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Puppy Power!!
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Discussion Starter #1
I see all kinds of posts talking about it, but no real fixes. Everyone seems to be adjusting their driving around it.

I emailed Koni about if they are going to release AGX shocks for the GTO. On other cars, I have seen the adjustable shocks pretty much eliminate wheel hop. Being able to stiffen the rear shocks at the track is a nice benefit also. We'll see what they say.

Any other suggestions?
Anybody have poly bushings yet?
Another thought was the driveshaft uses a rubber type joint instead of u-joints? Could those be causing some flexing and loading between the tranny and rearend?

Bob
 

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well i havent tried any huge 5000rpm take offs or anything but i still have never experienced wheel hop in this car. when is everyone else getting it?
 

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Puppy Power!!
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Discussion Starter #3
Hmm, I did a basic 2k rpm let the clutch up quickly while giving it gas type of burnout and got some wheel hop. Not real bad, but I can see where it could really get out of hand.

Bob
 

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hmmm, im gonna go try it out, i have driven it in a while feelin kinda froggy tonight!!!
 

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ok, so after i cleaned all of the rubber off the back of the car, i have come to one conclusion, yes this car has wheel hop. i think that with a touch stronger spring or shock ( a coil over would be great) this would all go away. another question and i cant answer it myself i have never delt with IRS before, can we adjust pinion angle? that would help alot. well, let me know what you all think. :burnout:
 

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GTO doctor
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I've gotten some serious wheel hop out of this car whether I launch it at 2k or 4k. Even get it shifting into 2nd. Once I have the funds, I'm going to do the BMR subframe connectors, the Harrop diff cover, and maybe the SLP suspension arms. That should help eliminate any wheel hop, and it's not all that expensive.
 

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I would assume that a complete look at the suspension and tire would net some good results in regards to wheel hop. Bushings, shocks, springs, tire can be tweaked to at least minimize or almost eliminate wheel hop.

Would be nice to know how much do you have to spend and what pieces are required to make your IRS launch like a solid axle but slalom like a IRS.
 

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I like boobs.
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Poly bushings in the rear would help a lot i'm sure. Once I get my hands on a new GTO, i'm going to take some measurements and see if I can get a friend who is a fabricator to make me a little something he makes for high horsepower FWD cars which have the same problem. Basicly it keeps the wheels from 'hopping' while under hard load but doesnt modify the normal suspension functions.
 

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drburns said:
I've gotten some serious wheel hop out of this car whether I launch it at 2k or 4k. Even get it shifting into 2nd. Once I have the funds, I'm going to do the BMR subframe connectors, the Harrop diff cover, and maybe the SLP suspension arms. That should help eliminate any wheel hop, and it's not all that expensive.
SLP suspension arms? Where are these available at, don't see them on SLP's website?
 

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2k is too low, i get wheel hop too; just dump the clutch a little higher, like 3k, and it takes off and just burns
 

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wheel hop tamer
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271 Posts
ive never gotten any wheel hop... maybe a running design change to the later cars? Mine does seem to be stiffer in the A$$ than the dealers demo that he has had for almost a year, mine Just arrived 3 weeks ago ???
 

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I like boobs.
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Ya know, the BMR GTO doesnt have any wheel hop and they are running 10.5's. Someone should give them a ring and ask what the trick is. (Or at least the best inexpensive, streetable solution.)
 

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Puppy Power!!
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Discussion Starter #14
These probably help (from their sig)
BMR Subframe Connectors, Rear Swaybar, HD Driveshaft and Safety Loop, 300M CV and Stub axles, Custom QA1 shocks
 

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THE ROKET WAS SOLD ON 6/22/14
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The dealer fixed my wheel hop under warrantee. I told them I hear a noise from the rear when accelerating hard and that the right rear wheel feels like its jumping. They installed 2 Rear Insulators pn# 1674 WG94, 2 pn# 90447991 Retainers and
2 pn# 92038482 bolts to the right rear strut tower. This took care of the problem, NO hop at all under any RPM Clutch Dump.:burnout:

The left rear tower already has the parts in for the extra weight and movement from the exhust pipes exiting on that side.

ROK
 

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I have the Harrop Diff cover which actually helped a lot. It changes the rear mount to 2 points in stead of one. This with a set of springs may do a nice job.
 

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NASCAR-A-HOLIC
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Anyone out there know if both wheels should be turning when you light 'em up. I only seem to be getting one mark when the rare occation comes up that I do this. Thought even limited slip got both tires going under those conditions. Need to wear tires out to justify getting new ones to significant other.
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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gordo24fan said:
Anyone out there know if both wheels should be turning when you light 'em up. I only seem to be getting one mark when the rare occation comes up that I do this. Thought even limited slip got both tires going under those conditions. Need to wear tires out to justify getting new ones to significant other.
yes both should be turning
 

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DAAAT'S RIGHT
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1,650 Posts
My wheel hop is the worst on the 1-2 shift. I have some SLP bushings siting in the garage with some SFC's. I guess I need to get off my lazy butt and put them in so I can see if they help out.
 

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peeeel'n
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434 Posts
Wheel hop after insulator fix

Greetings,

I have had the insulator replacement but still encounter hop. As some others have mentioned, driving technique is a big factor. My experience has been if the clutch is released sharply, regardless of rpm, wheel hop is likely. A smooth clutch release with smooth additional power gives better results, but not always.

But...we shouldn't have to worry about technique.

My question is this: I have read a post that states the Harrop diff cover helps solve the problem. Has anyone tried just a drive shaft replacement? Getting rid of the rubber mounted 2 piece unit would have to help, but would it help as much as the Harrop cover?
 
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