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GR-RRR!
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Discussion Starter #1
It seems over the years that when I really, REALLY want to lay down a good coat of paint something always goes sideways. My prep is good, my use of quality paints is there, the weather typically cooperates but something always seems to go wrong. Once when I was painting the folding rear seat panels for the wagon, I laid down an absolutely beautiful coat of paint so I left the piece in the middle of the garage floor to dry and closed up the shop. When I came back later I found a paper towel had fallen off a cabinet and stuck to the still wet paint. Or other times where I find that my primer and top coat aren't compatible for some reason and it all wrinkles up or I just try to go too fast and lay the paint down too thick and get runs or sags. Sometimes my own damn fault, sometimes just plain bad luck.

So, as you can imagine I was hesitant to jump in and try to repair a deep scratch and a tiny bit of curb rash on one of my 18s. I COULD just buy a new set of 18s I found (they were take offs from 2006) or pay a professional to do the repair ($100 a wheel) or I could just try it myself. But buoyed with the recent success of cleaning up and repainting a set of 17s for my future drag radials and having been impressed with the paint I chose and how dead on of a match it was to the original wheel paint, I decided to give it a try. I even managed to successfully do a bit of spot putty to address the curb rash and fill in the deep paint scratches. Then the primer went down well. Then I really showed patience and laid down the paint with two very light coats and then one medium wet coat and it turned out really well. I think the hardest part was finding and applying some tape that would actually stick to the tire and then getting sufficient paint on the very outer edge of the rim. I used Gorilla Tape to mask up to the rim and then painters tape to mask off the rest of the sidewall (the painters tape would only stick to the Gorilla Tape).

Sorry, no before picture.

505058


505059
 

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2006 GTO C.G.M. 6 spd., h-pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSS 1000 1 pc. Driveshaft
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160 Posts
Fantastic job sir. May i ask what paint you used.
 

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GR-RRR!
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Discussion Starter #3
Dupli-Color Silver. Other parts of the label call it Hyper Silver. Part number HWP101. It is listed as gloss, but it lays down as kind of a semi-gloss, very, very close to the gloss quality of the OEM wheel paint. The color is so close to OEM I am impressed. I was originally just going to paint the one spoke that had the scratch and rash, but I decided to paint the whole wheel just so the color and gloss would be uniform across the whole wheel.

My 17s turned out nice too.

 

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GR-RRR!
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Discussion Starter #5
I'm still tempted to buy those OEM 18s that were takeoffs in 2006 and with caps. They are basically NOS. Only $850 to my door. I don't NEED them but they'd be great to have tucked away.
 

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GR-RRR!
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Discussion Starter #6
Beautiful! Did you lay down a clear coat?
No. The original paint did not have a clear over it and all I had available to me is a gloss clear which I thought would make the wheels too glossy. This silver lays down nice and when cured is not smudgy like some silvers can be. I will say this, the paint remains fairly fragile for a day or two but once fully cured seems to be sufficiently hard.

I will also add, and this is pretty obvious, but it would be better to do such refinishing with the tires off.
 

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The original paint on 18’s did/does have clear. The only wheels that came without a clear coat were 17” wheels from 04.
 

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Nice job, pic's and write up
 

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GR-RRR!
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Nice job, pic's and write up
Well, the only pictures I have are already posted above. The write up would consist of using spot putty to to fill the deep scratch (all the way through the paint, not into the metal) in two spots and filling a tiny bit of road rash on the rim. Once the putty dried I sanded the scratches smooth and then sanded to shape the arear where the rash was filled in. Took me two tries there. I started with 220 to get the spots roughed into shape and finished with 1000 and then scuffed the whole wheel with 1000. I then wiped it all down with paint prep and masked off the tire. Then I shot a VERY light coat of Dupli-Color high fill primer. The rash spot had a slight imperfection shown by the primer so that was sanded smooth with 1000. The primer was left to cure about 45 minutes. One quick wipe down and then I applied a mist coat of silver, waited 10 minutes and applied another mist coat of silver. After about another 15 minutes I put on a medium wet coat of silver and left it to cure over night. All I did was remove the masking, didn't touch it otherwise while it dried and cured.

The original paint on 18’s did/does have clear. The only wheels that came without a clear coat were 17” wheels from 04.
Then what clear would work? Most clears are either high gloss or satin and neither would be correct to match the original look. And would it be safe to shoot over already cured paint?
 

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Well, if it matches to your liking, then just leave them alone. Clear obviously will make them more resistant to the elements and easier to clean though.

Also, no, you don’t want to clear over fully cured paint unless you first scuff up the finish.
 

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R.I.P PMD
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Hey Rich - Great job & thorough instructions as well! Nice work -
 

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Well, if it matches to your liking, then just leave them alone. Clear obviously will make them more resistant to the elements and easier to clean though.

Also, no, you don’t want to clear over fully cured paint unless you first scuff up the finish.
I have ruined painted wheels by using tire/wheel cleaner at the local carwash.

I would 2k urethane clear them if you can.
 

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GR-RRR!
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
After the wheel cured overnight and I took the wheel to the shop to put it back on, the "new" wheel looks noticeably duller than the originals. I will need to get some clear on them. I have some polyurethane clear lying around that isn't super glossy if laid down lightly. BUT, the wheel paint can says to wait 7 days before painting clear over the silver, so I'll have to wait until next Friday to finish this job.
 

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Eastwood sells a clear that is two part in a spray can. It is worlds better than any 1 part spray can clear. Might be worth a look for the best long term solution.
 

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GR-RRR!
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Discussion Starter #17
The clear I have is also a Dupli-Color product designed to work with their wheel paint and as such I know it will be compatible with the silver I shot. If the can lasts, I'll paint the 17s with clear as well.
 

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Freedom Fighter
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The clear I have is also a Dupli-Color product designed to work with their wheel paint and as such I know it will be compatible with the silver I shot. If the can lasts, I'll paint the 17s with clear as well.
I also suggest the 2k clear. I did the whole paint job with etching primer, fill primer, paint and simple 1 part clear. When I got new tires, it flakes off so easy and destroyed my job. Maybe it was a shitty tire tech, but the 2k clear is much more durable. The rustoleum clear I used is highly rated but it didn't do shit for durability. The 2K clear I used to fix the paint on my fender is holding up much better.

This is the stuff not to use:


Also check out these reviews. They are mixed on the clear.

 
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