 800hp and not break. Currently the engine is pretty much bone stock, and I'd like to gradually build the engine to 800hp. Start with things that usually break or are not suited under that load, and then move to major power adding. I dont have a budget laid out, but I was just wondering what the cheapest way to get there is, just so I could see if the budget could be potentially girlfriend friendly. If it's too expensive I probably wont target 800hp so I just wanna know what your guys' experience are.
 

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Forged internals, twin turbo, 4l80 tran swap, cv joints

Also, start searching the FI threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Forged internals, twin turbo, 4l80 tran swap, cv joints

Also, start searching the FI threads.
May I ask why the tranny and joints? Im a total newbie and dont know much about the inner workings of cars and how power translates to all the different parts of the vehicle
 

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lol, no way.
it's an auto, he will have $5k in trans, stall, driveshaft alone. Cheapest a blower setup will be is $4500 for a 2650 and more like $7k for a procharger. He could do a CHEAP turbo setup from CXRacing for around $3k. If he had fab skills he could do a turbo setup for less but based on the overall thread I doubt he possesses the needed skills/tools for that.

Then you need a fuel system and a cam kit at minimum. At 800whp he is gonna be pushing that stock bottom to it's limits. 800crank and he will hold together longer long as he has a competent tuner.

Cheap, fast, reliable- pick 2.
 

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There is a lather rinse repeat cheap racecar minset.

Chances are he should go a cheap disposable 5.3/4.8 bottom end setup and a chinesium snail. Cheapo trans.

Run it till it blows, swap in a 500 buck short block or a greasy old 4l80e. Rinse repeat.
 

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Just a word of advice. I wouldn't shoot for a number (800hp) but look hard at what you want, whether it's "I want to go faster" or "my neighbor has 750hp and I want a bigger number to brag on"

GTOs are expensive to maintain, parts-wise. I have a good job, I do my own work but I still limp a little when I price parts (just try looking up headlight prices, for example). You can double or triple that if you're paying to have things fixed and not doing the work yourself. If this is a daily driver (you didn't say), not getting to work because you broke something puts your job at risk. Also, with too much power, there's a chance to get sideways in a hurry, and insurance companies will total a wrecked GTO in a heartbeat.

All of us want to have fun, just trying to save you some pain and angst.
 

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OP just needs to provide more info.

Based on the fact that he wants it reliable and "fast" with a question of how cheap it will be, I'd say he wants it to last past a couple pulls. To that, I agree with kfx: 20k is way shy of what he will need to spend to get the 800hp reliably. 40k would get you to a reliable, 800hp gto. It's not the cheapest way to 800hp, but I gathered he wanted the reliability. So, yeah.
 

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Just a word of advice. I wouldn't shoot for a number (800hp) but look hard at what you want, whether it's "I want to go faster" or "my neighbor has 750hp and I want a bigger number to brag on"

GTOs are expensive to maintain, parts-wise. I have a good job, I do my own work but I still limp a little when I price parts (just try looking up headlight prices, for example). You can double or triple that if you're paying to have things fixed and not doing the work yourself. If this is a daily driver (you didn't say), not getting to work because you broke something puts your job at risk. Also, with too much power, there's a chance to get sideways in a hurry, and insurance companies will total a wrecked GTO in a heartbeat.

All of us want to have fun, just trying to save you some pain and angst.
i took his comment to mean that I was over estimating the cost
 

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it's an auto, he will have $5k in trans, stall, driveshaft alone. Cheapest a blower setup will be is $4500 for a 2650 and more like $7k for a procharger. He could do a CHEAP turbo setup from CXRacing for around $3k. If he had fab skills he could do a turbo setup for less but based on the overall thread I doubt he possesses the needed skills/tools for that.

Then you need a fuel system and a cam kit at minimum. At 800whp he is gonna be pushing that stock bottom to it's limits. 800crank and he will hold together longer long as he has a competent tuner.

Cheap, fast, reliable- pick 2.
well yea, you are right then. Unless he does a 4l80 or th400. If he does a 4l60 like me then yea he might have a big chunk of change in it.
 

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i took his comment to mean that I was over estimating the cost
Yea, I always forget not everyone can do their own work and fabricate. I gotta get out of that mindset. It cost me alot less than 20K to get where I am and mine is 800hp capable.....I just prefer to keep driving it vs fixing it.....is why I dont just crank the boost up like alot of people do. I notice all the youtubers going to the travck and trying to run their shit they just built with just about the full boost they intend on running....on the first pass. Then something breaks. You gotta crawl and walk before you run.
 

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The OP will be paying someone to do the work based upon his posts. Nothing wrong with that, but it's a major factor in how much it's going to cost him to accomplish his goals.

Will this be a daily driver, a weekend toy, street strip, auto cross, or drag car?

Basically the answer to that question will determine how much emphasis you need to put on the suspension, drive train, motor, type of power adder, fuel system, etc. That is a huge factor in overall cost.

Achieving 800 rwhp will probably be the easiest part of the build. Making it reliable, daily capable, and running at the drag strip reliably is going to be the hard and most costly part.

ETA: figure about $100 an hour paying a shop for installs. Any custom stuff gets very pricey fast when paying a shop. Boosted tunes are usually over $700 also. I like to see what things I do myself would cost if I would of paid a shop. It makes me not feel as bad about the money I did spend. Instead I think of what I saved...LOL
 

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May I ask why the tranny and joints? Im a total newbie and dont know much about the inner workings of cars and how power translates to all the different parts of the vehicle
Because the 4l60&5 transmissions can barely hold stock power. 800 will turn them into confetti. The CV joints are stronger, but also will not last long with that much power.
 

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Because the 4l60&5 transmissions can barely hold stock power. 800 will turn them into confetti. The CV joints are stronger, but also will not last long with that much power.
I'm at 800 rwhp with a 4l60e. Will it last? Who knows, but it's on it's 3rd year now boosted without issues and I've had good luck with them in the past from reputable builders. As far as I'm aware it was the original trans as it only had 26,000 miles and was basically stock when I bought it. First year of my ownership I was cam only on stock trans. Second year I put a built 4l60e in it and was only with 10 psi on sbe ls1. Nothing wrong with the stock trans at that time just knew the direction I was headed. Third year was 14 psi on sbe ls1. This year (my 4th year of ownership) I have a forged LS3 with 16 psi and it's doing good so far. If it breaks I'll most likely go to a 4l80e. I didn't want to do that because of the extra weight until it was actually necessary.

I'm not saying starting with something better right from the get go is a bad idea. I'm just saying the 4l60e isn't as fragile as many think especially when built correctly.
 
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